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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 32
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I've got rust in my fuel tank on my 71 T. What are my best options? Re-coat (best product?) or replace with OEM used or galvanized reproduction?
Which OEM tanks will work with a 71T? I've flushed it out three times and still continue to get micro particles in my fuel filter after a 10 miles drive. Thanks for any replys |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 252
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Some people have sworn by POR-15's fuel tank kit. They make excellent anti-rust products, and they have a kit which I have heard a few people use with good results. I believe that it coats the inside of the tank. Have a look here
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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I have not used POR, and I know no one who has coated a Porsche tank. but I have prepped and coated tanks before, and know others who have. It seems to work. Worth a try. Process: Rinse rinse rinse. Prep with that acid stuff that kills rust (forgot the name). Rinse and dry well (over several days). Coat.
Be sure to remove any tank screens first. Your tank probably has a screen.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Metal Guru
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Replace it. When a fuel tank rusts it's now thinner in the rusted area. With the fuel tank sitting right at the pointy end of the car there's a good chance it will rupture in a frontal collision and that is a bad thing. Why take a chance?
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Paul B. '91 964 3.3 Turbo Port matched, SC cams, K27/K29 turbo, Roush Performance custom headers w/Tial MV-S dual wastegates, Rarlyl8 muffler, LWFW, GT2 clutch & PP, BL wur, factory RS shifter, RS mounts, FVD timing mod, Big Reds, H&R Coilovers, ESB spring plates- 210 lb |
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Registered
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There are replica tanks now, sold at many places, that are only $200-$300 for the early 911s. Not so for the '78 on yet though.
For that money you will save on buying, shipping and possibly treating a used tank. Look around for prices-- start with Pelican to see what they have!
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'78 SC Euro turbo conversion (track days) SOLD '89 928 S4 (daily driver) '10 XC70 (family car) http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/hilandscott/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: sunny, warm, Pittsburgh
Posts: 277
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Re: Replace it!
Quote:
$200. I checked Pelican, but didn't see any early 911 tanks. Please, point us in the right direction. For that much money, it's not worth the trouble of boiling and resealing the old rusty tank. ![]()
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Clint 73T mfi coupe 87 gli sedan 87 535is 5speed (the newbie) |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,955
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I used the POR system on my 914 tank when it sprung pinhole leaks. The tank did not appear overly rusty, but had some pinhole leaks.
I used their tank sealer on the inside, and their POR-15 on the outside, followed by a coating of Wurth black on the outside. Worked great, and seemed like a great product. It completely coats the inside of the tank, and comes with everything you need (cleaning and prep'in agents, etc.) The inside of the tank had a cool looking, even silver finish when I was done. Almost like a ceramic. I didn't have to do any boiling of the tank, although I think I may have rinsed it with boiling water (they have very complete instructions, and I did what they said to do). Although I don't recall the price - most POR stuff isn't particularly cheap, and if you can get a brand new tank for $200 . . . Last edited by CarreraS2; 12-26-2002 at 07:54 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: South of the Mason-Dixon Line
Posts: 3,722
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Performance Products sells a replica tank for early models to 1973.5 (CIS). I believe they run about $300.00. Check the latest catalog. Also replace that screw in filter and all your lines while your doing it.
Bob 73.5T |
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Montana 911
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ITS UP TO YOU
I did the POR 15 tank treatment...
It's time consuming, but the results were outstanding! I posted the steps here about a year ago, so you can find them via search. (well I can't seem to find the post). 1 - remove all fuel (disconnect battery for safety) 2 - disconnect the fuel level sender, and all lines 3- Remove the tank and take it somewhere and spray it out real good....chunks of rust came out of mine. 4-follow the instructions on the POR kit. (etch, rinse, dry, coat, rotate, rotate, rotate, dry, dry, dry....this takes time...like 96 hours if I remember correctly. 5-Since you had the rust, make sure to replace the fuel filters, and accumulator if needed...may not hurt to examine the fuel pump and fuel lines as well. I am not mechanically smart, but I was able to do this pretty easy...the hard part for me was waiting for it all to dry. Smitty ![]()
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H.D. Smith 2009 997.2 S 3.8 PDK 2019 Ford Ranger Lariat FX4 Baby Raptor 2019 Can Am Renegade 1000R XC 2020 Yamaha YFZ450R Last edited by k9handler; 12-26-2002 at 10:35 AM.. |
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Registered
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por is awesome. my tank sounds like it was like yours, there was a sea of sediment in the bottom, total PIA. sounds like you have pulled the tank before, get the kit and do it, it only adds a little bit more effort into what you have been doing already....
joe 68 L |
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Registered
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....now that i am recollecting, the hardest part was dealing with the friggin gas pouring out of the tank. It is nerve racking being under the car with gas pouring out into bucket. You start thinking that a random spark might spontaneously appear, etc. That was one i did with fire extinguisher handy and also did NOT complete whilst in garage. luckily there was a clean trout stream near so i had somewhere to dump all that gas.
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