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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: des moines, iowa usa
Posts: 35
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Hello all,
I have a real dilemma here. Bought a new-used front hood for my '71. Got it painted and bolted it lightly to the hinges and installed the catch at the front. Closed the lid to fine tune the alignment before tightening the bolts on the hinges. Got it shut, pulled the release in the cockpit, and nothing happened. The knob stayed out like the catch was disengaged but hung up on something, I'm assuming the post of the hood catch. O.K., so I've tried pushing around on the hood to shift the catch post in hopes of freeing it. No luck. I've tried shoving the post with thin screw drivers, putty knives, etc., put a piece of wire around behind the catch and pulling on it at every angle like there's no tomorrow. Tried cutting the post with a sawz-all, but the blade just rides on the spring sleeve of the post. I've used every curse word in my vocabulary and nothing is working to get this open. Any and all ideas will be appreciated at this point as my battery has fallen over and can't get up. So acid is slowly disolving my suspension pan. Please, somebody provide me with an epiphany here. I'm at my wits end and the thought of all that acid in there is keeping me awake at night. TIA, Marty |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,497
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Marty, you really are jammed up. I think this is a two person operation. One to fool with the hood while the other tries to get the pull knob to work. Two thoughts, first is the hood up in the back where the hinges are? If so, try pushing down there while the other person operates the knob, pushing it in and trying to pull it out. Next, did you try pushing down with pressure right above the latch while the other person works on puling and pushing the knob in and out? From what you describe is sounds like the angle of the catch post is keeping the latch from releasing. Good luck. By the way, I think I'm going to be up your way for Thanksgiving.
Kurt V 72 911E |
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Guest
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I did exactly the same thing with my Beetle once. I didn't have the added battery problem (it's a gel cell under the back seat), but what I did was remove the glove box, which enabled me to grab hold of the cable operating the front hood latch, and with a great tug and lots of swearing, the hood popped open.
Now, hopefully the 911 has a similar set up, that is, the pull for the hood catch is in the glove box, which is removable to gain access to some more of the system. I'm still a 911 wannabe, so I don't know for sure. As for the battery, see if you can somehow get some baking soda in there to neutralize the acid while you get the hood sorted out. Good luck! |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: des moines, iowa usa
Posts: 35
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Robh, Unfortunatly the cable runs from the drivers side, however I think I am going to pump some sort of baking soda solution into the trunk to slow down the acid attack. Thanks for your reply! Anybody else have ideas?
Oh yeah Kurt, We spent the first couple of weeks trying the pushpullshove technique. Give me a shout when you're in the area. Marty |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
Posts: 22,792
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Hi Marty.
I checked out my front hood before I put it back on after a repaint and dicovered the front latch is a "fail open" design. So if you can disconnect, or even cut the cable at the latch inside the car you will be able to get the hood up. Try the other ideas first to save you buying a new cable. But don't panic the hood will open. And even after you have cut the cable you may need to slip a peice of soft wood under the hood to lever it up. Disclaimer: I just noticed your car is an early 911, this latch was on my '79 so your car may be a bit different. Bill. |
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That is what you call having your tits in a wringer.
I once looked at a 356 that had a the hood cable break. I asked the owner how he got it open, he said "you don't wan't to know". He smiled, and didn't tell me. I assume his solution involved a crow bar, but any damage had been repaired. Then, as a precautionary measure he had drilled a hole through the inner fender inside the wheelwell. Then he looped a wire around the latch, drew the wire through the hole in the fender, and let it hang inside the wheelwell with a grab hook. This as a failsafe just in case it should ever happen again. Bet you wish I told you that story before you installed the new latch. But now, here you are. I don't have an early car so I can't go look at the latch setup for you. But I can speculate that it MAY be possible to drill a hole through your inner fender and use a fish wire to reach in and hook that latch. Later you can either plug the hole with a rubber grommet, or use it as a fail safe as this 356 owner had done. Now remember, I didn't say this would be easy. If it doesn't work, you can wait a few more weeks for the acid to eat through your front pan, then reach in through the hole and undo the latch ![]() ------------------ ![]() [This message has been edited by Clark Griswald (edited 10-16-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,570
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http://pub31.ezboard.com/fearly911sregistryfrm2.showMessage?topicID=103.top ic
The above link may be of help. Obviously, you're not the first guy to have the problem. Latch adjustment is pretty critical on early 911's. the pull the front bumper suggestion seems good in your case? Maybe go for loosening the rear hinges? [This message has been edited by pwd72s (edited 10-16-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: des moines, iowa usa
Posts: 35
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Thanks for the suggestions folks. pwd72s, that link really describes my situation.
Is there anything I can remove in the dash area to gain access to the hood hinges. I like the idea of loosening the bolts to get some play there. Doesn't the bumper on the early cars bolt from inside the trunk itself? I appreciate all the help here! Marty |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,570
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The other string had a post by Roland, suggesting removal of the heater hose to get to the rear hinges. How would you get to the rear hinges? The left, maybe through a gauge hole...but on the right? John? Warren? Any ideas? Edit...bumper bolts can be reached from the outside.
[This message has been edited by pwd72s (edited 10-17-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,570
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Just back from the garage...now I'm not sure about the bumper being able to be removed from the outside. John, Warren? Sorry, but I'm now out of thoughts on this.
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well in the bentley manual they have a procedure for your prob.
It involves taking off the bumper, drilling a hole and makeing a wire hook to fish the wire out... I do not have the betley manual on hand, but maybe someone with it can scan the pages for you... |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bristol, VT USA
Posts: 334
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I've seen directions for unlocking the front latch. I believe they're in the factory service manuals, maybe also in one of the Up Fixin' Der Porsche books too. I'll try to find my books (still in boxes - just moved). They give an exact location to drill a hole from which you can actuate the latching mechanism. Anybody else have a set of factory manuals they can check?
Charlie |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: des moines, iowa usa
Posts: 35
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I don't have the Bentley manual yet, so I would love to see what they or any other resource prescribes for this ailment. If anyone out there can scan that page for me, I would be forever grateful. Hope to hear soon. Acid doesn't sleep.
Thanks again everyone, Marty [This message has been edited by joesplace62 (edited 10-17-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: des moines, iowa usa
Posts: 35
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Good morning all, Happy to report we had success last night with the stubborn front hood!
One tool made it all possible. Several years ago I ran across one of those devices doctors use to look inside peoples rear ends with. Kinda disgusting when you think about it, but very useful for looking inside your engine without opening it up. The prode fits right through the spark plug hole or a manifold port or drain plug or whatever. Gives a great view without disassembly. We were able to get a look at the catch, determine what direction it needed to shift and with a few well placed blows and some tension on the catch release cable she popped right open. Turns out the rubberized undercoating I sprayed in the trunk did a very good job of protecting the metal from the acid that leaked of the battery. Almost no damage at all. Thanks to all who responded to my cry for help, and if anyone needs to use the scope, drop me a line and we'll see what we can do. Thanks again, Marty |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
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Moderator
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Well done for figuring it out! Excellent lateral thought to use the, uh, probe too.
Quote:
Cam |
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