^^^ Hoistin for ya Ron! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif Great weekend for ya in the Norfland Bro!

Simply clean Karl.

I'm flat bedding the kuehl machine to you so you can wire in my new AEM engine management.

^^^ TY to ya up in NJ! Just looked over AEM's stuff... Very inspiring. Send Kuehlmachine on down---(will finally put eyes on your mysterious zupercharger program.)

I looked at this documentary a while ago... so don't recall if your location is "on the map." Am thinking you're in close proximity if nothing else. If you are not in the mood for a vid-doc on how fooked up things are... don't watch. (Is fracking doc. For the industry to call it "clean energy" is possibly the biggest marketing BS campaign of all time. Not a feel good vid.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xvz_m5uPV4s&feature=youtu.be

Compressor relay. 12v from car and 5v from Arduino will go to this. Relay is mounted inside box on short nylon posts. Will feed wires into opposite sides of box.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964849.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964870.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964882.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964893.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964902.jpg


Console disconnect. 15 pin / 2 row female pin port. (Am not an electrical guy so am learning on the fly here. Looking at this port it seems power and ground could have been done smarter---rather than serving +|- from AC control box panel through multiple wires to this point, +|- could instead have been just 2 wires run from the control box panel to this point. At this port, +|- could then have been bridged across pins as needed. Am questioning now if one way is actually functionally better than another? If anyone can shed some light on this… please do.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964970.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478964984.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478965001.jpg


System harness cable. Will hard-wire this stuff into male side of console disconnect. Individual cables run to: Ambient sensor* | Cabin sensor* | Evap core temp sensor | Relay | Dimmer switch. Is 26 gauge stranded wire stuffed into heat shrink sheath. After shrinking I realized a better look could be achieved by “combing” the wires as they’re fed into sheath. This would also have been nice to do to the cable from control box to console disconnect. Since, in this case, these cables are all hidden, doesn’t matter much. For exposed cable, “comb-feeding” would be a nice touch. (Longer cable---7’---needed to be done in overlapping sheath sections. I tried to rig 1 wire to pull 3 through the sheath but config was too thick for sheath. Feeding as much wire as would go into a sheath then cutting the sheath and starting a new section works fine. Where the sheath overlaps is not noticed unless looking for it.) Ran out of black heat shrink and so the exposed wires that remain to be covered.

* Temp & humidity.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478965131.jpg

Dimmer switch location. Positioning dimmer switch under the dash is doable but is a lean-forward-to-adjust position (for me.) I like the idea of hiding this switch but not at the expense of sensible ergonomics. So a change in plan...

Below is not my '80 dash but a match to it except for stereo. I have exact same 2 available stock switch locations this dash shows. The metal sub-dash is already hole-punched (at least near steering wheel location) so only the cover would have to be punched out. Use a Porsche knob and a switch at either location would finish off looking stock. (What insert to use in a knob can be sorted later.) Putting the dimmer near the steering wheel... makes sense to me...

...Not happening. Potentiometer's thread section and shaft are too short for the thickness of the dash panel. Since potentiometer on hand is the one John built the system model with and it's already proven to work... shopping a replacement pot with specs that will fit dash but might or might not work is not an appealing idea.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478966300.jpg


Now taking mounting surface thickness into consideration... is possible to mimic the intermittent wiper switch location. Use an intermittent knob and this has potential. Doesn't "feel" right to me so more mulling it over. Conclusion is to locate dimmer below and to the left of fuel gauge. Metal is thin enough to accept pot here... good ergos... switch is sort of hidden... and should there be reason to remove it later, hole can be refinished so no visible trace remains.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478966643.jpg

Hello Karl. No need to stick to that pot. Anything else that's a linear pot will work. Something at or above 10K. The pot will act as a voltage divider no matter the ohms and act the same as far as the arduino is concerned.

^^^ Hey John... thanks for note. Will see tomorrow if Master Electronics has pot that will fit stock location in dash.

If you would, take a look at 2nd paragraph ("Console Disconnect") post #124. Am questioning how best to run power & ground---think the way I did it was less efficient than it could have been.

Usually Digi Key is a reasonable source to search and drill down based upon component characteristics you want; and they have pdf specs you can pull up as well.

