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Retired in Georgia
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I've only had my '91 C4 for six weeks now, and it will soon be time to change the oil & filter.
Rumor has it I'll need a BIG and WIDE pan, about 144 quarts (grin) of oil, and maybe a new sealing washer. What is the definitive procedure? Be gentle with me; I've never "done it" with a big strapping flat six before |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Londonderry NH USA
Posts: 198
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GET A LARGE PAN. I made the mistake of using one that was too small and you will have a mess on your hands. You should have drained about 11 quarts (give or take) of oil when all is said and done. Always use new washers on the drain plugs, the dealer usually puts a few in when I buy my filters but occasionally you will have to ask for them. You can also get them at autopart stores, in a kit of different sizes. I like to use aluminum washers but sometimes I end up with copper. Copper seem to work aswell as aluminum. I would consult your owners manual for refill recomendations and capacities. Hope this helps and good luck....TargaEuro
[This message has been edited by TargaEuro (edited 10-10-2001).] |
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Robert,
You've found your seasoned veteran. I've got the pan. I've been doing my own oil changes for about 2 years. First on my 87 930 and for the last 18 months on my 94 964. I even know a trick to keep from marinating your engine compartment with oil when you remove the filter. Bring it by some Sunday and we'll have some fun. I buy my oil filters from Jim Ellis, about $9 and its the real deal. You'll need two sealing rings, one for the oil tank and one for the block (.60 ea). You can also order from Pelican if you have more time. As a matter of fact, I have an oil filter and sealing rings in the garage...always keep some around to avoid too many trips to JE. Suggest you get some Mobil 1 15w50. If you get lucky you can find it in the 5 quart jugs at Walmart for about $17. When it goes on sale, someone on this board will post. Seems they do the whole country at once. Lemme know. ------------------ Mike 94 C2 cab |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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But.... It's hell going into these god-forsaken discount joints. I had to fight off several ugly Amazonian women with varicose veins and bulldog-like jowls, just to get to where the precious oil is shelved. And then, the freaky checkout clerks looked at my cart like I was doing something illegal with all that oil. Muhahahaha! It was quite a day! But I'd do it again in a heartbeat...nothings too good for the Blue Bomber. ------------------ '81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber") Canada West Region PCA The Blue Bomber's Website "If it ain't broke...we'll help you fix it 'til it is!" |
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I just have one question. . .why do people go there to beat their children? I guess it's the next best place since all the K-Marts closed up. . .
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,473
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so mike, what's your secret to avoiding the oil filter removal flood? i've used a couple of methods but always interested in a better way.
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At least you guys don't have to go anywhere near the amish shoppers at walmarts. They must not believe in deoderant...I always wondered what they are even doing in there in the first place.
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Denver, NC
Posts: 1,391
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Go to Home Depot... in the Masonry department they have the plastic tubs for mixing mortar.... Get one to drain your oil into...
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 3,686
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I was in PepBoys last weekend and saw a big plastic pan (15 qt) for $10 or so.
Emanuel |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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------------------ '81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber") Canada West Region PCA The Blue Bomber's Website "If it ain't broke...we'll help you fix it 'til it is!" |
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 376
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Robert - - strongly advise you purchase Wayne's new "100 Projects for Your Porsche" book. It provides detailed guidance, with good photos, how to change the oil - - - Armed with the book, you won't have to sell your body to the grizzled guy!
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: western new york
Posts: 96
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i have a 91 C2.
the secret to getting the filter out without spilling that much is: above the passenger side rear wheel there is a bolt on a tube that you loosen, it is like an air valve. the filter then drains out of the oil tank plug. i use 2 pans. the 12qt. type and a smaller one. i guarantee that on your first try you will spill alot when removing the filter so get alot of rags ready. MOST IMPORTANT RECOMMENDATION: get some cold beer to drink when the engine is draining. there is nothing better than the smell of used oil and a cold beer. p.s. you do not need to use new washers. Daryl Planter ------------------ 91C2 Targa |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Tampa Bay Area, FL
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My first new car was a 1980 Mazda RX-7, and for some odd reason, they mounted the oil filter upside down, right on the side of the engine. I used to put a hole in it and drain the oil into a small cup before removing it. I plan to do the same on the 911. That limits the amount of oil spilled when the filter is removed.
