911 SC oil cooler upgrade?

[1978sc50k]

New owner of a 1978 SC and know there is an oil cooler upgrade.
My question would be is it a must for the 3.0 liter engine. Thanks
Pic of my other Porsche

[MBAtarga]

The likely upgrade is to the Carerra (radiator) style.
No -it's not mandatory. If you plan to track your car - it would be suggested.

[Kemo]

and also depends on your climate. Here in Texas, its a must IMHO. Especially if you get stuck in traffic. im shocked it doesnt already have a cooler upgrade considering all the money spent on cosmetics and the big reds...

[tcar]

Originally Posted by Kemo

im shocked it doesnt already have a cooler upgrade considering all the money spent on cosmetics and the big reds...

A close and thorough reading of his post should reveal that the yellow car is his "Other" Porsche... not the SC being discussed.

[1978sc50k]

Thanks tcar and sorry for the confusion about my 993 turbo as the question was about my 1978 SC

[timmy2]

New 1978 SC owner 51k
It gets hot and humid in NJ with traffic so it may be worthwhile to upgrade the cooler. I installed one of these. Still need to add a fan and a rock guard someday, but it is cool in Oregon most of the time, and I rarely see any gravel.
Pelican Parts.com - Mocal Oil Cooling Kit

[javadog]

There are many choices but it generally boils down to three: 28 tube brass cooler, Carrera 3.2 cooler, aftermarket version of the Carrera 3.2 cooler (like the ones sold by Elephant Racing). The brass tube coolers might work best at low speeds or if you don't get much air to the cooler. The later Carrera coolers were fitted with fans. These are a good upgrade if you replace the fan switch with a manual switch that allows you to turn the fan on at a lower temperature. The factory fan switch turned the fan on at close to 250F, which is too high. Any of these coolers will require the addition of a lower bracket (welded to the tub by the factory; bolted on sometimes by owners), the modification or replacement of the upper bracket and the relocation of the horns. There is a seal that is used in conjunction with the Carrera cooler rock guard to better seal the area around the cooler. It's not used for the brass cooler.

Porsche also made changes to the bumper to admit more air. They notched the underside of the bumper in front of the cooler to start with and then subsequently made another change to the profile of the underside of the bumper at that point, to raise it slightly and create a bigger opening. Some people have added a vent to the valance in front of the cooler. Others have swapped the stock SC valence for a Carrera 3.2 valence and left the fog lights out.

JR

[Flojo]

I pick this topic up, because the header fits my query.

This weekend, I'll be upgrading my oilcooling from trombone to 28-tube-brass.
why the brass, you ask?
I lite to somehow stick to the vintage style technology of my 79 (an aloy finned cooler wouldn't fit the style).

my question now is: can I please have some pictures as to where and how the holding brackets are positioned and fixed?

I allready baught:
- the two connecting flexlines (93020711100, -11300)
- the bottom L-bracket (91150149001
- the two upper ones (91150349201, 93020792100)
- carrera horn relocate bracket (91163510700)

But I have no template-idea where to drill/weld the brackets onto most exactly.

Thanks for your help!

(here's the cooler, pressure testet, glassbeedblasting tomorow)

[Jdub]

I also own a '78 and have done this conversion to the 28-tube cooler. You must first purchase the upper and lower mounts, remove the horn, etc. and dive in.

This thread shows pics of positioning: Oil Cooler Install WTF!? Bad Day in garage...

PM me for some DOC files that might help you.

[Wew]

I strongly encourage it. Hot days and some traffic, you will run hot. I installed the elephant racing with fan to replace my trombone, and now run 180 ish regardless external forces. Before I would get over 200 on a hot day just driving.
Worthwhile upgrade!

[tirwin]

If you're likely to get stuck in traffic that isn't moving on a hot summer day or you're going to see track time, then yes, it's worth the upgrade. A PO had upgraded the one on my '83 to a Mocal (not sure I got the spelling right). It's essentially a higher performance cooler with a fan. The switch for the fan was wired to the rear wiper switch, and since I don't have a rear wiper, it's perfect. It's really amazing how much that little fan helps when you're stuck in traffic.

[Reiver]

The later stock Carrera unit: radiator/fan/block off is fantastic. In 110 degree Az summers I now run at 190-195 and prior to that often 220-230 with the trombone.
I control the fan by switch not thermostat by design.

[Flojo]

Well, the obvious reason for an upgrade is clear, that's why I'm doing ist.

What I need is to figure out the how-to cooler positioning and the link referred to was good enough to give me a clue.
So I thank you.

In words, this is real ggod:

Originally Posted by Jdub

First, mount the tray (91150149001) onto the cooler, [..]. Next, wiggle the cooler into the fender and fit the hoses to the upper part of the cooler. Now, set the mounting bottom tray against the side of the wheel well and scribe the holes for mounting. Within the trunk, you will see the bumps you create after you center-punched from the outside where you have scribed the holes. After loosely fitting the tray in place and ensuring the upper section is well wedged in, as far as the oil hoses permit, only then will you figure your upper mounting.

So bottom first, be sure to place upper section so it fits snug, and then go ahead and figure your placement for the upper mount. Worked like a charm for me.

Final note - I did mount a 28-tube that does not have the need as the Carrera cooler does to fit super-snug up into the upper curve of the right front fender (to prevent air passage around the cooler). Just keep that in mind as you work.

[javadog]

Flojo,

See the attached photo of a similar installation of the lower bracket for a cooler done by a previous owner of a similar car. It should get you close.

The best plan is to install bothof the brackets onto the cooler, install the cooler onto the hoses in the fender area and hold the cooler into position, while someone else marks the bracket locations. That way, you know it will work.

JR

[Flojo]

good picture - thanks!

that gives me a very good prior-to impression of where the positioning will settle (aprox)

maybe a stupid question, but: are these spots (x-mark) bolt-on-possible spots?
caus I wont be able to weld the L-bracket on...

[javadog]

A bolt in each of those spots would be fine. Access to the other side of the lower one will be a problem, so you might have to install a rivet nut at that location.

JR

[Flojo]

ok, thanks!

[Jdub]

Do be sure to test the front tire clearance by re-mounting the wheel onto the hub and testing the fit. You will probably be OK with any 205/225 front combination, but all the same it is worth testing once you have your rough placement.

[Flojo]

good point, I did envisage this though already while planning the move for this weekend.

picked up parts today...

[Jdub]

Flo - you will find this to be an easier job than it appears. I remember that, for the lower bracket mouting via two bolts, the upper bolt is accessible within the trunk, while the lower bolt is not. For that reason I used a very large bolt that is more like a sheet metal screw than a fine threaded bolt and nut. Can have a look tonight.

Last minute thought: You did flush and compression test the cooler? Also, great opportunity to drop the lines from under the car and scrub them (and underbody area) very well. I actually got them polished up using a ScotchBrite pad before remounting. On remount (if you elect to do this on the tubes) be careful to insert the rubber protection pieces or use folded bicycle tubes or similar in a pinch.

EDIT: Save the trombone - the ID is an exact match for replacement of crushed tubes on the underside.

Would like to see photos when done so please post them! Good luck!