^^^ Yeah... Digi Key has good variety of stuff, pics and PDFs---and nice filters. Believe existing pots came from DK. If I can get final missing bits from local place this morning... system can bench test this afternoon.

Yes you could have brought in one wire with +5v and one with ground and distribute it inside. However, given all the work you've done so far on the wiring, I would just continue with what you did.

^^^ Thanks for input John. Yeah... gona leave it as is.

Master Electronics did not have 10k pot with longer thread & shaft. Am moving on with pot in hand. Will install below and to left of fuel gauge---ergo is good there and is easy wire feed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479227681.jpg


Harness terminal. Too much heat when soldering melted casing. Tossed this and started over (using alternate soldering technique…)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479227728.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479227738.jpg


Found it works better (for this newb solderer) to melt solder to wire… then position wire in pin cup… then melt solder.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479228340.jpg

Wires (above) are from evaporator temp sensor. Power/red has been spliced to ground at junction (on sensor’s side) so red wire is dead at this point. White is signal wire---runs to Distribution Panel where it splits---one side goes to signal pin at Ard, other side goes through 4.7k resistor to power. Black is ground.

Dead-end red wire from evap sensor is inside port cap. Could have made this cable with 2 wires and saved some grommet space… used 3-wire cable provided with evap’s sensor instead.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479227862.jpg


Harness is almost done. Still need to make and connect a relay cable (“IN2” and Arduino power) to this. Looking at this... realize it's possible evap junction will not fit through bulkhead. As I recall the feed hole for the capillary (in '80 911) is not much bigger than capillary. Perhaps I'm wrong. CG...????

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479227885.jpg


Relay box. Black cable serves Arduino power (VCC) and signal (IN2)---signals compressor ON/OFF. Red cable serves relay non-Arduino power (JD-VCC) and related ground. Exactly what the second power (JD-VCC) line does... I'm not clear on. John, perhaps you would elaborate on this. Plan is to Velcro “nut-side” of box to bulkhead below dash. 12v side has yet to be done. (Will bench-test relay signalling compressor ON/OFF using multimeter.) EDIT: Some rewiring will be done here later. JD-VCC and ground requires 12v wire as opposed to 26 gauge for 5v as is wired here. John's program also specifies "IN1"... not "IN2" for signaling. Eventually these errors will be found and corrected.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479228493.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479228230.jpg

The JD-Vcc is the voltage to power the coil in the relay. It needs +12 V because your relay is +12V.

Vcc is +5V continually fed to the relay optocoupler. IN2 takes the output of the Arduino. To activate the relay, the Arduino output goes low (to ground) which activates the optocoupler, which causes the relay to close.

While this video is for a 5V relay, it explains the inner workings and how I figured out how to wire it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLFQ8sBWc80

Karlicious, here's what I picture when I imagine you waving yer soldering iron (the real one :eek:) around!

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/k8ZcPpnAHYY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


And this, too!!!

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SkoPfV5tjWo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Enlightening... TY John!


20/20 Rono---dats Disc wavin solderrer around :D (Beasty tunes you go for Bro!)


Progress notes...

Display’s contrast control. Making this a Porsche knob located on right side of steering wheel (stock locations seen earlier in thread) seems like a nice idea. But... either of those locations requires reaching into/across the line of sight to the display (in order to control the display!) Left-handed location... much better ergo-sense IMHO.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327317.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327354.jpg


Capillary’s bulkhead passage. Evap sensor wire will pass through here. (Am looking at this to see if cable junction fits through---it doesn’t.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327408.jpg


Bench test. Everything that should work at this stage… works. (Not hooked up at this moment is 12v needed to power relay’s coil. This means whether this relay will actually open & close the compressor’s 12v circuit remains unproven. Am also powering Arduino from laptop here meaning 12-to-5v step-down---that will power Ard once system’s installed in car---also has to prove itself. Get to those later.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327469.jpg
Photos of the display are somewhat off in color & contrast compared to seeing the display
in real time. It looks different/better in real time.


