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We had a working prototype back a few years with plenty of sensors, data, etc. I had it in my cab but it was a distraction; I'm an old man so old school analog blends well and works for me. Keep us posted, sounds like you are having fun on the run. I know Ron can't wait to get his hands on your final unit so he watch his videos. |
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Mmmmm, videos in the Mighty Meatlocker Turbo . . . inappropriate (for some!) videozzzz! |
Sorry Ron. I always seem to forget consonants late in the day.
Here ya go.... "units" ! PS... Karl said he's going to put in a nav ap in the unit he sends you, something about coming in last in the local scavenger hunts? |
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Karl will probably put in a nav app that autopilots my car to his house - that way he can slip me a roofie and then dig through my car for a/c secrets while I am zzzzzing! |
Talked to Porsche CNA months back about driving a 930 around the world... of course plan is for PCNA to sponsor---entirely. Film crew included. Suggested white, early mod 930 being Porsche-of-choice. No stickers of any kind on car---totally clean lines. Slightly tinted windows (so one can see occupants but cannot make them out---car is hero.) Stock appearance of car = essential. Early vintage... purposely makes statement of enduring Porsche quality. Circumvention is with standard maintenance only as in filters, oil change etc (even though 930 is clearly & intentionally punished at times.) Contract reserves occupant/driver rights. 15 months. 10 to plan, permit, crew & prep. 5 to drive. Told PCNA 930 required is in Norf TexASS. Whether PCNA grasps vision & has balls suitable for this dramatic journey pends. Is unusual propaganda vehicle but if Porsche 'gets' promo value...
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4D's 2.8" product bezel fits Nextion 2.8 display viewing area exactly and has right radius corners to compliment Porsche's center console radius corners. While unproven at this point, I believe gloss black finish of this bezel will go well on black leather. Reason for being interested in alternative course is this bezel's downside: it's full plastic (so no touch screen ability as Nextion display unit allows) and only .7mm thick. Probably has to be back'd up somehow. This bezel will soon be in hand. Whether it's usable can then be decided. |
What's the goal you're trying to achieve? All I've ever wanted from climate control is three knobs and buttons for AC and recirculation:
1) Fan speed 2) Temperature 3) Distribution A car's ability to effectively maintain an accurate (as opposed to merely consistent) cabin temperature is not all that important for comfort. As one drives, the desired temp changes over time. When you first get in the car, you usually want max hot/cold, and as you drive you'll adjust as things change (less and less over time as equilibrium is approached). Feet get cold (or hot, depending on the person), seats get warm, etc etc...A static temp setting of, say, 70°F won't cut it, even factoring in humidity (which is neat, by the way). Perhaps I'm misunderstanding, but since you will necessarily be adjusting things as internal and external conditions change over time during every drive, what value do the sensors and computers add here over a few knobs and buttons? Great work by the way, don't take this as a critique. I'm one part engineer that sees a code review opportunity and one part driver who thinks the BMW E30 HVAC system was the zenith of design...particularly when compared to the later "climate control" systems that continue to invade modern luxury cars. |
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This Arduino project makes no sense unless one sees it as a creative expedition. Dealing with new materials & processes, sorting issues, learning a few new tricks along the way... it's all fine pasture. Ultimate goal & gratification is to deliver something John and I are able to call a quality outcome. |
Parts are arriving. First in is bezel (from 4D.) 4D display is acquired for bezel only---John prefers to program/sketch in Nextion display code rather than 4D. John's diligent participation... am grateful he's along for this creative journey. An excellent individual to collaborate with.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894262.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894281.jpg Arduino Uno. Is headed for cubby area. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894331.jpg 7 Phillips screws… console’s out. (Not fond of liking interior of car better with this thing removed! This thinking puts immediate crimp in planning. Fortunately... is not a simple delete! There are considerable holes in carpet where this connects to tunnel. Dogged my own bullet!) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894362.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894377.jpg Naked AC control panel. Plan is to extend this facia down to bottom of cubby. Stock control knobs will remain. Center cut out is where speaker front-to-rear fader control was. That will be covered. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894445.jpg Exit for switches/wiring is seen at front of console when AC control panel part is removed. Vertical plastic part inside cubby at left has nothing in it---only serves to hold AC control panel up/in place. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894503.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476895020.jpg Top tangs on existing AC control panel will be removed as these will not work when new facia fits top to bottom inside console. (New AC control is planned to slide in/out of console. Question is how to fasten unit without putting screws in facia.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476894891.jpg |
If rear window reflects in display (from driver’s viewpoint)… bad news---screen’s content is useless. To “control” reflection, am tilting display’s top slightly forward (in car) in its mount. (If tilted forward too much, driver sees up through front windshield---just as bad as rear window reflection.) Target reflection = ceiling’s black headliner. Was going to wood carve tilted mounting panel. Decided to go with clay as positive mold > rubber as negative mold (from clay) > resin as final positive (from rubber). Reason… this path seems to offer more flexibility on route to creating a final tilted panel. Have never done this so… totally experimental.
