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Window scraper installation -- what's the secret?

I'm trying to install new window scrapers. They're the ones on the outside of the door glass. They're supposed to slide into a groove in the chrome trim on the top of the door panel. I cannot figure out how to get them to slide in there. The old ones are dry and shrunken and slide back and forth easily. But the new ones are just too tight. I tried lubricating them with some silicone grease but it didn't help. I don't want to use more force else I'll tear the rubber.

What's the key to success? Thanks to all.

Steve

Old 06-15-2016, 02:16 PM
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Just keep pulling.

I used some dish soap and push in and pull along the edge. It took a couple of hours on each side.
Old 06-15-2016, 02:31 PM
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Dish soap. That's a good idea. Thanks!
Old 06-15-2016, 02:58 PM
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Just did mine. Didn't need any lube.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:36 PM
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It's a bit easier if you remove the chrome strips from the doors. They're only held on by clips. Replaced them on my '74 and it was difficult. Tried silicone but dish soap worked better.
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:09 PM
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take the aluminum off the door, you can stretch the rubber and it will get thinner, clean the track, re seal the strip to the door
Old 06-15-2016, 11:46 PM
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You don't say what year car but maybe theres no difference. I installed new ones on my car 2 years back after paint and I only remember it being one of the easy steps, just slid them in and maybe trimmed the length a bit. Since stretchy, I think I pushed them a bit tight lengthwise so would continue to fit better if they shrink over many years. The old ones were short an inch when removed as I remember. Assume you have the mating slot nice and clean, of course lube with soapy water is always great when installing rubber parts anywhere on these cars.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:50 AM
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It was a blister inducing son of a ***** job. I used soapy water and removed the trim from the door. You pull from one end, then push to try to move it. Each one took 30-45 minutes of pulling, stretching, pushing and re soaping.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:13 AM
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I've tried all of your suggestions but still no joy. Thanks for the help nevertheless.

Steve
Old 06-16-2016, 08:09 AM
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Sure doesn't sound correct to me. I replaced the rubber window scrapers on my SC and they slipped right in with no lube and very little resistance and left them a tad long knowing over time they will shrink and shorten.

It's another one of those jobs where a simple tool, known as the model airplane propeller, either hard nylon or wood gets reached for in the tool box. You can use the thin trailing edge of the prop to gently lift that metal strip from the door without doing any damage to the paint and you could probably use the tip, as it gets thicker from the trailing edge to the leading edge, to widen the slot just a bit so you won't have to fight the rubber insert.

And if you don't have a hobby shop locally, find out where your local R/C enthusiast fly and make a visit to their flying field. A broken prop, which happens frequently, is pretty much useless to a modeler.

Last edited by SCadaddle; 06-16-2016 at 08:36 AM..
Old 06-16-2016, 08:27 AM
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That's a great suggestion SCadaddle! I used a tiny screwdriver in some areas but it was too risky as it isn't long and flat. I'm thinking the channel could have been bent in and pressed together from people leaning on the trim when talking to the driver/passenger or maybe just resting arms on the sill as you drive / ride.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:15 AM
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Thanks. I haven't flown R/C in a long time so I'm fresh out of props. I do have one of those trim removal kits that has a knife like tool. I managed to slice my thumb pretty good with it. I guess I can try to widen the metal channel a bit. Thanks for the continued tips.
Old 06-16-2016, 01:02 PM
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Thread revival......... have just done this job on mine this evening. 5 mins per side Take the trim off, slide the old rubber out, slide the new rubber in.

Old 03-03-2017, 10:33 AM
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