Display with no “reflection control” (and screen contrast dimmed way down.) Shows why display’s final tilt angle is an important part of the program. Whether I hit the correct angle or not has yet to be seen.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327613.jpg


Ambient and cabin temp & humidity sensors. Breathe on these… they know it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327728.jpg


Waterproof evap temp sensor. Is not as quick to pick up temp changes as sensors above. Will reside in evap’s core. As CG mentioned earlier in thread, knowing more about evap temps and low side pressures at evap’s discharge is what inspired this project. (Theoretically, and based on my understanding, what should be seen is 27.8’ish discharge pressure and 32 degrees at evap’s core---ambient not taken into account. Whether this bears itself out in reality is where this is all headed.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327796.jpg


Relay has integrated actuation light to indicate when it receives an ON or OFF signal. Per John’s program, when “Set Temp” is less than Cabin temp (compressor is ON given that one condition)... when evap core temp goes to 32.1 degrees F, system should turn relay/compressor OFF.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327864.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479327874.jpg


Casually playing with temps & settings… seems 1.5 degree hysteresis may be too small a buffer. Will take a more diligent look at what’s happening with hys… perhaps some refinement can be made prior to putting the system on the road. The way John has structured the programming and annotated it, any hys adjustment should be a simple matter for me to reprogram---TY for annotating program John.

Deciding exactly where sensors go is up next.

.

Hysteresis Test Notes:

Goal is to determine what the actual working hys is and whether or not it’s stable (across various temps and settings.) For an ’80 911, this fine detailing can be considered irrelevant… particularly where short drives are concerned. Others have said it...“All I want is cold.” Agreed. Purpose to this fine-fiddling is to understand what the program is doing in reality---got to have this baseline intel in order to make sense now of whatever programming refinements should come. (Dimmer Pot was reconnected to system for this test.*) Test results:

Evap Freeze Prevention:
AC's power consistently turns OFF at 32.1 dF regardless of other settings/temps. This is a priority setting---over-rules all else.

Recovery Hys = 1.1 dF
After freeze prevention shut OFF, power consistently turns ON at 33.2 dF.

When "Cabin" Temp Matches “Set Temp”:
Power consistently turns OFF when “Cabin” temp matches “Set Temp” regardless of "Set Temp" level. (This, provided evap signal has not already turned compressor OFF.)

Recovery Hys = 2 dF
Power consistently turns ON when “Cabin” temp reaches 2 dF above “Set Temp.”

When Adjusting “Set Temp:”
When raising “Set Temp” starting from a level below “Cabin” temp… power consistently turns OFF when “Set Temp” and “Cabin” temp match (regardless of "Cabin" Temp level.)
When lowering “Set Temp” starting from a level above “Cabin” temp… power consistently turns ON 2 dF below “Cabin” temp (regardless of "Cabin" temp level.)

Progress Notes

Stock fan and Temp control switches. Green/white stripe wire going from stock fan-to-temp-switch is disconnected from stock temp switch and will connect to power side of 12-5v step-down---this powers digital system. Outgoing terminal at digital relay gets green wire that disconnected from other terminal at stock temp switch---this powers AC system/compressor. (Incoming power to relay switch has yet to be sorted.) Stock temp switch with capillary gets deleted.

Plan is to keep evap fan blowing even though compressor is signaled OFF but as I think of this wiring config… seems fan will shut down with compressor. Assuming fan will shut down with compressor, need HELP to make fan stay on (while compressor is shut off.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479485380.jpg


Ambient and Cabin sensors. These may see relocation and so Velcro mounts. Unless I’m derailed, will get the 3 sensors installed today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479483373.jpg


Idea to use Loc-Line for AC venting has evolved into a test model. Will run first model off bow-tie outlet.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479483691.jpg

Box is same as was used to house relay.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479483718.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479483755.jpg

Fittings are epoxied to box cover. Hanging threads need to be ground off. There are flow control valves for this system---not bothering with them at this stage.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479483782.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479483794.jpg


* Accurate functionality of digital system requires ALL sensor & control components to be connected. If any one connection fails, failure is signaled by the display reporting incorrect/fluttering data, or display will not go beyond Porsche crest image. (Since the pot for the screen contrast control is now in the car, a substitute was connected to the "bench" for hys testing.)

.

These have nothing to do with project... just interesting stuff.

