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Fuchs Lug Nuts
Getting ready to replace Turbo Twist wheels on my 911sc with Fuchs my son just refinished for me. Would appreciate help on using the correct lug nuts. Current lug nuts on turbo twist wheels are very light-weight black closed-end lug nuts. Will they work or do I need to buy different lug nuts for the Fuchs? One more piece of info -- I'm told my Fuchs are turbo wheels as identified by the area where the lug nuts seat (counter sunk). Does THIS fact dictate different lug nuts?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458874424.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458874448.jpg |
This is what my '86 came with
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/gr...1/whl018_2.jpg |
Your Fuchs should have 9x16 stamped on the inside.
This would mean they are "turbo" fuchs. They do not need different lug nuts than "regular" Fuchs. |
The black closed end lugs are factory aluminum lug nuts. They will have a ball seat as opposed to conical that
Most other makers use. They will work with your fuchs. |
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As a side note. When I was is Porsche training back in the 80's..a classmate stated the lug nuts on a 911 were aluminum. They were quickly corrected by the instructor and we were told the OEM Porsche 911 lug nuts are made from titanium. Aftermarket lug nuts were aluminum alloy. OEM 911 lug nuts were to be buttered up with anti-seize on the threads and torqued correctly.
Don't know the OEM lug nuts for a fact are titanium..just what I was told back in the day. |
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All oe Fuchs come w/ 14mm, ball seat, closed face, Aluminum lug nuts.
These come in black oe, there are also aftermarket aluminum versions in black, polished and chrome There are also aftermarket steel open face mostly used on track cars and there are also aftermarket Titanium, both open and closed face. |
Thanks folks....love the forum......great info as usual. Appears lug nuts I'm currently using on turbo twists will work fine with the Fuchs. Thanks again.
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Read the threads on broken alloy nuts, you will switch to open faced steel, ricky tick!
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meh, there is no epidemic of Al lugs breaking. No doubt there have been aftermarket lugs made from wrong alloy, but factory Al alloy lugs perform quite well. --and there are a LOT of those in service.
Oh, and you can certainly over torque any fastener to failure. The biggest loads, on the fastener, come from torqueing them on. |
Or you could go with these Titanium gems custom made by Mr. Jim Tidwell in San Diego (jtidwell@speakeasy.net). He makes other custom factory option parts as well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459011986.jpg |
His recommended lubrication...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459014006.jpg |
You are going to love how this car looks when you get those on!
I use a battery male terminal cleaner inside the lugs to clean the threads, brass brush on the stud threads, and a good jet of air. Check no burrs on the round lug section and a nice smooth surface to mate/twist on. Secret of any good torque is twice, in criss-cross. Get the wheel set square on first torque then hike it to the final spec. |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459179465.jpg
The biggest issue w/ aluminum is that it is soft, no matter how careful you are the shoulders get munged, Al. closed end, these were new 2 years ago http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459179479.jpg steel is heaviest and rusts unless painted steel open ended http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459179509.jpg Ti open ended are lighter than aluminum close ended but are a bit pricey Ti. open ended http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459179494.jpg |
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I am a racer and I would never waste money on titanium lug nuts......
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your opinion here is as valued as much as most of your others |
Okay, Bill. None of the racers I know use titanium lug bolts or lug nuts. Steel is MUCH cheaper and is a better choice in most cases. Why? Just as strong and with less galling and less likelihood of galvanic corrosion. It's just not worth the weight savings.
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Just going by the pictures, 1st and 3rd above, aluminum and Ti seem to weigh the same.?
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Bill,
Do you need to have open lug nuts for DE? If required - or if you just WANT open lug nuts, what material is allowable - steel, titanium, or aluminum? thanks! angela |
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In Club racing there is a specific requirement from the 2016 PCA Club racing Rule book "Lugnuts must be steel with engagement at least equal to the diameter of the wheel lug studs" |
The best reason for titanium lug nuts is the "coolness" factor if that is important to you. The weight saving is inconsequential.
Titanium lug nuts aren't a great choice for racing for several factors which include notch sensitivity and galling. You would want to replace these lug nuts on a regular basis. Far more often they you would replace steel lug nuts. If you have a large budget for racing and can afford to replace the Ti lug nuts often, I guess they aren't a bad choice to save a small amount of rotating weight. For street use, you can add galvanic corrosion to the list of potential problems. For the street, I would prefer the stock aluminum nuts and for the track I would use steel. |
Oh, and the galling issue is not just related to the Ti nut themselves. The galling damages the studs as well. So you might need to replace the studs more often too.
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Here is what I use on the race car:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459205515.jpg They are hardened steel racing lug nuts with a black oxide finish. I bought these from: Track-Studs.com - Racing Wheel Studs and Lug Nuts, Competition Grade — Track-Studs.com |
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