A bit of blasphemy regarding a 2.7
 

I have a 2.7L motor from 1976. I know it ran a few years ago, maybe 2 or 3, and the car was parked until I bought it last year. I pulled the motor and sent the car to the painter, and I have the motor and tranny in the garage. I don't currently have the funds to rebuild the thing , but I do want to get the motor running again so I can at least drive around a bit before I decide my direction on motors.
This motor doesn't have the Carrera tensioner upgrade, doesn't look like it's ever been opened, to be honest. No idea how many miles are on it since it wasn't original to the car. It DOES have an 11-blade fan on it, I thought motors from 1976 had 5-blade fans.
At any rate, I just want to get this motor running before I decide to rebuild either this one or go bigger. What steps can I take to see about doing that?
I placed this in the technical forum because technically this isn't an engine rebuild. Did I do wrong?

I would start with pulling top and bottom valve covers and look for broken head studs. Tim

Probably the first thing to do would be to remove the rocker covers and see if any of the head studs are broken or pulled from the case.

^^^

Now Tim, that's just freaky (and people will likely "talk" :eek:)! :D

You're good here Mick. Were I in your shoes, first thing I'd do is remove the spark plugs squirt a little oil in each cylinder... let that sit a few minutes... then turn the engine over slowly by hand to see how it felt over a few cycles. That would be my reference point as to what to do next. If anything binds, you want to discover this via a hand turn vs a startup. Given the sitting time of the car, fuel system should be flushed by default.

Not sure if you mean starting the engine while it's out of the car as it is or after reinstalling it. Certainly when it's out there are any number of things that could be attended. Wayne's book "101 Things" might be a helpful resource. Know you don't want to do rebuild now but there are a few things you can sort out in the book that are maintenance oriented with minor parts costs.

Lol, they say "good minds think alike"? Not sure that applies to us, or at least me. :eek:
Tim

Can I fix broken headstuds without a rebuild?
I have both the Anderson book and both Wayne books, I'm definitely going through the thing. I just want to be able to run the motor after it's installed so I can move the car fairly easily if I have to or take a drive around the block. I know everyone starts with the head stud problem. I'm just wanting to see if the thing will run.

I don't have the time space or tools to set up a stand the engine could be mounted on for running outside the car, sadly. would love to have one, that'd be awesome.

Somebody correct me ifin I'm wrong but he won't have broken (Dilivar) head studs in a magnesium case 2.7 as the Dilivar didn't happen until the 3.0 SC's; however, he might have head studs that have pulled out of the case itself in which situation yes, you'll have to tear it down to put case-savers inserts in the case.

Yeah, I'm expecting to find that. I hope I can get the motor running for a b it before I have the case savers and other work done.

Pulled head studs did not happen to 100% of the magnesium 2.7 engines. Yours might be fine in this regard, so cross your fingers and check. You could luck out - it's quite possible.

I sure as hell could use some good luck this year.

Mick, so you have the proper fuel (CIS/K-Jetronic, right?) and ignition systems for the 2.7? If so, then the main thing you'll probably need to do is make sure all of the CIS components are clean and in working order, in order to start/run the the engine (not an easy task if they have been sitting for a while).

Also, after you've installed the engine, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine with the starter to ensure that you have oil pressure before starting it.

Getting back to basics, if engine manually rotates easily and the gearbox is still attached to the engine, perform a compression test. If ok, you're good. Follow up by cleaning the fuel system and repairs any sources of oil leaks, adjust valve clearance, tidy up the engine externals, replace needed oil seals (rear main, oil drain tubes, etc.), inspect clutch assy., etc.).

Mick... don't rush it or you will certainly be mad at yourself later.

We all understand that you are ancy and want to drive the car.
This is normal considering that Porsche's are just awesome.

But sitting for just 6 months can cause problems. I strongly urge that you listen to the wise counsel above and put the motor/tranny back in and start from square one.

You will need to clean the entire fuel system and flush the lines. Check the fuel tank for gunk. I would really consider that you open the air box and check to see if the fuel distributor is free flowing. If not, it needs to be sent to Larry at CIS Flowtech. It would not hurt to get your WUR services and tuned at the same time.

Replace your soft lines in the engine bay that come from the supply side of the fuel pump and the return of the CIS. The injector lines should be okay.

You will also want to remove your injectors, take them to a Diesel Fuel shop and have them ultrasonically cleaned.

A new fuel pump, new spark plugs, new air filter, new fuel sending unit, new fuel accumulator are all items that I would change out after the engine turns over by hand with nothing interfering/impeding complete revolutions.

Porsche's are not cheap, but they are very rewarding once they are completely ironed out, and will provide you with many years of enjoyment when driven frequently and maintained and loved as they so rightfully deserve!

Good advice above: remove valve covers and look. Turn engine by hand to see if there are any problems. Compression check. Post the engine serial number and engine type number found on the right side of the engine near the fan housing. That it has the eleven blade fan is a very good sign. It means someone did some upgrades. You may be a lucky guy with a good engine. After 40 years those engines still running have had rebuilds or replacement. I am thinking you are lucky.

one thing to keep in mind , the studs can be pulled and look perfectly intact if you take the covers off. The issue will be they are very loose or wont take torque. Not like I would suggest torqueing them up either so its a bit tricky.

may want to put a hex in there and just make sure they aren't loose. If they are only finger tight you know to be concerned.

I'll be doing all of this, Im sure. The way my luck has been running the past few years, I am expecting everything to be worst case scenario. We shall see...
It may be a month or so before i can even start looking at this motor. Doesn't mean I can't start thinking about it. Thanks for all the advice.

Keep us posted, I'm in the same scenario as you and haven't done my recon on my engine yet either.

Ok, I'm a PP veteran and have experienced the forum chatter. Everything above is correct for the car and engine. But don't forget your goals! If engine has pulled head studs.....a rebuild is in future no matter what. It has little resale value and YET can still run and function within certa in parameters for a long time. Sure if you want a peace of mind, pull covers. BUT if it passes compression and leak down and passes a close visual inspection for blow out.....like a traditional engine blown head gasket appearance, then assume it'll run. Your not looking for a restoration it doesn't sound at this second. If already broken, worst case it's an engine drop later...4hrs.

BUT I'd oil cylinders, clean out fuel, change plugs or at least blast, turn over by hand, maybe even get a torque reading of drag, disconnect ignition b4 starter. Make a good audible and visual inspection.

I'm just kinda like if you aren't interested in fixing it, why investigate whether it's broken! Change trans fluid too!

These are just my opinions and a little devils advocate to the above ideal mechanical advise.

Good luck