Bisi-minded 911...

https://youtu.be/1D8oLaCgfL8


Frank-enstiended Lotus. 680 hp 1.8 ltr with supercharged-turbo combo that runs gas and alcohol...

https://youtu.be/HmscSzFurwg

Hello Karl. Just to point out that the program has the hysteresis set at 1.5 degrees for evap and cabin temperature. This value can be easily be changed in the software. You may see 2 degrees for the cabin temp because the screen is outputting integer values. So when the fraction of the temperature is at 1.5 or above the output to the screen is rounded to the next highest integer. The other note is that it takes a second or two for the sensors to have valid temperature values. Thus, you dont have a true continuous reading of the temp and by the time it is measured it may have crossed the 1.5 threshold but the temperature output is already a different value than the threshold value.

^^^ John... Temps did sometimes "jump" a few degrees. I slowed forced-temp-transitions... then measures went degree by degree. 2 dF as opposed to 1.5 hys is fine at this stage---I recall our "integer" discussion. Thought some adjustments would be possible to make concerning hys before installing system in car but nothing stands out.

1.1 dF hys on the evap freeze protection recovery seems an odd number. Since it's consistent... no concern. (Given consistency, I did not look to see what the program dictates in this regard.)

Cabin and evap sensors installed yesterday. Removing the bumper to install the ambient... may not be necessary. Am looking for equally suitable location that offers a simpler install. Is possible underside of front fender in door jam area might work.

Ambient and cabin sensor locations changed from the original position plan. Evap has not changed. New locations made install much simpler. Both temp & humidity sensors are mounted upside down---goal being to minimize dust settling in them. 2 sensors are installed in evap. 2nd is backup.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479574323.jpg

Pre-Install Adjustments

Power and ground wire to relay’s coil is changed from 26 to 16 gauge. Originally thought this should have 5v service. John’s post corrected me on this---needs 12v to service 12v coil. TY John. Rather than remove relay for soldering… leaving it in results in slightly melted switch housings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479660449.jpg


In & out red wires are 12v circuit for compressor ON/OFF. Will likely serve power to this from cig-lighter fuse (since I never use C-L.) Outlet circuit wire will connect to green/white stripe wire that leads away from stock temp & capillary switch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479660579.jpg


Harness was designed thinking I'd find easy passage for cable junctions from cabin through bulkhead and into frunk. Is true if one chooses to pass wires through bulkhead alongside air ducts. Not doing this so a few minor adjustments are made---ambient and evap’s junctions are removed and new prongs installed. Will attach plastic junctions after wires are passed through gromets in bulkhead. Ambient’s sensor-to-junction length is increased (in order to position junction inside frunk rather than in door jam.) Harness is ready to install.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479660745.jpg


Uncombed wire in heat shrink cabling. Combing wires before putting them into sheath would probably result in more appealing look.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479660836.jpg


Started out crimping these 26 gauge junction wire connections with a needle nose... PITA. Got tool to handle these small crimps. Big difference. Believe these are non-solder connectors. If crimp misses wire... it's a waste. Have soldered all these connections---don't want to be hunting for a bad connection when all's said and done. Each was crimped after soldering.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479660990.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479661003.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479661014.jpg

Harness Cables Feeds

Evap sensor cable = fed through capillary grommet.
Ambient sensor cable = cabin cable is fed through bulkhead grommet into frunk at extreme left side under dash and behind a small air duct. Fender cable from sensor is fed through fender grommet into frunk.
12v Power from fuse panel to Arduino relay switch = fed through same cabin bulkhead grommet as ambient cable.
12v power from fuse panel to Arduino relay coil operation = same.
Display contrast control switch cable = same.
Relay box = on cabin bulkhead just ahead of stereo.

Power to Compressor/Relay

What fuse to take power from for the compressor/relay remains in question. Looking at my fuse panel reveals systems this car does not have but fuse panel has them wired: sun roof / rear wiper, fog lights, headlamp washer. Plan to use fog fuse terminal to power relay's coil. Beefier lines are sunroof and headlamp wash... Anyone see a problem with using either of these to power compressor?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479905972.jpg

Karl,

The typical compressor clutch is 3.5 ohms nominal. Assuming, in a perfect world of 12vdc your draw is 3.5 amps, at 13.5vdc your at 4 amps nominal; that's all at the clutch not at where you are supplying the power which is normally at the factory mechanical thermostat.

Assuming the factory circuit wire from the thermostat back to the compressor is a 2,5 mm diameter, say between a 10 and 11 awg, possibly 12 ft max from factory thermostat to compressor area in engine bay, and depending upon the number of strands and turns, you might use a nominal resistance 1.5 ohms per 1000 ft.

