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Registered User
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New Clutch now I have Tach and Up Shift Light Issues
I just had my clutch replaced on my 88 911 cab and when I picked up the car my tach and upshift light are having issues. The up shift light always worked perfectly, the light was bright and worked just like it was supposed to. On the way home the light started to flicker instead of a nice steady light, by the time I got home (30 miles) it would only blink. A day later it barely flashes and it comes on when it shouldn't and even came on in fifth gear. The tach is working as it should most of the time but it stays at about 2000 when the clutch is pushed in while preparing to stop. After about 20 seconds it drops down to the correct engine rpm. It will also bounce once in a while. I called the mechanic and he said to check the wires at the #1 manifold intake which I did they are tight and look to be clean. He said if the main ground from the tranny to body was loose it probably wouldn't start or crank slowly, the car seems to crank and start like it did before the new clutch so I haven't checked it yet. There are no other electrical issues that I have noticed so far. Any suggestions? Thanks
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Brew Master
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I think I'd verify ALL ground points then look for the black/violet (I think that's the color combo) in the trunk that is the signal for the tach and make sure it's making good contact. I had some weird tach problems after removing and re installing my engine and it wound up being a loose connection in the trunk which is weird since I hadn't touched anything up there.
Here's my thread on my tach problem. It might be helpful.. might not be Tach not working after engine drop an install Last edited by cabmandone; 04-19-2016 at 04:40 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Troy, Mi
Posts: 1,937
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1st stab in the dark guess is the ground strap to the trans.
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Matt - 84 Carrera |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: North Bay, ON
Posts: 472
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Similar issues after engine/trans install was a loose trans ground strap. Looked ok, but the nut on the body end was only finger tight. Cleaned and tightened, and all was well again.
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1986 3.2 to 3.4 conversion |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
Posts: 8,497
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Both of those items run off the flat clear 3 or 4 wire connector in the trunk. Open it and check for sulfating on the connectors. The power for your fuel pump relay. Runs through that connector too.
Bruce |
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Registered User
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Thanks guys I'll check the tranny ground strap and look in the trunk at all the wires mentioned
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Registered User
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I checked everything under the trunk and everything looked really good but I did clean and tighten the battery cables just incase. So I jacked it up and climbed under it, the tranny ground cable was only hand tight. I tightened the bolt almost a full turn. I took it for a short drive and everything is working like it should. Kind of surprising the shop would forget to get that bolt tight as its like the main ground. Anyway thanks for the suggestions to all.
On a side note I had the old rubber disc clutch in there and I like the new spring loaded one, he thought the old one may have been the original with 100k miles on it? The car still had the original T/O bearing and fork which he also replaced, he said he hadn't seen any of those for 15 years or more. |
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Registered
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Quote:
Tell your mechanic my '88 is running with the original old rubber clutch disc as well. As it only has 35,000 miles on it, maybe it'll last a bit longer. ![]()
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'88 Carrera Guards Red '70 VW Beetle Yukon Yellow ![]() |
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Registered User
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[QUOTE= Did he say there was any appreciable wear on that clutch fork?[/QUOTE]
He showed it to me and there was some wear on it but I think with a little clean up it would have been fine for many more miles. Better safe then sorry though, for a few hundred bucks I think its the way to go as long as you are in there. The clutch does seem a little smoother and easier to press. The prior disc was not slipping but the rubber had started to come apart and a couple of times I couldn't get it in gear without pulling over. |
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