Box for clay is exact measure of added panel area (minus leather dimension that will wrap around on three sides.) Release agent is spray shellac. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476897625.jpg Air dry, non-shrink clay. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476897656.jpg Tilt profile was drawn in Adobe Illustrator. Going through exacting process of building impression model from those drawings was considered but the time to do so was extravagant. Thought I could get profiles very close to what is needed by looking at drawings while sculpting clay. Is not an exact outcome but with some sanding... it will smooth out with a profile that's very close to the drawings. Important area here is primarily perimeter as display will knock most of this surface area out. (While 4D bezel window dimensions fit Nextion’s display area, I’ve yet to confirm a nice flush-fit between bezel and Nextion display. Am moving forward as if it those parts will fit nicely.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476897751.jpg On premise that clay would take considerable time curing while sitting confined in a box… I pulled the clay. Not a good idea. Clay stuck to wood in some places. Proceeding to separate clay from wood has caused both distortions and breakage. Broken bits have been reassembled. Distortions have yet to be sorted. (Shellac---and fact that I pulled clay before it was fully cured---does not work. Better “release agent” would have been to line box with Saran Wrap.) While this doesn't look like much here... once the black leather forms onto this and the bezel goes on, it starts to come together. (Would have taken pic but short on hands.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476897835.jpg |
Looks interesting, Karl, butt am not sure how you can resist the temptation to leave the center console out of the car (and start your design over, as a result!). I really like the looks of the interior with that removed, and might do that with the mighty Turbo some day. Not that I'm trying to peer pressure you, or anything!!! :D
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Karl,
If you want to better understand "reflection" Anti-Reflective and Anti-Glare Technologies for Display Applications Possible 3M solutions 3M™ Display Enhancement and Protection Films |
Yummy :D
Watching in anticipation Brother Karl :D |
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Arduino... mounted... in wrong position. Yeah, this is what not to do. Looking at this now I realize display panel would have to be removed every time Arduino is reprogrammed (given units inflexible data cable near the socket.) Since there'll surly be a number of reprogramming events to fine tune the system once its running, easy access in this regard would be smart to build-in now. Thinking this through on the fly... makes sense to leave data cable connected to Arduino and have other end resting in console's access hole. Minor adjustment. No worries on perpetual reprogramming John!---I'll learn code. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476968412.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476968432.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476968449.jpg |
I am well Brother, just completed my 2 major journeys: 964 Cam Swap and 915 Gear Box Rebuild. Oh the Joy.
Now relaxin and enjoying the ride :D and watching the Mad Scientist at work :cool: Break a Leg Brother! |
^^^ Nice work Jim. Did U open threads on those? Immediate curiosity... when you 964 cams, does that trickle down to timing refinement, F/A mixture, chip mod, change of dancing girls, etc... or is it plug-&-play??? (MS... HA! We're all grapes on same vine---you're just much smarter than me as I tend to tangle in the undergrowth.)
Data cable in place. Moronic positioning of Arduino for sure. I can wake up now. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476983379.jpg |
How do you plan to power the Arduino?
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Just saw John's digital rendition of screen layout. Impressive piece of work John!
Ard is repositioned. Data cable now remains permanently connected to it. When not uploading, cable can stuff into front of console. Last bits---potentiometers---are now ordered. (One is for "Set Temp." Other is to adjust screen contrast. Been trying to find shaft that will fit Porsche knob without having to mod parts. May have succeeded.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476990596.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476990615.jpg |
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^. You'll need a bit more than a step down. Automotive '12V' rail is electrically very noisy and can vary between 3 and 15V.
