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Wont go in to reverse or fifth gear all of a sudden.
I was driving my 75 911 on the highway, nothing aggressive, engine running well, temperature outside was mid 70s and mechanically seems to be otherwise normal. I was switiching to 5th gear from 4th and it felt like it went in to 3rd gear instead. I switched back to 4th gear and then tried again but still no matter how much I pushed to the right it would only go in to 3rd gear. Normally the transition from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th is predictable and typical of these cars but today something all of a sudden changed. There was no grinding or sudden jerking movements. Just did not go in to 5th like it was supposed to. Down shifting to 3rd seemd a bit off as well because it makes me push further to the right than usual to engage. Downshifting from 2nd to 1st is normal. But when I got home and tried to back up in to the garage, I could not get it in to reverse. No matter how many times I tried, it does not work. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
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Sounds like your coupler is a bit loose. Try to readjust to get the gears back
Ernie |
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Thanks. Is there a good article on how to adjust the coupler?
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Reiver
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 57,448
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The coupler under the vent in the back seat footwell. Look in the Pelican tech articles you'll find it.
You may need to replace the coupler bushings....very common issue given the age of the parts.
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Ok thanks. Is this a pretty easy DIY job? I realize that answer depends on my abilities but for reference I'm decent with tools and willing to learn but I generally leave big jobs for the mechanic.
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winter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Vail
Posts: 1,687
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You can do this one. Lots of info on the forum about this and a good tech article - as mentioned above - to guide you on this journey. No special tools needed either.
Pelican sells the bushings and they're cheap. Go for it! |
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The ball cup under the shifter will disintegrate and cause all sorts of problems. If the coupler is worn out you should do all the plastic bushings and ball cup at the same time, removing the center console and shifter is not hard but plan on it taking 4 hours and every kind of screwdriver and metric nutdriver you have.
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![]() I know pic is sideways, this information is from Bentley manual. If Bushing is shot you obviously will need a new one. Good Luck, Tim |
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And while your replacing the ball cup don't forget to change the shift rod coupler bushing while you have it apart. Take your time and you will be shocked with the results
Ernie
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----------------------------- Ernie 81 SC Last edited by emac; 09-18-2016 at 04:00 AM.. |
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Thanks for all the motivation. I will give it a shot.
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Good luck! I'm getting ready to do the same thing. I've got an '89 3.2 with some pretty sloppy shifting.
I'm also going to install a JWest short shift kit. beren Last edited by beren; 09-18-2016 at 04:54 AM.. |
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Bland
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Hang on - if it was working and it stopped it could be one of a few things...
Check your motor and Trans mounts first. If the engine has shifted to the one side, it will make shifting impossible on one gate (1-2 or 5-R). The next likely thing is the plastic inserts in the shift coupler. Then check the plastic cup in the shifter.
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Quote:
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Registered
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Upper Midwest
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There are four engine/trans mount bolts. Two in each rear corner of the engine bay. You can see/access these from the top. You may be able to feel underneath to see if there is a gap between the engine carrier they bold into and the car body. The other two are in the transmission carrier. You will need to get under the car and see if there is a gap between the carrier and car body (I have see pics of this happening). Note that people have cross threaded/stripped the mounting holes for the trans mount bolts, so careful.
There are two smaller bolts that hold each mount/bearing itself. Very easy to see in the engine bay. If the mounting bolts are not the problem, you should look at the bushings etc in the tunnel. It would be advisable to look at these no matter what. And if looking at them you may as well replace since they are not that expensive. See pics below. #61 is the coupler which has two bushings. You can replace the whole coupler, or just the bushings. Either way, the OEM parts seem to have a lot of slop in them, so an aftermarket upgrade may be better. There are LOTS of threads on the coupler, I suggest you read up. Hope this helps and hopefully other more knowledgeable than I will chime in. ![]() ![]()
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93nav, thanks for the detailed reply. I am going to check out the engine/trans mounts in the morning to see if anything looks loose or if there are gaps.
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I don't see any gaps and the engine and transmission move as expected with the rest of the car as I jack up the car from the engine. Does this mean it's the coupler/bushings?
Last edited by plexiform; 09-19-2016 at 11:23 AM.. |
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mikl911
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 195
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Broken syncro or dog teeth jammed in 5th or reverse gears will do this also, ask me how I know. I hope it is just a coupler issue.
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
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FWIW, once adjusted and working, the shift coupler requires no further periodic adjustment. If shift selection issues occur down the road, it's probably due to wear in the linkage bushings (lever, front of shift tube and/or shift coupler), or elsewhere. It can be re-adjusted to some extent, but it's only temporary compensation for excessive wear in the above linkage and related areas.
Sherwood |
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The shifter coupler/bushing were not worked on recently at all or ever as far as I know. The motor and transmission mounts were replaced with rebel racing semi solid mounts just recently. I've never adjusted the coupler or replaced bushings before so I am trying to read about it and then attempt it for the first time. All the responses are much appreciated as any bit of info helps. If there is a video out there somewhere that would be invaluable to me. I wish someone took the 101 projects for your 911 book and made a video version of it. I'd pay a premium for that.
Last edited by plexiform; 09-19-2016 at 07:45 PM.. |
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