Securing engine yoke with Stomski hardware.

[targasc1980]

I'm a little confused trying to use the Stomski yoke securing nuts to mount the engine yoke to the engine. First, the size of the spacers included seem to indicate that the yoke should be secured to the passenger side of the engine, but the heat exchanger is in the way there. But then on the left side, the spacers don't really fit. Then, once I have that figured out, how am I supposed to apply any meaningful amount of torque to the nuts? Apologies for cluelessness.

[JJ 911SC]

Are you using the P201 Engine Yoke?

[JJ 911SC]

Help for Engine Yoke Installation

[targasc1980]

I'm using this very similar mount made by vwalley... I think I can figure the spacers out and all but my biggest question is how to torque the Stomski nuts down being that they're obviously not made for a wrench.

New Lower Price Porsche 911 VW 5 Arm Engine Stand Yoke "The Original" | eBay

[JJ 911SC]

Large fingers thigh, I only used the Stomski nuts on a P201 which has a lip where the engine flange rest on thus the the Stomski nut only hold the flange in the recess and the weight of the engine is supported by that lip.

I not sure I would used the Stomski nuts on a flat flange mount, hopefully someone that did will pipe in.

[gomezoneill]

That engine yoke is junk spend the money buy the p201 it's worth it. The p201 holds the case so it won't warp the ebay product has to be moved from one side to the other because you have to remove the oil cooler for the proper position of the yoke to disassemble the engine. A real pain.

[gtc]

You don't need to torque down the nuts. Finger tight is fine.

[bigel]

I have to agree with gomez...you'd be much better off going with a true P201, or even a good reproduction.

I've included a link to a post where I describe how several of us (Pelicans) got together to leverage our purchasing power to lower the price of a darn fine aftermarket engine yoke.

WTB: P201 not eBay Version

$158 bucks is little cost for piece of mind when your $8k engine is hanging in the air.

...I relinquish the balance of my time to the distinguished gentleman from...

[VFR750]

I tried the stomski and after seeing the engine case pulling away from the p201 tool I concluded I was not going to use them. Full engine weight rotated 90 degrees clockwise, RHS cylinders down, is where the studs are working the hardest. I was not comfortable

I got some sockets as spacers and used the nuts and washers from the engine/transmission joint and torqued them to the factory spec. Engine cases stayed nice and tight against the yoke.

[JJ 911SC]

I use mine for 3 months straight with no problem or having to re-finger torque them.

For the OP, prior to getting the P201 (used one that was not advertised) I had got the one from e-bay which I never used and sold it to someone who has a shop.

[0396]

As some have mentioned, buy a real p201 vs a of the copies. Some knock off are better than others. My thoughts are, if it costs another say $175...why chance it. I've read that some copies you have to take the engine off the stand so you have access to the oil cooler. I just bought a new five arm Baum for my Vram vs using the four arm...my thoughts, I hate to have my Vram fall of the p201....I don't think it will, but....

[Drbraunsr]

Posting a few pictures of the Stomski adapters assembled onto my 80 3.0
I looked and never found pictures that showed them installed. I had to scratch my head for a few minutes to find the P201 (good one) had interference to the crossover pipe - I was surprised since this purchase was from our host. Plenty of "meat" so a few minutes of widening the indent and the yoke snugged up next to the case quite nicely.
The Stomski nuts and spacers and washers all slide inside of each other about 1/8"
The top set used the one short adapter with the nut and washer - and the bottom set was the nut/washer only. I never used the longer adapter.
Hope these pics help

[john walker's workshop]

Finger tight just doesn't seem right to me. Spacers made from steel tube, washers and nuts are better. The bushing sleeves used on top of the rear shocks work well. Slice them in half for the lower stud.

[ChrisBennet]

Years ago I emailed Stomski that they should make this tool. Never heard back from them.
It's probably not for everyone but I removed the studs and use bolts to hold the engine to the P201.

[turbobrat930]

Y'all are making this way harder than it needs to be. Go to the hardware store. Find a piece of iron pipe that has the I.D. just bigger than the stud off of the back of the engine. Find the length you need once you get back home, cut with a hacksaw, chopsaw, zizz wheel, etc. Slide the pipe onto the shaft, and use the nut that you took off for the transmission. It's that simple.

Sockets usually will not work, as their bases are too thick and they come in contact with the starter ring gear teeth, which will not allow you to turn the engine over.

yes, the Stomski hardware is nice, and is great if you have it there beforehand to use, but this is just as effective.

There is also no need to torque the nuts. Hand tight and a half turn is golden. I had my 70k engine (930) with everything bolted on (turbo, huge intercooler, etc) and it was perfectly fine that way for over a month while I did some work.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by turbobrat930

Y'all are making this way harder than it needs to be. Go to the hardware store. Find a piece of iron pipe that has the I.D. just bigger than the stud off of the back of the engine. Find the length you need once you get back home, cut with a hacksaw, chopsaw, zizz wheel, etc. Slide the pipe onto the shaft, and use the nut that you took off for the transmission. It's that simple.

Sockets usually will not work, as their bases are too thick and they come in contact with the starter ring gear teeth, which will not allow you to turn the engine over.

yes, the Stomski hardware is nice, and is great if you have it there beforehand to use, but this is just as effective.

There is also no need to torque the nuts. Hand tight and a half turn is golden. I had my 70k engine (930) with everything bolted on (turbo, huge intercooler, etc) and it was perfectly fine that way for over a month while I did some work.

+1, I've done it for my first few engine drops but I succumbed to spend money on the nice Stomski hardware...

That lead to spend more money on their shift coupler which was/is an excellent buy