You'll have to factor in transient suppression and the dreaded 'load dump'. In any automotive design involving low voltage microcontrollers, this is a challenge. You can easily get transient voltages of 50+ V which will readily kill your electronics. At best, you will experience random resets and other 'glitches'. There are several approaches built from discretes but probably the easiest is to adopt a proper PMIC (that's what our CDI+ has). Here's a data sheet for a typical protection device. I am not saying use this one, but it describes the sort of conditions you will be facing. http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snva681a/snva681a.pdf |
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1. 12 volt input to 1N4004 to 15 ohms followed by transient suppressor (22 volts) to ground 2. 100 uf @ 35V capacitor to ground and 5V regulator (78L05) input 3. 5 volt regulator output to 47 uf @ 10V (tantalum) to ground with regulator output for microcontroller power 4. regulator third pin grounded It's that simple. |
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78L05? I think he's gonna need more than 100mA with that display. Never seen any 7805 in any production design ever. Might be ok for proof of concept on the bench but not for anything proper. LM2937 is a better choice. I suggest the OP looks at the power supply for something like Megasquirt. This project granted is just a bit of fun but if you're even remotely thinking of making this into a product you have to work on the basis that the installer/operator is a complete idiot. The car will get started on a booster, things will get connected wrongly, power supplies backwards, you name it, it will happen. Thinking about this stuff now will save you a world of pain in the long run. Just my $0.02. |
Thought about 3d printing a bezel?
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Wow what an ambitious project, more power to you!
In my Targa I have no need for any AC setting other than MAX; one switch puts 12v on the monster GM fan, and another switch goes to the AC compressor clutch. I too have removed the console and love the look without it. Chuck.H '89 TurboLookTarga, 422k miles |
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Specs: Basic properties:https://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIV0GP3AZ0023&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleBizMKPL-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleBizMKPL-PC-_-pla-_-Power+Strips+-+Inverters+and+Converters-_-9SIV0GP3AZ0023&gclid=COGD1JPR7M8CFQZafgodLg8CYA Quote:
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Center console... the more I don't see it onboard, the more I don't want to see it onboard! Interior "cleans up" very nicely without it. Question is, where would controls and display go without console? I have Kuehl center vent (where bow tie was) so don't want to mount AC controls below dash at center. Don't want to put in glove box. With Targa... can't go overhead. Would very much like to see pic of your interior configuration---in particular... where are your AC controls located?!?! |
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Little difference to the LM2937 when proper input protection circuitry is used. |
Rubber molding media is 2-part soft putty. Product: EasyMold.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477138947.jpg Testing for any undesirable reaction between materials and for release of rubber from clay. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477139069.jpg 2-3 hour harden time. 24 hour full cure time. No odd reaction and nice release. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477139096.jpg 4D (L) and Nextion (R) 2.8" displays. I may have made a mistake getting touch screen Nextion. Not sure if non-touch Nextion screen reflection would be same but when comparing to 4D non-touch, there's a noticeable difference between the two screens. (Reason for getting touch screen was possibility of developing touch screen items downstream. Given low location of display when in operating position, it now seems a bad idea to be working a touch screen at such a low level.) These displays are so inexpensive so if, after installation, there's any issue with visibility... I'll get a non-touch screen Nextion to see if there's any difference. (Nextion was had from ITEAD. Product shipped from Hong Kong. Took only a few days by postal service.) 4D screen came with bezel attached to it with double sided tape---black tape can be seen in pic. 4D Bezel is flush-fit to Nextion display---precluding further bezel-chasing! How this screen-&-bezel combo will actually preform with the display turned on has yet to be proven. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477139350.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477139854.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477139887.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477139904.jpg |
Anyone that has removed center console and repostioned AC controls... pls post pic.
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Karl,
If you're looking for ideas on how to 'clean up' the interior, here is what I've done. First I deleted the center console. When I did my interior rejuvenation I went with RS carpets. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477142673.jpg But I had to solve the problem of where to relocate the A/C controls. I got the idea to put them in the ash tray location from Fred Cook. Fred went so far as to send me a mock up of what he used in his own car. Ray Morgan (local guy) helped me build a more permanent mount solution and we finished with some of the leftover vinyl I used from the interior job. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477142955.jpg Perhaps you could mount a bezel there. A slightly different approach (albeit a bit more complex) would be to hide the arduino controller someplace (under a seat for example) and then connect to the arduino via Bluetooth to a smartphone. You have all kinds of GUI design choices with Apple & Android SDKs. Plus there is a wealth of development help/info out there. Most people have a great screen in their pocket these days. Here's a pic of what I'm looking at when I'm driving. I use the P-car mount to place my phone within easy view and reach. Sorry for the crappy lighting. I can take another picture in the daylight if that helps. The phone mount is on a ball joint so I can adjust it up/down and left/right if there is any glare. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477143386.jpg |
Another twist on the idea would be to use the P-car mount and pick a mounting bracket for your custom screen from the vast array of choices available. The P-car mount has a universal mounting plate and you can use any type of holder/attachment that matches. There are all kinds to choose from. Take a look at Pro Fit International for a place to start.
