just curious, what CD unit do you have. BOSCH or MSD or ?

view 4
is the timing picture at idle or higher RPM?
can the timing be retarded or set properly with it 2 notches CW.

it really looks like you have #1 on the wrong place on the cap.


have you connected vacuum to both pots to see if they both work.
one is retard and one is advance,

This board is kind of like tennis.

One side hits the ball and the other side returns.

The rotor-to-notch position is all relative. Theoretically, if one is able to rotate the dist. housing 360º and the plug wires correctly sequenced in the cap, you should be able to initially align the housing notch with the rotor with the pulley/engine timing marks. However, it's not possible to just loosen and rotate the housing at every point due to surrounding engine parts. In addition, the spark plug cables aren't long enough to re-clock the distributor in any position. Some DIY mechanics manage to maintain the required relationship by repositioning the plug wires in the cap. While possible and will work, this is a workaround and thus not suggested.

With no. 1 cylinder positioned at TDC (end of compression, not exhaust) and the TDC timing mark on the pulley opposite the crankcase notch, the rotor should be close to the dist. housing notch at approx. 4 o'clock. If not, remove the distributor and reinstall clockwise or counterclockwise accordingly so the notch is opposite the rotor tip (Note: shape of helical gear rotates shaft/rotor slightly during installation). In this position, there should be enough rotation range to fine tune with a timing light.

Sherwood

You missed a step;

One side hits the ball then runs around his own ass and punches himself in the nuts three times and the other side returns.

There you go.

It is the original.

The vacuum line to the advance is working. It visibly moves the arm and holds vacuum.

I thought that #1 goes just counter clockwise from the clip?

I think we have it after some more fiddling. I think the lesson is to be more precise and patient in the installation to get it right. Idles at around 5 degrees and when revved it looks like it advances 20+ degrees.

Yes. It is the first wire CCW of the clip.

SC's have no grunt at full mechanical advance given intended 87 octane. Of course you have to kinda guess where full advance is given no marks. I did some odd measuring and marking with a flexible ruler after doing the Pi thing, blah blah. Stock idle at 5 deg BTDC gives you 18-23 at "wide open" which ends on the SC about 3k RPM. To all those that say 6k RPM, um, no. You can cheat and grab three or so degrees distributor advance and run mid grade or premium. Don't go more than that unless you consult with someone who charges more than me.

Thanks for responding.

^^^

I heard that Hawaiian residents have this skill mastered - true?!?!

http://www.smiley-lol.com/smiley/bananas/banana163.gif

Got the car going! Replaced wires, rotor, cap, and distributor. Tuned in the timing one more and that was the final piece of the puzzle. Runs really strong and settles into a nice idle. Will run over to the shop tomorrow to do a final tune with the exhaust sensor.

Yoda voice on......Like a moth to a flame you are.....mmmmm?

Cool beans.

SexyShane, you can flame all you want, bro, I don't judge! :)