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I would reconnect the warm up regulator to start with. The screw bypass seems suspect to me. its there for a reason and from experience makes a significant difference.

Assume all the plugs all show the same burn. If one is rich or lean it will skew the reading at the pipe.

Assume the cam is stock and matches the MFI pump. Otherwise it will never be mapped 100% correctly. Off idle lean is common but should not be severe. Better to run a bit rich then a bit lean.

smoothly advancing timing is important. Keep the retard hose attached and time it at idle and 6k RPM's

Hope this helps.

Chris
73 E

Old 08-28-2017, 08:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies an suggestions.

All rods are brand new and the pump rod is exactly 114 mm.

Injectors has been tested and used when the pump was calibrated. And I have one new injector I have swopped around with no change.

I will check lift and duration of the cams in situ.

Before I started restoring the fuel system I noticed that the pump was misaligned. The pump lever was 10-15 degrees off the stop at idle. And the car was driveable.
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Old 08-28-2017, 12:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomiata View Post
Before I started restoring the fuel system I noticed that the pump was misaligned. The pump lever was 10-15 degrees off the stop at idle. And the car was driveable.

Well, as an experiment, maybe try setting it back to that to see if it improves the engine's running. Perhaps the pump is mismatched to your engine, and that was a band-aid fix?

Old 08-29-2017, 04:26 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
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