------------------ Michael '78 911SC Euro |
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I got one of those giant 15qt oil drain things that holds the waste oil for transport. Big Hint: Remove the vent plug before draining the oil into it. The oil comes out of the tank with quite a bit of force, and with no way to displace the air, it started to spill over the sides. Fortunately, I also leaked oil from the filter all over the place so I was in degreasing mode anyway.
Another vote for Mobil 1 from Wall Mart. And filter and crush rings from Pelican Parts. I don't know why Daryl said you don't need new rings - Porsche says to do it, and for five bits it seems silly not to. Enjoy! Don ------------------ don@plumley.org Das Zoom - '87 Carrera |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 149
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You can drain the oil filter as suggested by Daryl, but it's a pain to reach. I've never tried it, but I imagine you'd have to remove the rear wheel (passenger side). OR you can simply puncture a small hole in the filter, which is what I do.
There are two drain plugs: one at the crankcase (horizontal plug, pretty obvious) and one at the thermostat housing. That plug is located on the passenger side near the rear wheel, below the door sill. It's literally a few inches from the side of the car. I'll try to post the torque specs for the drain plugs tonight unless someone else beats me to it. The repair manual says to add 6 quarts, start the engine, then add an additional 3 quarts (total of 9 quarts). I had to add more than 10 quarts to reach the right oil level, so I wouldn't be too concerned if you have to add more than 9. Not much too it other than trying not to make a mess (which I did my first time). Drew 92 C2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Londonderry NH USA
Posts: 198
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I just stuff a rag under the filter against the engine bay then spin the filter off quickly, turn it upright and remove it. The rag usually catches all the oil. The drips I just wipe up after and it takes any loose dirt with it so I dont mind a little oil leakage....TargaEuro
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas
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Something I have tried that seems to help is slipping a grocery bag or small trash bag over the filter after it has been loosened then spin it the rest of the way off and let the extra oil spill into the bag.
Buck 88 coupe |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,473
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we're talking C2/C4 here. there's no way you can quickly spin off the filter (like on a carrera or earlier car), and avoid the huge mess without a preliminary procedure, like punching a hole in the side/end of the filter and continuously rotating it 180° and back, to drain it into a small cup. there's other ways, but you can't "just take it off" without a penalty.
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: western new york
Posts: 96
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john, why don't you open the nut on the tube above the rear pass. wheel?
also, isn't it true that you really don't need new washers? ------------------ 91C2 Targa |
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Just changed my oil for the first time in my '92 C2 cab a couple of weeks ago. here is what i learned:
a.Its easy if you follow all the instructions, b. Use two 9 Qt oil catch pans, c. the second drain plug is in front of the passenger rear wheel, d. take the passenger rear wheel off and open the bleed bolt on the backside of the oil filter line and you will not have any oil filter mess, e. After you have overfilled the oil..do not try to drain it out faster by loosening the drain plug "just a little bit more" (turned my oil change into a 18 quart deal) f. Put the wheel back on with the lock nut and the red stud in the right positions so you don't have to go back and do it again. Here are the isntructions i used.. they are from CupCar over on the "other" 964 board. Here's my routine for oil changes on my 964: 1) Warm up car at end of day. 2) Jack up drivers side a few inches then undo the engine drain plug and drain oil into a low pan I use 12 Qt pan. Lower driver's side of car. 3) Jack up passenger side of car until rear wheel is off ground then slowly lower car back down. Suspension will not settle completely and this allows my second low oil drainage pan to fit under drainage point for the oil tank located just forward of right rear wheel. Drain tank. 4) Go to bed, let engine and tank drain overnight. 5)Come back the next morning. The oil filter-the only one- is located in engine compartment and is now completely drained and can be removed without any loss of oil. Replace filter with new one following directions on filter #930.107.764.00. 6) Replace both drain plugs using new seal rings, the engine and oil tank take the same sealing ring. Torque engine plug to 51 lb-ft and tank plug to 47 lb-ft 7)Fill engine with 6.4 Qts oil. Start engine, idle and add 3.2 more Qts oil then warm up engine and top off oil level. 8)Have fun with money saved. Total time I spend on this is ~1/2 hour. |
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