On occasion I have see clutches fail to clamp do to resistance issues or voltage drops between the thermostat and clutch.

For S&G (****z and giggles) check your resistance between the factory's solid green wire at the thermostat and the compressor's power wire terminal back by the oil filter.

On "hysteresis", or maybe think of the total system response time in terms of what the user expects. On a system with stock controls and improved condenser and evap fuctions, let's say you have a good system that is pumping out vent temps under 40F on a baking 100F day, and the mechanical thermostat shuts down the compressor because its near or at the freeze point. By the time the compressor starts up again the vent temps can rise up into the 50F's and the recovery time back down under the 40's can take quite a long time. That's using a simple quick acting mechanical thermostat that is in good condition (charge wise).
If you are using a thermistor, and depending upon it's inherent response time plus insulation characteristics around it (encapsulation compound, metal jacket, rubberized coatings, etc.) you might find that 'swing or lag time' at the vents could be lengthy as well which might invite you to reduce the compressor's cycling time. If the on-off-on clutch time is too compact, short duration, the clutch will start to overheat due to friction (clutches 'drag' when they engage). Just something to ponder and test.

CG... Appreciate input and S&G. I'll do this by measuring resistance of "extension wire" (reaching from cabin to compressor power wire) and resistance between multimeter contacts... then connecting it all and measure total resistance... then subtracting the connecting wire and contact resistance. Am saying this because am not an electrical wizard---perhaps I'm doing it wrong. Will post outcome later today.

Evap sensor is waterproof'd with a rubberized coating and so a slight delay in sensing temp changes is evident (compared to other sensors being used.) When system shuts comp OFF at 32.1 dF, way program is currently set... comp turns back on when evap sensor measures a 1.1 dF rise in temp. I see what you're saying in terms of lag---definitely a point of interest. Perhaps you can sort this lag out in your head given your AC experience... I cannot. So will have to experience system operating to determine if & how to adjust program for better performance.

On short city drives (15 minutes or less) as is most common in my case, it's full bore AC all the way. On a Miami > Key West run (with no stops / no opening doors/windows,) enough cabin heat would be flushed out for system to go into a consistent cycling mode. That seems a better "condition" to see how the system cycles.

Let's put mechanical thermostat vs. electronic on the side for the moment.
Lag, not like 'turbo lag'.

The higher the heat load on the evap core, ie. 100F ambients out there, humidity, mid summer sun cooking through the roof and 2500 nominal square inches of glass, 2 occupants pumping out 250+ btu's each... when that compressor clutch disengages and the TEV dribbles down, the evap core quickly rises from, say 32F up to 50F+ cause all that "stuff" is heating up the air flow through the coil. Then, clutch re-engages, pressures build up, TEV starts spewing liquid, liquid changes state to gas, hot air mass gets sucked up by the coils' fins and things start to get cooler at the vent again. But it ain't gonna happen quickly. That's why you are having fun here, right ?

Commonly, thermo sensors alike what you are using, are usually rated in response time based on a thermal bath in oil, time rated in seconds.

Unless your algorithm (program) can compensate, you need a different evap core sensor, the term is "thin film" aka TFTC.
Then, you want to account for 'wetting'. Ideally you are measuring a surface or air temp in the evap core fins.
The issue is moisture wetting on the sensor. The moisture affects the surface or air temp reading (evaporation of the water on the side for the moment).

Yes. Am curious to see inter-relation between cabin and evap environments. How long will a near-freeze evap take to turn back on given the conditions this one is operating under?---We're gona find out.


Interesting stuff... TY. Right now there's no algorithm compensation to deal with what you're referring to. This is high end thinking on your part that you know I admire. It's intricate stuff that will take some learning on my part and subsequent evolution of the system. John could surly have programmed greater operating complexity but it fell on my shoulders to make the decision on how the system would initially operate. Basically the idea was to get a fundamental baseline running---then see what might be done in regards to refinement. ...It's all experimental.

Resistance Check- Set everything up to check green cabin wire to compressor power and discovered my peepsqueekmultimeter (GB GMT-312) was not up to resistance checking. Volts and continuity is as far as it goes. Will buy into upgrade after TG.

