Some concerns about strut mount re-installation (center nut)
 

Tonight, I removed the Weltmeister strut camber bar the PO installed.
I did this with the front wheels jacked in the air.

http://i66.tinypic.com/242g36r.jpg

I have a question about reinstalling that center nut correctly.
One the passenger side, I was able to tighten the center nut until the strut bushing started twisting.
The center nut appeared snug, and the green shock sleeve was not dangling anymore.

However, on the driver's side, the center nut just kept spinning, and I could not get it to snug down.
In the wheel well, the green shock sleeve was still a little loose and would "clang" against the shock if I pushed it.
I tried to grab the shock, but the green shock housing was not spinning. It felt like something inside the shock was spinning.
So, I got my impact gun and tightened the center nut. However, I'm afraid I may have overtightened it.
So, I tried to remove the center nut with the impact, and it just spun around inside.
So, it's like the center nut can't come off now, because there is nothing to grab onto.
This was the side that did not have the lock tab washer, actually.

Can someone explain to me what is happening, and if this is going to be a problem?
I will need to remove that nut to install the large cup washer, once it arrives.
Should this have been done with the wheels up or down ?
What was the correct method of tightening the nut?

http://i67.tinypic.com/2hchqw8.jpg

I'm pretty sure a few things are missing.
Anyone have a photo of what their strut mount looks like ?

Large round washer for the center nut is gone, correct? (90134162900)
On one side, the "tab lock washer" is missing. (90003800201)
The smaller "one bore pressure plate" is missing. (91150193400)

Yes, your missing a few things, I assume the strut brace had them incorporated in to it. To get safely back on the road I'd reinstall the brace. You probably know this but if you loosened all three of the strut bolts your going to lose your camber and caster setting. It looks like the PO hacked up the strut opening and made it bigger, prob so he could get more negative camber up front. Safety note: If you remove that last allen head bolt shown in your photo and the wheel is off the ground, the whole wheel/brake/hub assembly is coming down to the ground quickly.

I have the big washer that came off mine when I upgraded to ER mono-balls, your welcome to them but I don't have the the "one bore pressure plate".

The reason the threaded stud of the strut is spinning is because it is the shock shaft. You may have a bit better luck tightening it when its on the ground as the compression of the strut will add a little resistance to it. The key to tightening it is using the keyed Bilstein wrench that goes over the threaded stud and keeps it from spinning. You can try and use a sturdy flat head screwdriver slotted in to it and wedged up against a body panel to try to keep it from spinning.

Here's a couple photos that might help. One is from before I took mine out with the sealant still on and one after showing the front pressure plate your missing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451021953.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451021979.jpg

to tighten the big nut use an impact, or you can try to hold that tabbed washer.
i have an electric impact from hf, works good

http://i60.tinypic.com/xc9o4w.jpg

BFT, #2 was never loosened, and I'm pretty sure the strut mount never moved.
Here is what I did:

Make sure #2 is tight.
Loosen #6 (on both sides)
Twist bar
Remove #1 and #4 and #3
Remove bar.
Reinstall #1 and #4 and #3

If you tried to use a screwdriver to hold the stud from moving, how does it not interfere with the socket you put over the nut ?
I guess you supposed to use a wrench, not a socket?

The shock shaft has a slot and the big cupped washer has a tab that goes in the slot. If that tab is still there, grab the edge of the washer with a pair of channel-locks to keep it from turning as you turn the nut. The car should be on the ground when you do this.

As you have guessed, you've now worked your way into a corner. Without the tabbed washer, you really don't have many options. You might try decreasing the friction of the nut, by heating it (try to avoid heating the shaft) and soaking it in Kroil, or a similar oil. If you get the friction low enough, maybe the impact could remove the nut.

You can always remove the whole strut and take it to a shop and have them screw with it.

JR

Does this seem viable?
Get a 21mm box wrench onto the nut and then try to wedge a chisel into the notch to secure the stud from rotating?

It's worth a try. Soak the hell out of it with Kroil first.

JR

Thanks to BFT, Javadog, and Scott for talking me through this one.

After dribbling on some Kroil, I was able to get the nut loose with a sudden jerk of a 22mm wrench.
Maybe the wrench is better than an impact, or maybe some friction developed after sitting overnight.

http://i67.tinypic.com/a4pobl.jpg

After some searching, it seems this is a common issue with Koni/Bils. struts.
Some suggested using a spark plug socket and an allen key for the notch.
I'm not sure I get how you'd use an allen key to prevent the stud from rotating.

People invent all sorts of goofy work-arounds to perform a task they don't have the correct tool for.

Buy the correct tool to hold the large washer. If nothing else, you can use a motorcycle shock wrench of the correct size.

JR

Any idea where to get the lock washers for the strut tops? Seem hard to get...

Not hard to get. This one?

Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

Nevermind, this applies to a different style of strut top,
that has an allen key on the top of the stud.
http://i65.tinypic.com/42t1h.jpg

Thanks! Searched and couldn't find it.

Bo

The rear shocks have a allen key top as well.

I tried to torque the center nut down, but it's not easy holding that outer slot from moving.
I will try again tomorrow. I wish I had a 5 foot screwdriver, to wedge it against the other side of the car. Hmm, sort of like the strut bar, ha.

For anyone without the Bentley, it says the center nut gets 58lbs. and the 3 smaller allen bolts get 34lbs. torque.

It is a bear.
I've always marked the nut's position with a marker and counted the exposed threads above the nut. Then used an impact wrench to remove and return to the same location. Once you get it right, try that in the future.

What IS the correct tool to hold the large washer?