Int. Thermostat removal. Remove whale tail 1rst?

[Junkbone]

Okay,....the tail stays. But...I have searched the Intergalactic Web high and low. Many threads here and elsewhere, but none giving a definitive answer. I need to replace the o-ring seal on my internal thermostat. (88 Carrera 3.2) and keep coming across threads about engine removal to do this minor oil leak fix. I mean, I've never done this before but the thing is right there! I can see it. Am I missing something? Or can the thermostat not be pulled out by just moving the airbox and actuator out of the way? Like I said...am I missing something? Thanks

[75 911s]

What makes you think you have to replace the o-ring on your thermostat?

I'm in the middle of doing this now and to get to that so called "Triangle of death" area, you need to remove the entire CIS,and the shroud, and everything that blocks it. So A/C and heater blower etc. It's not a simple job. Your 88 would be easier to do an engine drop. Are you having a leak from that area?

[Junkbone]

Yes leaking a bit I think. I just replaced the oil pres sender and it seems to be dry but it's wet all around it and the thermostat. Thanks for the forewarning. I was really hoping someone would say..10 minute job....let your wife do it.

[RSTarga]

Check your oil breather hose to make sure the clip is tight, clean up, and then see if the problem appears again.

[Arne2]

On a 3.2 you can change the o-ring without heroic measures. I removed the air box, maybe the AFM too, I can't remember. Did the o-ring, sender and breather gasket as well. Be very careful pulling the thermostat housing, my o-ring was very brittle and it would have been easy to have a piece fall in ther.

[ganun]

Carrera do not have CIS, So it's a lot easier.....remove the air filter box and do it by feel with a 10mm socket.

[Junkbone]

RSTarga. Thanks, I'll check that. It's not a huge leak so maybe it is coming from there. I'm getting maybe a half dollar size puddle on the ground only after driving long enough to get the car fully up to temp. Seems to be starting up top,moving down and dripping next to the bottom of the oil cooler. Thank you others too! that sounds more like what I was hoping for!

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by RSTarga

Check your oil breather hose to make sure the clip is tight, clean up, and then see if the problem appears again.

+1, to id the culprit, if could be one of 3 items ( actually 4 , including the hose at the breather)

Clean up and place blue shop paper towels in the suspect area/s, folding it couple of time to squash it in there then drive her until hot.

Remove towels and see where it is coming from.

You do not have to drop the engine but you may consider a partial drop, disconnect coupler and remove the engine support bolts andd lower her 4-6 inches or just enough to get your head in there after removal of the Heater blower motor and air box. Caveat when you lower, either remove AC or remove adjuster bolt, it will hit the chassis.

Did this many times this way, but engine removed is the most opportune time to do it.

[911obgyn]

I did mine on a 3.2 removed afm and replaced the rubber coupler between plenums breather hose and all the rubber bits behind the throttle body. Ended up taking intake manifold off and replacing gaskets, it was easy to clean it good then.

[mo-mon]

As Draco said, do a partial drop. Procedure found in the tech articles.

Take out AFM & air cleaner box as a unit-less bolts to remove.

If you prefer to leave the compressor in situ, lower the engine till the compressor almost hits the engine mount. You won't be able to put your head all the way in so use a mirror to help you.

Good luck!

[Junkbone]

Just wanted to update this post for future viewers that may be worried about the complication level of this job. After receiving my new o-ring from our host, I removed the air filter box with attached AFM and unplugged actuator wires. (I believe it was 2 10mm nuts and a straight screw driver for a hose clamp). This gave me plenty of room to reach in and remove the two 10mm nuts holding the thermostat housing to the case. I couldn't wiggle the thermostat out by hand so I used an old screw driver that I bent the tip on to pry up with. Popped right out. Replacement was just the reverse. Total time was about 30 minutes without the scary sounding partial engine drop. leak seems to be fixed. Hope this helps