Well, you got evap inlet temp, evap metal core temp, evap box outlet temp, and vent outlet temp.
Then you got ambient temp, cockpit temp (top and bottom), cfm rate, humidity,
the sun (E36 Y Factor).


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479940488.jpg

^^^ Upgrade arrived early... Just need to read instructions, then will join Kuehlemon resistance movement.


Progress notes...

Anticipated vibration doing slow disconnect on serial ports...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110158.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110257.jpg


12-5v Step Down arrived from China Wednesday. Took 9 days via tracked postal service.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110308.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110341.jpg

Would not have ordered this StepDown had I known it was coming from China---cloaking China part orders seems to be on the increase. No cultural prejudice here. Just want stuff sooner than later.

Side road: For China interested… wonderful country with warm people (as I experienced them.) On the street, no half-English-help is available to get around. And forget about reading signage---it’s all abstract art. Recommendation for fellow Pelicangringos… do China as a tourgrouper.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110502.jpg
Beijing sidewalk. Looking for tall blonde China babe is easy. Finding one is not.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110568.jpg
On tributary off Yangtze.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110624.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110662.jpg
House of warriors in Xi'an.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110797.jpg
Was told ambient-buffet is for local guts… gringo’s can go down-for-the-count quick & hard on this fare. Whether true or not… there was too much China to see to risk spending my days bunked.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480110838.jpg

Step Down’s 12v-side wires. They’re similar to 26 gauge am using for 5v. Not what I expected to see.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111402.jpg


Connecting skinnies like this to heavier gauge (fan switch) wires causes me some concern---I know narrowing path for electrons = not a good idea. Opened Step-Down to see if internal connections offer ability to swap heavier gauge into unit. Not looking good---might screw things up trying a wire swap. Will do evil and connect mismatched wires. Must remember to check wire temps during operation. If even slightly warm… will deal with it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111483.jpg


Stock thermo switch with capillary… no longer part of AC system.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111520.jpg


Harness wires as they stand at moment. Everything is connected but for relay’s ground (and USB power to Arduino.) Will hook AC control box to this tomorrow...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111596.jpg


Power through relay switch for compressor is now connected to “Sun Roof / Rear Wiper” fuse terminal. (There’s no power serving this fuse unless ignition is ON. There were two stock wires connected to that fuse’s service side---both are now disconnected.) Relay’s coil power is connected to “Cig Lighter” terminal. (There’s also no power serving this fuse unless ignition is ON. Cig lighter wire is disconnected.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111707.jpg


Disconnected Sun Roof / Rear Wiper and Cig Lighter wires. Appear to be stock given “blocked” ends. (Two black disconnects were in Sun Roof / Rear Wiper fuse. Blue is Cig Lighter.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111740.jpg


Loc-Line installed on bow-tie outlet. No simple matter to neatly adjust these vent's positions given them being on 12" boom. Since I rarely touch “bow-tie”… doesn’t matter in my case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480111832.jpg
Light inside vents are reflections oddly exaggerated by camera.


Wasn’t going further with LL plumbing than install on bow-tie outlet, but am liking this stuff so moving ahead with side vents---will do whatever is necessary to adjust air flow when time comes. Starting with driver’s side, have explored a few different paths. Preferred solution is to use flasher’s hole. Hole happens to be close (but not perfect) fit for ¾” LL plumbing. May seem an odd vent location but positioning it here is simple, clean looking, and there’s no chopping dash up. Fit of LL in hole is tight enough so no need to secure plumbing to dash. Nozzle can be directed with relative ease. How to connect this plumbing to car has yet to be sorted.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112103.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112155.jpg
Applied mild heat to dash to minimize those two punctures next to hole.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112166.jpg
Formally, the proboscis vent. Rono, know you're thinking in an alternative vein.

When flasher’s out… turn signals don’t work. Might be other things not working as well. Reconnected it and stuffed it up under dash.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112800.jpg


Module fits female one way only.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112852.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112876.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480112920.jpg

In-Car Test – Found stock junction in smugglers not connected well---terminals were not in plastic housing. Had to push terminals into housing and so into each other... one by one. (Think age is getting to all this stuff. Is ’80. Admire you guys keeping even earlier cars in shape.)

