1982 911 sc Transmission Question

[moore49]

I inquired about this a while back. I tried all the ideas that I could. My car will not go into 1st gear. (makes a grinding noise.) It has 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and reverse. Here is what I have tried:

1. Changed out bushings in the shifter assembly, shifter rod bushing, and rear coupling bushings.

2. Adjusted the linkage numerous ways and was able to get it to go into first gear once. But none of the other gears would work?

3. I adjusted everything back to the previous setting to get 2,3,4,R gears back.

4. I then manually found first gear without hooking the shifter linkage up. (using the shifter shaft that the coupling hooks to.) This worked. I then hooked the coupling up and lost 2,3,4,5,and R. But 1st gear worked!

Any further Suggestions before we have to drop the engine and go inside the transmission? Also the car will not go into first when not running either.

Thanks!

[BSNMOE]

pull up the rubber boot to expose the lever. Then lay the lever against the shift housing between 1st and 2nd plane. do this with the 13mm nut loose on the adj band. then rotate or twist the shaft in tranny to the right. then tighten it up.

[universeman]

Seems to me that if it will go into 1st, but not 2-5, or will go into 2-5 but not 1st, you have an adjustment problem and nothing more. Before tearing into the tranny, I'd follow BSNMOE's advice and keep fiddling with it until you find the adjustment that allows you to select all gears. Then - DON'T TOUCH IT AGAIN!

[Discseven]

^^ ditto

[strictly]

if when you disconnect the UJ coupling from the trans shaft, and you can manually select all gears, then the trans/gearbox should be fine. Looking towards the rear of the car (over your shoulder), 1st and second are anti clockwise, and fifth and reverse are clockwise.

A basic setting is check all gears work, then put trans into nutral and turn it anti clock (looking over your shoulder, i.e to the right), then your shift lever push it LEFT to it hits the stop (1st/2nd plane), BUT make sure its vertical (the bit before the bend). nip the bolt up, and try all gears, should all be there, when you go into 5th, you need some play at the coupling, just a hair. If its not there, redo above, but bring the trans a hair off anti clock towards clockwise, go to far, and you'll lose fifth, but just a hair should give you some
play

If you can select all gears with the engine off, but not with the engine on, its the clutch.

making sure the lever is vertical is really important, its so you have the same amount of distance for all gear selection.

if you can get all gears with the linkage connected, but not with the coupling connected, and adjusted as above, then there is something going on with your shifter/linkage

p.s im in the UK too

p.p.s can anyone explain why you need some play in 5th at the coupling with it all adjusted? its what the books say, and im curious. For my 73, I can only get just a tiny feel of any play, where as my old sc, probally had a few mm. My cluctch is shot, and im pulling the engine tomorrow, but i thought i would check the linkage first

[ganun]

"p.p.s can anyone explain why you need some play in 5th at the coupling with it all adjusted? its what the books say, and im curious. "
There are a stack of tolerances between the shift lever and the shifter fork and syncro slider, and all must be centered when in gear to avoid a preload and wear. At the shift rod going into the tranny there are spring loaded detents, when in a gear, the detent must be fully engaged, then the fork must be centered on the slider when in the slider is fully engaged in a gear also to avoid wear. Otherwise is like the "bad" habit of resting ones hand on the shifter and putting a load on a fork and slider.
Hope it helps.

[strictly]

Originally Posted by ganun

"p.p.s can anyone explain why you need some play in 5th at the coupling with it all adjusted? its what the books say, and im curious. "
There are a stack of tolerances between the shift lever and the shifter fork and syncro slider, and all must be centered when in gear to avoid a preload and wear. At the shift rod going into the tranny there are spring loaded detents, when in a gear, the detent must be fully engaged, then the fork must be centered on the slider when in the slider is fully engaged in a gear also to avoid wear. Otherwise is like the "bad" habit of resting ones hand on the shifter and putting a load on a fork and slider.
Hope it helps.

ah ha, okay that explains it. thanks =)

Ive yet to delve into the inner workings of a 915, when the full gravity of what you have said will be clearer to me, but thats in a not too distant future!