Advanced A-arm Questions
 

Okay, I fought with the castle nut at the bottom of the strut and the nut lost. Its shape is now that of a "C" instead of an "O".

Okay, the a-arm seems to be an assembly. The big part includes a long tube that houses the torsion bar. At the ends of these tubes there seems to be cylinder-shaped parts. Between these cylinder shaped parts and the long tube are bushings. I think these cylinder-shaped pieces slide off the a-arm so that the bushings can be replaced. This is correct, right?

I think my little offroad excursion did little more than mash the rear bushing, and put a gap along side the front bushing. So in theory, I would just need to readjust the positions of these cylinder-shaped end pieces. Right?

In reality, I should change bushings, and I'll do a search. Someone was so clever as to install a zerk fitting. Anybody remember who that smart guy was?

I think the a-arm is fine. The accident pushed the adjusting cap back through the cross member, and the cross member had to be welded, but it seems straight too. The adjusting bolt is bent pretty good too. So, I think the cross member and the bolt took the brunt of the force. I think the a-arm is fine, and I just need to change bushings and go.

You want Chuck's bushings. You are right on how to remove the bushings. You will need a vise and probably a torch. Chuck wrote a Tech Article on the job. I hope nothing important is bent there.

I believe he also has some bronze bushings which you may want to check out.

Argo
88 Targa

Okay, now I've done some more reading. Besides the bronze ElephantBushings, and aside from rumors that factory bushings are available, what are my other options? There is at least one hard plastic bushing out there, Weltmeister I believe. But some folks seem to be discussing a "street" bushing that is hard, and a "track" bushing that is even harder. Both plastic.

True? Two hardnesses of plastic bushings? Or just one kind of plastic bushing?

I would just buy a new arm, although 2 make sense to keep the suspension even. I am sure you've read about the process to fit the plastic bushings. Rather than take that gamble I opted for new arms, dont regret it at all. If you look around you can get them for ~$500/pair.

I had a similar "off-road" excursion at an autoX last spring - four wheel drift coming out of a slalom and into a 6" curb. Wasted the wheel and bent the RH control arm pretty bad (luckily the spindle wasn't hurt). The frustration was magnified more so as I had just rebuilt the entire suspension 4 months prior with bars, rack spacers and "street" hardness bushings in the front. Bought a new control arm, used a propane torch to soften stock rubber bushings for removal and replaced with the poly ones. Also installed new ball joint just in case the prior one was compromised from the impact.

While I didn't add zerk fittings I hand fit them and used a Dremel to cut slots both inside and outside for grease reserve. Used a very thick clear moly grease recommended for these bushings. Several track events and a few thousand street miles and still no noise - even in the lower winter temps. I Highly recommended for the front control arms (used the neatrix for the rear).

I still think my a-arm is not bent, and I'm considering having it put on a gig to test. After talking to a trusted local auto guy, I have a question about these poly bushings. He says he sees a LOT of broken/beat up ones. A LOT.

Anybody seen any broken or mangled plastic bushings?

Someone on this board a while back posted pics of his poly bushings. He cut grooves in them and added zerk fittings. Do a search on this. It looked like it worked great!

I have two extra "A" arms from a 81 SC. Not really wanting to sell one but if you want to use one as a pattern to make sure yours is or is not bent, would be glad to loan it to you.

Joe

Yo Superman-

I'm doing the exact same stuff right now. Once the A-arm was out I clamped it lightly to the workbench and heated each rubber bushing indirectly with a propane torch to weasel the cylindrical pieces off. While you have it hot (and have gloves on) take a rag to the a-arm where the bushing was as this is a good time to wipe off any rubber gunk that was left.

You could compare your a-arms left to right on the workbench by taking some precise measurements at certain points off the table. Obviously, if the two arms are not symmetrical, one of them is bent. And then you're on to a more careful inspection. Also check to make sure your front brackets with the tow loops are symmetrical as well. I found one of mine was tweaked pretty nice after the PO ran up a steep drive or something. Obiviously you could see the hook thing was bent, but not until it was removed did I see that the thick gauge metal section was twist outta whack as well. And then I saw the sheet metal on the car where the bracket mounts was shoved up a tad...

I bought the 4 poly bushings kit from Pelican. I would love to buy Chuck's bronze bushings but at $60 for the poly ones and $190 for Chuck's, poly won out... I have a tough time believing if you greased the poly ones liberally at install that they would break apart...sounds like a story to me but then again this is my first bushing install...

-BG

Jim, don't use the plastic. Use the street hardness Polygraphite bushings. They are roughly right in the middle between rubber and plastic as far as hardness. Had them on my car and they felt fine. No squeaks or noise/harshness.

Personally, I hate plastic bushings. They definitely do break apart fairly quickly. The grease gets squished out in short order, and they just don't stay together after all the impact and friction. Every set I've seen in the rear of a 911 has been disintegrated or at least starting to tear. The front ones do fair better, but they are especially noisy and harsh.

I just finished R&R of my front suspension. The Weltmeister bushings were just fine so were cleaned, lubed and reinstalled just like everything else. The front is noticably tighter and with much better feel. They've been on the car for years.

They can be hard to pull off. I needed a vise on the a-arm and a cheater bar to get'em pulled.

Tyson! Wish you were here, obviously. But I think I'm getting this figured out. Thanks for the offer, Joe, but I really am pretty sure the a-arm is not bent. Considering the jig test, but I think it is straight.

So, Tyson, it sounds like there are plastic, non-'poly' bushings. Mark kept saying the broken ones are a particular color. Red, I think. He thinks they're poly, but perhaps they're the plastic ones. I have not heard of this trouble with the poly bushings in our cars. And besides, I think this (a-arm application) is the right one one for firmer bushings. Bear in mind, I am one who respects the designers of the factory setup.

Thanks, all.

The street-hardnees poly bushings are Red. That's what I installed b/c Chuck's bushings were not avilable yet. I like them but I will be installing bronze bushing as soon as I have a reason. You are going to do both sides, right?

The poly bushings I've used are Black. Never seen red. The plastic are also black. I'm referring to the Weltmeister bushings.
I don't know who makes the red bushings.

Tyson, you are right. I just went out and looked at mine and they are black. The red must have come from a picture? I found Chucks Poly bushing article, here.

I'm just out of questions, guys. Street poly bushings. New adjusting screw. Zerk fittings. I wonder if the bushing could be 'staked' by a short screw through the bracket and into the bushing. Being careful not to deform that inside bushing bore.

huh?

I think Super would love the Welt street bushings in his part of the world.. great bang for the buck.. I used some gorilla snot bushing grease.. front and rear still in great shape after 40k miles... like you can twist the steering wheel in a lane quickly back and forth at 70mph and not have to wait for the front end to catch up with your input...........Ron

Ron, you're a night owl. Doc, the zerk fitting addition, the brainchild of Chuck Morehead, may poke slightly into the bushing but it is wondered whether the bushing could rotate. Probably not if I fit them properly, but I'm wondering about staking them still with a screw.