Different fan speeds, sensors, Set Temp, and contrast adjustment… all working. Only item not doing so is relay---is not switching 12v to compressor wire. Checked current input across relay board and all's good---both 5v and 12v. Spoke with John. He asked if relay clicked. It doesn’t. Plan is to pull relay and move signal wire to operate second switching module. Maybe first module is bad.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480252680.jpg

Relay.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480252692.jpg


Air volume from LL vents (off bow-tie outlet) is less than expected. Clearly it's going to take some time to tune flow among all the vents.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480252778.jpg


Scuff marks in console’s leather are touched up with Sharpie. Leather is treated with Dr. Jackson’s.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480252837.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480252865.jpg


Stock holes that join AC control box to console are usable. Speed nuts used to be here. Going with 10-24 screws & rubber washers instead. Console is tapped... screw will drive through console but sit loosely in box. Idea is to keep box from slowly vibrating out of console. Screw is like deadbolt.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480252929.jpg
Checking loose fit of screw in box's hole to see how much registration accuracy
there needs to be when inserting box into console.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480253093.jpg
10-24NC can be driven into console's existing hole by hand.

.

Relay issue - Changed wires to use 2nd switch and it too is not switching (to provide power to compressor.) Once again checked all wires for required voltage... all there. Have order 2nd relay.

Karl,
new relay failure.... what are the odds?
what are those funky jump pins for on the relay board?

^^^ Yeah... odds are way out there CG, but possible. Is also possible I fried it. If so, is small-fry stuff---a minor delay & easy fix. Pins are elec connections. Could put wires into terminals that insert onto those pins. Because I put disconnects for all relay wires outside the relay's box, I soldered all wires to those pins.

While project is in suspended animation awaiting new relay, am into resistance movement today---large gin in hand for ya http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif... this is new territory for me... TY

Did you see fracking vid? (Seems there are significant ramifications for NE's water table---which is why I shared vidlink with you. Gas industry promotes their product as "clean energy"---In reality it's an environmental disaster unfolding before us. Am not one to focus on bad news however in this case, the natural gas sector has to be recognized for what they're doing. Pardon this heading into rantland but this qualifies as a significant heads-up for anyone that drinks... water.)

The fracking thing.....

Most people, outside of the gas and oil exploration and production industry, are completely unaware of how their energy is gotten and the true 'cost'. Most have no clue as to the damage to land and the water supply. Things are not just F'd up here in the east, check out this Fracking America

Thank you to the Bushes, Cheney and Halliburton.

I grew up in a town with a water supply completely contaminated from 120 yeas of DuPont. There were many cancers and they continue today. The land is still polluted and will be forever; just like Love Canal. Because of politics/lobbying it will remain so. Just follow the money.

And, I thought our generation would make a difference.

You're not alone in this.

What to do? Can't keep head in sand---talking to myself here.

You are getting into PARF Charlie. Fracking has been going since on before Bush Jr. was even born. It is not a perfect thing but it done way deeper than ground water. It is a complex issue and has nothing to do with the a 911 technical site.

Oh.
Gee!
Really?

Lions and tigers and bears. Oh mY!


Karl. I apologize for fin'g up your thread by answering your question you asked... on your thread.

CG... resistance is 0.3 based on 200 setting on multi. If you would explain what this means... much appreciated.

1 = Probes touching
2 = Probes + extension wire
3 = Probes + extension + green wire from T-switch back to power wire at compressor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480369559.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480369559.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480369559.jpg

Karl,

I don't know squat about electrons, negative runs to positive.

I'm guessing 200 might mean up to 200k ohms and 2000 might mean 2000 ohms ?

Most meters, read 0 (zero) when you have the unit set to continuity, ohms or resistance.
and you are only touching its 2 probes together, (keep your friggin fingers off the contacts).


Anyway... Let's get out the User's Manual.

Glen... I know you to be inclined to staying on point. With respect, will ask that you tolerate the few side roads taken. (Knowing Charlie's local I thought he---and perhaps others---would be interested in fracking vid. China pics that related to China order I placed... posted them for those who might be interested seeing a glimpse of the country.) I'm with you on this being a tech forum. To back that up, would like to think I make sound deposits in our Porsche-brain-bank. At same time am inclined to believe we should offer the brotherhood here a little bit more than pure tech---my reason being to keep things from being overly one dimensional.

If there's widespread discontent with my wanderings, let me know.