Maybe one of these would work... GPS Holders and Mounts for Garmin, TomTom and more Here is a link to PCAR mounts. http://pcarmounts.com Pelican sells them now too. |
^^^ Nice location idea Tim! Am definitely going to explore this. iPhone BT connectivity... in my case that would not always work well---I like being without iPhone on occasion. Display put below or above knobs would possibly work. As I recall, ashtray is off center so a slight dip in the dash there would not be issue (relative to AC center vent below.) Think you hit it Tim. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif
New question is whether or not to pursue this direction now or stay the planned course? Gona ponder before diving in. PS... great work on interior Tim! PSS... appreciate the links. Not for this per se but I save them all the same---future ref. TY This is creative thinking... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477145777.jpg |
Being 'unavailable' and 'without cell phone' are different things. I use the Do Not Disturb feature on my iPhone all the time. There is nothing more distracting than being in a customer meeting giving a presentation and having someone constantly calling and texting.
When I'm driving the 911 I usually turn DND on. For one it would do no good to answer the phone. The car is loud and I like it that way. I have my family's numbers on the exception list. Wife knows I won't answer when I'm driving the 911 unless it is an emergency. (I have BT in my truck.) I use Waze a lot even when I know where I'm going because Atlanta sucks for traffic accidents and I can get a warning to avoid it. Plus I use the Escort radar detector app on my phone. Those are essentials to me. Should you ever decide to make this generally available, I think the BT/Smartphone approach would be best. For one, it would help keep the costs down (less hardware). Secondly everyone has a preferred way of using/mounting a smartphone so this has ultimate flexibility. It also reduces the installation complexity. And finally product life cycle upgrades are greatly simplified. |
^^^ Mounting arm off clock face is a great find Tim... TY for that. I get what you're saying about BT-iPhone combo. I tend to forget phone---and quite frankly am content to be without it at times. So... am switching out iPhone mounted on the "boom" for permanent touch screen---which has functionality at that level compared to being down in console. Not having to fit display into dash also allows a larger screen than is going into console.
Rather than detour here, going to finish as planned---keeping console for the time being. When other projects have been completed, will return to this doing ash tray delete (for knobs) and boom add. "Non-shrink" clay... shrunk. Measurably over just a few inches. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477161415.jpg Will add material to both sides. Saran Wrap liner works well... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477161481.jpg Can remove Saran immediately without distorting clay. If clay had to remain wrapped in it... would take very long time to dry. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477161684.jpg |
All parts have arrived. Handing over to John... possibly tomorrow.
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Parts & Notes File
Photo refs at bottom Graphic Display #1 Nextion Enhanced NX3224K028 - Generic 2.8'' Touch Display Model: IM160511003. Source: ITEAD / $22.40 https://www.itead.cc/nextion-nx3224k028.html For: display/screen part only. Bezel comes from 4D System’s display unit. Mounts: in custom DIY face panel added below existing AC control panel (in center console.) Manufac’s Descrip: Nextion Enhanced NX3224K028 is a powerful 2.8'' HMI TFT display, with 16MB Flash data storage space, 1024 byte EEPROM, 3584 byte RAM. With GPIO supported, now you can use Nextion to control external devices.Includes hardware part (a series of TFT boards) and software part (the Nextion editor). The Nextion TFT board uses only one serial port to communicate. This lets you avoid the hassle of wiring. In the Nextion Editor, the drag-and-drop function ensures that you spend less time in programming, which will reduce 99% of your development workload. With the help of this WYSIWYG editor, designing a GUI is a piece of cake. It's easy to adapt Nextion family HMI to existing projects, you just need to provide it a UART. Note: there's a small power supply test board and a wire for you to test if the electricity supply is enough or not. NOTES: Display screens have varying degrees of reflectivity. In this case, Nextion screen has higher degree of reflectivity than 4D screen. Regardless, ontop of Nextion screen will go solid plastic 4D System bezel---that bezel has high gloss surface. (Perhaps there are spray coatings that would help---have not researched "dulling spray" at this stage.) By adjusting tilt angle of screen, it’s possible to reflect black headliner to driver’s line of sight. TILT: In addition to the console’s 37 degree facia tilt, added display panel tilts back 5.8 degrees. Total tilt-back for display = 42.8 degrees. This angle is particular/unique to driver’s height and proximity to console. Graphic Display #2 4D Systems 2.8” Non-Touch Screen Model: gen4-uLCD-28D-CLB Source: 4D Systems / $49.00 4D Systems | Turning Technology into Art For: Bezel part only. Mounts: On face of Nextion display Manufac’s Descrip: Intelligent 2.8", 240x320 pixel, non-touch display module featuring a cover lens bezel and embedded DIABLO16 processor, which includes a gen4-IB adaptor and 30 way FFC Cable NOTES: Is solid plastic bezel---meaning there’s no center area cut out. This results in a “double screen layer.” How well this will work in terms of working visibility has yet to be proven. Reason for using Nextion display and 4D System bezel is John’s experience with Nextion programming combined with fact that only accurately fitting stock bezel for Nextion 2.8" display is 4D’s 2.8 bezel. In the alternative, 3-D printing a bezel as well as CNC’ing are alternative paths to take. Either would likely cost more than 4D display & bezel ($49 + shipping.) While visual area of 4D bezel matches visual area of Nextion display, this combo has yet been “turned on.” Nextion display (I purchased) is touch-screen capable. This capability is rendered mute by 4D bezel covering touch screen. (Touch-screen was purchased believing "touch" may serve a future interest. Thinking it over, using a touch screen mounted below stock AC control knobs in center console now seems a bad idea. So no longer thinking of any touch capability given display’s current low location. Tim / “Tirwin” referenced an interesting bracket that mounts off instrument panel’s clock face. Were a screen mounted at the level this bracket offers… touch capability would be sensible. See post 71 for Tim’s link / 72 for bracket pic. Microcontroller Arduino Uno Source: DigiKey / $22.00 A000073 Arduino | Programmers, Development Systems | DigiKey For: digital controller Mounts: inside center console cubby on DIY bracket. Power cord permanently attached… USB end dangles from front access hole of console. Make quick-release for AC control panel---panel slides in/out of cubby. Manufac’s Descrip: Arduino Uno is a microcontroller board based on the ATmega328P. It has 14 digital input/output pins (of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs, 6 analog inputs, a 16 MHz quartz crystal, a USB connection, a power jack, an ICSP header and a reset button. Waterproof Temp Sensor DS18B20 / Dallas – One-wire compatible Source: Sparkfun / $9.95 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11050 http://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/Temp/DS18B20.pdf For: Report evaporator core temp to Arduino Mount: in evaporator core (with quick-disconnect terminals located outside evap’s plenum.) Manufac’s Descrip: This sealed digital temperature probe lets you precisely measure temperatures in wet environments with a simple 1-Wire interface. The DS18B20 provides 9 to 12-bit (configurable) temperature readings over a 1-Wire interface, so that only one wire (and ground) needs to be connected from a central microprocessor. Temp & Humidity Sensors DHT21 AM2301 Digital Temperature Module Source: Ebay / $3.14 each For: Report cabin temp & humidity to Arduino Mounts: On interior ceiling behind seats For: Report ambient temp & humidity to Arduino Mounts: behind front bumper Manufac’s Descrip: 1. 4-pin package 2. Ultra-low power 3. No additional components 4. Excellent long-term stability 5. All calibration, digital output 6. Completely interchangeable 7. Long distance signal transmission 8. Relative humidity and temperature measurement Specifications: 1. Type: AM2301 2. Accuracy resolution: 0.1 3. Measurement range: 0-100%RH 4. Temperature measurement range: -40℃ ~ +80℃ 5. Humidity measurement precision: ±3%RH 6. Temperature measurement precision: ±0.5℃ NOTES: At this moment, only three temps affect AC operation. 1.) “Set Temp” (target cabin temperature), 2.) Cabin Temp, 3.) Evap Temp. Ambient and both humidity readouts are presently non-essential bits of info. 2 Potemtiometers, 1 Knob Pot 10K OHM 1/20W Linear Part 987-1649-ND Source: DigiKey / Potentiometer $1.29 each (2 units) P0915N-FC15BR10K TT Electronics/BI | Potentiometers, Variable Resistors | DigiKey For: Rotational selection for cabin’s target temp (“Set Temp” as displayed on screen.) Mounts: in existing AC panel connected to stock temp knob. For: Rotational selection for display’s contrast setting. Mounts: on DIY bracket hidden below dash. Knob: Black/Matte .625” Diameter for 6mmm shaft diameter Part 226-4105-ND DigiKey / $6.10 OEDL-63-4-7 Kilo International | Hardware, Fasteners, Accessories | DigiKey For: Screen contrast knob Mounts: on potentiometer on bracket hidden below dash. NOTES: Reason for this particular model potentiometer is its shaft config---it fits into a Porsche knob (after metal compression ring is removed from knob.) Knob is not perfectly centered on this shaft but… is not noticeable unless one looks very carefully at movement of knob when turning it. Where multiple knobs are positioned in alignment next to each other… and depending on static rotational position of knob, off-center may be evident. Minor mod of parts can center knob on shaft. Relay 2-Channel 12V Relay Module With Optocoupler For Arduino DSP AVR PIC ARM Source: NYPlatform.com / $3.88 2-Channel 12V Relay Module With Optocoupler For Arduino DSP AVR PIC ARM For: 12v Power to AC compressor Mounts: On DIY bracket hidden below dashboard NOTE: Am not sure at this moment if 2nd channel is needed. Serves as spare for time being. Resistors 10 OHM, 4.7 OHM Pic Reference: Graphic display #1 / Nextion 2.8" http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477332710.