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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Cologne Germany
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Valve Clearances, all too tight!
Pelicans,
I am in the middle of a valve clearance check/adjustment and every single valve is adjusted too tight. I cannot get my feeler gauge in at all. (I have the 'special' gauge) I was going to start correcting them but then I thought it strange that all of them will need doing, hence this post here. I have never had to adjust every valve when working on other cars. Any of you had this before or am I over thinking this? Cheers, Jason
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1994 968CS 1977 911S 1969 MGB GT 1958 Norton Dominator |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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I would put a scope or digital scope inside the spark plug hole to see if the valves are kissing cylinders.
How long since the last adjustment?
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Is this your first 911 valve adjust?
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Formerly known as Syzygy
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Are you sure you're on the correct cylinder? What I mean is did you start out on TDC on #1? If not, that'll for make your valves tight...
And sometimes with little experience, it's tough to get the feeler in there.
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Kevin 1987 ROW coupe, Marine blue, with a couple extra goodies. The cars we love the best are the ones with human traits, warts and all. |
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I haven't done them in my ownership, which is two years, and I have no documents showing when they were last done. The upper covers were stuck solid and the old gasket material is like concrete, so I will guess that it's been at least 5-10 years?
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1994 968CS 1977 911S 1969 MGB GT 1958 Norton Dominator |
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This is my first adjust on the 911 but I have done them on other cars before. Yep, definitely at TDC and I agree that it is a ball ache to get the feelers in there.
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1994 968CS 1977 911S 1969 MGB GT 1958 Norton Dominator |
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Well, a properly adjust valve, once the feeler is removed is very difficult to put back in.
Try a smaller feeler to test if there is a gap and that you are putting it in the proper place. If you really want to verify, use a dial gauge. It is a hit and miss because it is dependent on the initial set up of the dial gauge.
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Draco, good idea. I'll give it a go in the morning. Thanks.
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Note, the Valve Adjuster SCREW will over time get sloppy, so it could be sitting lower than the actual gauge thickness, it may need a nudge up to get the feeler in.
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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non-whiner
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Leave it at TDC and check all the intake valves. If you find at least one that the feeler fits under you know you are not really at TDC on cylinder 1.
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You may be adjusting valves that have not been adjusted in some time. If your technique is good on flat sixes, then you have to assume its tightness from worn seats, right? Otherwise, your use of the L foot valve feeler gauge just needs work.
I used to adjust valves on a Honda 400/4 inline four and you always wanted to hear that sweet even clicking across the head.
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you could be 180 degrees out
the valves have just gotten tight over time you could be trying to put the feeler in the wrong place start with #1 intake. while rotating the crank, watch the rocker and the rotor. after the intake closes look for the rotor to line up "close" to the mark on the dist and for TDC to line up ON the case. wiggle the, rocker, you should feel it move a little. I think looking in the cylinder at this time is a waste of time. you have some room for a tight valve. if a valve did hit it either bent that valve or it did not. a compression/leak down would be a better check. plus it lets you know the condition of things.
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I can't speak for the experience of others but I always do all of the valves because it is such APITA to slip the feeler in without loosening. The gauge sold by our host has replacement feelers for good reason....trying to get the damn things in without loosening guarantees that I (at least) will bend or break several in the course of one servicing. Other engines I have adjusted valves on use a thicker feeler and not the "tin foil" these engines require. John can probably just wiggle the rocker and determine whether it needs adjustment or not...me, not so much LOL. Cheers
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Quote:
I just adjusted/check my valves within the last couple of weeks. They were all but one perfect, and that one was iffy but I adjusted it any way. Last valve adjustment was maybe 10K miles ago.
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How tight are they? if you grab the rocker can you move it of the valve stem slightly at all?
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Sounds like they are long over due for an adjustment. As the seats and valves wear, the clearance gets tighter. I'd adjust them.
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'78 911SC Targa (SCWDP member #17) '74 MGB (one owner) Pickup 2013 Ford Explorer Sport 2013 VW Golf TDI Last edited by morrisjm1; 05-23-2016 at 04:36 PM.. |
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Quote:
If that's wrong, let me know. But that's how cam lobes are shaped... |
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I always give my car an Italian tune the day before I do the valves. You don't want any carbon sitting on the valve seats or valves. And the engine has to be completely cold ie not started up that day.
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Interesting BD
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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I'm no expert. Everything I know I've learnt from you guys
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