Valve Cover leaks

[Dooodahman]

Cracked open the valve covers today and did my first valve adjustment. Went relatively smoothly, but even with all shims moved to the outside, there was still a lot of slipping of the belt (and then grabbing the belt and pulling while cranking the fan nut to get the crank to turn). Seemed to loosen up around the third revolution, but man was it stiff to start. Motor has been drained of oil for a while now as this work has progressed, and I left the spark plugs in per Wayne's advice - so maybe this was partly the reason? Anyway, if this is not normal, please let me know.

Also, this is what my lower valves looked like when I popped off the cover. Does this look normal? It's the first time I've ever opened them so I don't know what to look for.



I had a lot of dripping from the lower covers before I dropped the engine. About every lower nut was visibly weeping drops of oil. Now that it's open, I'm most curious about the oil around the two upper nuts in the following picture. I'm not sure how oil could have gotten up there.




If anyone knows if this is normal or a sign of an issue, please let me know.

The fun continues!!!!

[kgieg]

That is normal with old paper gaskets. I switched to silicone gaskets that our host sells and eliminated 99 percent of the leaks but you must follow the directions. You can't squish them much or they will leak. You can also use the seals on the rocker shafts to help but that is a lot of work to install.

[75 911s]

You are supposed to remove the spark plugs. From page 58 in the 101 projects book:

"You should also remove the spark plugs and replace them with new ones when you are finished"

That is the reason it was so difficult to turn.

I would also recheck your gaps and make sure that you turned 120 degrees. It's easy to tell the 120 degree positions because when you start at TDC and you rotate 90, then an additional 30 is easy to spot because there will be another mark indicated on the crank pulley, but only on the outer pulley. Obviously you will feel the gap when your rock the rocker too. Sometimes they are a bit sticky.

plus 1 on the silicone kit. BTW there are two kits, one kit has only the bottom silicon and the upper paper. It's cheaper than the fancy red ones which I think is silicone on both uppers and bottom.

I would also recommend replacing the plug aluminum washers and the washers around the cam oil feed lines if leaky.

[db_cooper]

The belt slipping when you try and turn the engine over is normal. You have to use your thumb/fingers to tension the belt when you spin the alternator nut.

The valve covers can be warped too..silicone gaskets help with that problem. Old school would get a big flat glass or marble counter top and some big sheets of emery paper..and lightly work the valve cover over till it was flat.

I use the green valve cover gaskets with the white silicone bead and a torque wrench..works fine for me.

Rick over at the Motor Works there in W/S used to do a lot of Porsche work..he may still have the big flat plate we used to smooth out valve covers.

[Dooodahman]

I tested the covers (after being thoroughly cleaned!) on my granite counter tops and they seemed flat to me, but sanding on the counter is a great tip. Thanks!

I read that if you pull the plugs you can get carbon in the valve seats - I guess there is conflicting info out there. I did two full rotations and checked each one twice. I think they were a little loose the first time around.

I have the gasket kit from our host, which has the gray uppers and green lowers (w/ silicone bead) -- so I think I'll try these first and if I get leaks, get the red ones.

So, based on the pictures, no concerns about putting the gaskets and covers back on? Anything else I should do in there before that?

[nene]

I just did my valve adjustment yesterday, (which is my third time) and I only loosen up my spark-plugs, as I am worried that if I take them out completely, something might fall in there like one of those nut washers from the valve covers. Now, in order to turn the engine, I use the "finger" method on the pulley, which always worked.

[db_cooper]

So, based on the pictures, no concerns about putting the gaskets and covers back on? Anything else I should do in there before that?

No concerns..use a torque wrench..first tighten the nuts by hand..starting in the middle and zig-zag from the inner to the outer nuts..then do it again, torque to 15 ft/lb..same deal..inside to out..zig-zag..then a final torque to 18ft/lb..zig-zag.

[sugarwood]

In the photo, can someone point out the (broken) "head studs" that sometimes fall out when you remove the valve covers?

[emac]

The long ones in pic one

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

In the photo, can someone point out the (broken) "head studs" that sometimes fall out when you remove the valve covers?

You can just see 4 of them in the first photo in the areas between the rockers.
The Allen head nuts are just visible on a couple of them.

[Dooodahman]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

In the photo, can someone point out the (broken) "head studs" that sometimes fall out when you remove the valve covers?

Sugarwood are you trying to jinx me??!?!?!!

[dicklague]

That belt technique does not work for me.

I built a special tool that reaches down to the crank nut with a ratchet head and a long handle. ONLY way to crank the engine......and do it with the plugs out.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by timmy2

You can just see 4 of them in the first photo in the areas between the rockers.
The Allen head nuts are just visible on a couple of them.

These, deep in the recess?

[T77911S]

since the engine is out it is easy to remove the plugs. I put the plug wires back in the holes to keep things out.
you don't have to remove the plugs. press the right side of the alt belt when turning, just go slow.

get the reusable valve cover gaskets. they are more but let me tell ya, they are worth it in the end. do not over tighten these gaskets, if you think they are tight enough, you over tightened them,. they should not squeeze out.
I also clean the valve cover threads with a die,

[gomezoneill]

It looks like the rocker shafts are sticking out a little too far on cylinder 4+5 can't see 6cyl. That could be the cause of the oil puddle in the area you mentioned. I've found over the years that you don't need rs seals on the shaft's if you torque them to 21 foot pounds and they will not loosen up and move either.

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

These, deep in the recess?

Yes.

[Dooodahman]

I've moved the discussion of my valve job here, to consolidate, if anyone cares to chime in on my walking rocker shafts.

Thanks!