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477332726.jpg Graphic display #2 / 4D System's 2.8" bezel drawing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477334420.jpg Microcontroller / Arduino Uno with USB power cord http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477333195.jpg Waterproof temp sensor / one-wire compatible http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477333082.jpg Temp & humidity sensors http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477333263.jpg Potentiometers & screen contrast control knob. ("Set Temp" knob is stock Porsche. Compression ring is removed from knob in order to to fit knob on potentiometer's shaft.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477333352.jpg Relay http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477333393.jpg |
EDIT: Forgot to include step down in parts list and cannot add it above as character count is max'd out... so adding it here.
Step Down & Noise Suppressor DC-DC Converter Regulator 12V-5V Step Down Power Module USB Output Perfect #02859812 Source: Mini In The Box / $4.99 --- Did not know this was shipping from China when ordered. Took 9 days USPS. Good online tracking. DC-DC Converter Regulator 12V-5V Step Down Power Module USB Output Perfect 2859812 2016 – $4.99 For: Steps car's 12 volt down to 5v power for Arduino. (Do not like that input wires---12v---are close to 26 gauge.) USB with this unit plugs into USB cable connected to Arduino. See website for pic. Finished clay mold. Leather will cover final resin-casted panel. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477409067.jpg Two-part silicone putty used for 2nd casting. Stuff gets kneaded together. Then 3 minute working time. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477409176.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477409205.jpg In 10 minutes, putty turns to rubber---cured enough to release. Packaging advises 24 hour cure before making resin contact. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477409377.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477409402.jpg Window and mounting ledges for Nextion display need to be sorted into final resin-casted panel. Hacksaw'ing window out and dremeling ledges is one way to go. Less messy and perhaps more direct path is to make second silicone mold that joins existing mold. When resin is poured, display window and ledges will be in place. Gona do a java and think this through. . |
Mold for display's window. Will let both parts cure overnight. Tomorrow will bolt them together... then pour resin. Notch at sides of window mold will be ledge on which display mounts. (If you see window mold being off center on panel mold... it is. Is because display screen is off center on it's backing platform.)
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This is fantastic to watch. Thanks to Karl for posting such a great step by step custom project. I really appreciate the ingenuity and generosity of the people on this forum.
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^^^ Apprciate note... TY Hasti!
John's making killer progress on IT side. Believe he'll be posting soon. I'm continuing progress on display panel. Just went through final casting process. Rubber mold was sprayed with a release conditioner. Special attention was given to leveling perimeter of rubber mold all around. (Rubber is sitting on clay feet.) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477516137.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477516151.jpg 4 screws through display area into face panel makes for tighter joint between these parts. Thin mylar is glued to mold's inside walls. Mylar was also sprayed with release conditioner---whether mylar will release poly has to be seen! No worries if not. Fiberglass went in with poly as "rebar." (Mold was created so Nextion 2.8" display should "just" fit into finished panel. This is a mistake. Should have provided some mounting adjustment up/down. This would have enabled easy fine tuning of display/bezel's final position. Should bezel's position need tuning... will now have to Dremel adjust.) With such small parts having to collaborate, 32nds make a difference. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477516350.jpg Mixed 16 fl ozs poly with 80 drops catalyst. Poured approx. 9 fl ozs. Remainder is used to check cure. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477516625.jpg |
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