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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 152
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Where to start 🙀🙈
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05-15-2016, 11:36 AM
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Someone has already been in there and changed out the oil return tubes. I would clean and degrease thoroughly, inspect the triangle of death, check the rockers for leaking shafts, and the oil lines for weeping/cracks. You can do all of this with the engine installed, but the next step is to drop it and reseal everything. Good luck!
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"Too much is just enough." |
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05-15-2016, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 2,354
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With the engine COLD, throw some cat treats under it. Replenish cat treats for 2 or 3 days. You'll wind up with a cleaner bottom of the engine and a greasy cat.
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05-15-2016, 03:03 PM
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Member 911 Anonymous
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+1, Wash then inspect for the source/s, Impossible to really find the source at it's current state.
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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05-15-2016, 03:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 152
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Degreased and rinsed twice.
Hopefully this sheds a little bit of light. Keep in mind. At the end of the day I put less than 300 miles on this a year. I stopped driving it because of the amount of smoke coming off the exhaust from the years of leaking. Maybe with it clean. It will still leak but not burn off the exhaust as much until it builds up again. 
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05-15-2016, 04:13 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 152
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Yellow stick with red tip shows where I saw new oil drilling immediately after rinse.
and near the front where all the smoke was being created.  
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05-15-2016, 04:16 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 23
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In the first pic, if you're pointing at the junction between the soft oil line and the hard, that crimp loosens over time. You can have it recrimped, but I just replaced mine. Pretty simple to do unless the nuts are seized. Which one of mine was (the one you're pointing at) I spent a couple of hours trying all the usual tricks and ended up just cutting the nut with a dremel. That part took a couple of minutes. No more oil dropping on my heat exchangers or burning smell. Well worth the effort.
Not sure about the front, no doubt someone else will chime in ... |
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05-15-2016, 04:26 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 152
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Thank you Simon. I wish it were that easy. If you look closely behind the crimp where the rep tip shows. The oil is dripping down between the lower valve cover and another metal piece. Wondering if it is leaking from the edge of the lower valve cover.
Quote:
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05-15-2016, 04:29 PM
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Registered
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Why not just replace the 4 valve covers? Or at least the bottom 2?
Cheap and easy task. $40 for the kit.
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1986 Bosch Icon Wipers coupe. |
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05-15-2016, 05:06 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 23
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Yup, you're most likely looking at new valve cover gaskets, once again not a big job.
If you're really frustrated with the leaks, and there are a few. It might be worth doing a partial (or even full) engine drop. The leaks can be hard to trace and it can end up being a bit of a process of elimination. Wash it down, fix the simplest or most obvious, wash it down, fix the next. I eventually got all mine, but it took me a few weekends. |
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05-15-2016, 05:12 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
Posts: 8,492
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In the first picture the red tip is on the chain box. That could be indicative of a cam seal leaking
The second is possibly the thermostat oil seal or the idiot light switch leaking and dripping down. On a 3.2, pull the air cleaner and airflow sensor and you can see there with a mirror. Clean the area well because opening either is straight into the main oil galleys None of the fixes are expensive except the cam seal and that's not bad if you think of the sequence that needs to be taken. Bruce |
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05-15-2016, 05:29 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 152
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I have the gasket kit. So I will likely start with that. I know it is in need of a rebuild. But it's not in the budget and not for the 100 or so miles I drive per year.
Started it up to see if less smoky and smelly. Looked under while running. It wasn't oil burning off the exchangers. There is smoke/exhaust coming from where heat exchangers and other pipes (headers) meet. Sorry about terminology. 
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05-15-2016, 06:40 PM
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Still here
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I would change the oil to Porsche classic and take it out for a couple long hard drives for a few weeks.
See if the leaks slow down. |
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05-15-2016, 06:48 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cucamonga
Posts: 666
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Very strong chance it's the internal thermostat on top the engine. The "Triangle of Death" as mentioned above. Not a big deal. I did all three. Thought it was the on-engine oil cooler. Wasn't. Turned out to be the T-stat. Easy on a 3,2.
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05-15-2016, 07:08 PM
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Registered User
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So you dont dig too much, and everything at this point betters your car anyways... Id say ditch those Oil Return Tubes, and go OEM collapse type, Valve Cover Gaskets while your in there do the valve adjustment.. Next i would suggest "Carrera Tensioner Kit", do the "Front Pulley Seal" while your in there, and "Cam Seals..
I would also agree with MREID and just pull it and seal it. Saves alot of time especially if the rear main seal and or the tower area is seeping.. |
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05-15-2016, 08:47 PM
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