1987 Carrera no start no crank

[polizei]

Hey Guys,

I've read thru the no start threads, but I'm not finding situation.

A few weeks back, I began to encounter a no start issue in which I'd hear the starter clicking, but it wouldn't turn over. Today, I've installed a new transmission-to-chassis ground strap, replaced the negative cable from the battery-to-chassis and measured the battery at a 12.73 volts. Now when I turn the key to crank, I'm hearing the fuel pump run, but I'm not getting any clicking from the starter - nothing. I left the key on for 30 seconds, and the fuel pump just runs keeps running, and the starter doesn't make a sound.

I've also tried 2 different DME Relays, and nothing changes.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[Rodsrsr]

Check the yellow wire on the starter. It should be a female type spade connector and I've seen them come off more than a few times. If it slips off you got nothing.

[polizei]

Originally Posted by Rodsrsr

Check the yellow wire on the starter. It should be a female type spade connector and I've seen them come off more than a few times. If it slips off you got nothing.

Good call! It was definitely a little loose, so thank you! I pushed it down and retried. It's not cranking yet, but I'm back to a consistent click. I then remeasured voltage at the battery at 10.43 Volts. Seems low...

I pulled a plug and had my wife turn the key to crank. I'm definitely seeing spark, which I'm guessing is positive?

Any suggestions?

[DRACO A5OG]

10.43v it is a goner.

Try jumping it but you really should pull it and have it tested and/or charged. We need 12.5+v to start our car.

[sugarwood]

It seems you are ignoring the most obvious and common culprit: you need a new battery.

[ischmitz]

I agree 10.4 is low and indicates a fully discharged or even damaged battery. Charge it overnight.

Measure Vbat while the key is in START (cranking). If the starter relay works it'll connect the starter motor to the battery and that draws so much current that the voltage will sag even lower and all lights in the instrument should dim.

Often you'll hear a repeated click, click, click... - what happens is that the starter relay engages and the starter motor takes so much current so that the voltage goes even lower. That causes the relay to fall off. The voltage recovers enough to where the relay engages again and the process repeats. This is the typical sign the battery is about to deep-discharge or its internal resistance increased (due to wear) so it can't deliver the required current any longer.

You can always have the battery load-tested at the FLAPS to get a real status.

Ingo

[jlex]

Don't overdue the cranking with a bad battery or you'll be looking for a new starter...