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78sc's Avatar
 
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Tie rod castle nut

Hi guys, The new tie rod ends I ordered don't have a hole for the castle nut pin. They came with one of those 'squished' lock nuts.

Guess that's ok?


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Phil
1978 911 SC
Old 04-08-2016, 12:54 PM
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Probably so...you could always double-nut it if you wanted to
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:55 PM
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Is that the same size on the tapered shaft? The new one looks larger diameter.
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Old 04-08-2016, 03:37 PM
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Is that a Lemforder tie rod end? If not, I would consider purchasing that brand for your application. A lot of crap-a$$ knockoffs that have you crying miles down the road.
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Old 04-08-2016, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by universeman View Post
Probably so...you could always double-nut it if you wanted to
That's not a bad idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Targalid View Post
Is that the same size on the tapered shaft? The new one looks larger diameter.
Same size. I just measured it with a caliper. Must be the camera angle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub View Post
Is that a Lemforder tie rod end? If not, I would consider purchasing that brand for your application. A lot of crap-a$$ knockoffs that have you crying miles down the road.
Yes, it's a Lemforder. Seems like it's well built, just doesn't come with castle nuts anymore I guess.

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Phil
1978 911 SC
Old 04-08-2016, 04:19 PM
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tie rod

Hi ,no need to double nut , these are fine ,will never
come off, torque to 33ft pd.
Old 04-08-2016, 05:35 PM
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My new tie rods came with one old style and one new style with the lock nut rather than castle nut and cotter pin. Called our host, host reached out to the manufacturer, and they said this is the new style.

When I tried to install the new style, as soon as the nut bit into the threads both the nut and stud/ball turned, not allowing me to torque it up. Called our host back, and the guy I talked to said to push up on the bottom of the tie rod to push the taper tighter into the strut. I ended up using a floor jack. Worked like a champ. Great advice from the person I talked to!
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:16 PM
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I used a clamp to clamp it up and tighten it. I also put some liquid lock tight
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxnofx View Post
My new tie rods came with one old style and one new style with the lock nut rather than castle nut and cotter pin. Called our host, host reached out to the manufacturer, and they said this is the new style.

When I tried to install the new style, as soon as the nut bit into the threads both the nut and stud/ball turned, not allowing me to torque it up. Called our host back, and the guy I talked to said to push up on the bottom of the tie rod to push the taper tighter into the strut. I ended up using a floor jack. Worked like a champ. Great advice from the person I talked to!
Thanks for passing on your experience. Much appreciated!
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Phil
1978 911 SC
Old 04-09-2016, 05:04 AM
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That style actually works better as you don't have to fiddle with torque vs. hole alignment. Also, never use locktite on a nylock nut. The locktite eats the insert weakening the whole purpose of the nut.
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxnofx View Post
My new tie rods came with one old style and one new style with the lock nut rather than castle nut and cotter pin.
Mine came that way too and just put them on. So far so good and not losing any sleep over it.
Old 04-09-2016, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlrj View Post
Mine came that way too and just put them on. So far so good and not losing any sleep over it.
Good to know, thanks.

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1978 911 SC
Old 04-09-2016, 05:28 PM
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