What is the issue? Does the plasti dip bleed under the masking tape so you don't get a clean edge or does it pull off when you go to remove the masking tape?

The plasti-dip pulled up in some places (not too many), but mostly the tape left a sticky residue on the plasti-dip. I tried several things on a test piece to see how they would release the stickiness as well as how they impacted the plasti-dip. Most solvents were a problem for the plasti-dip. Ultimately the solution was elbow grease and some brushed on touch ups.

The lines were excellent, though.

I made a short Facebook live video, showing where I am currently on the ITB+ project, over the Holidays, and just posted it to YouTube.

https://youtu.be/Ih-zE3B55Uc

and now... straight outta Mt. Vernon

One more round of adjustments and throttle bodies are on their way to see me, from Al's garage to mine!

I might just make the next cars and coffee here in Columbia SC.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1483788422.jpg

Another package from Al arrived today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008763.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008811.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008862.jpg


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I have a couple stubborn studs on the driver's side that I'm fighting. I think I'll have first fire before the weekend.

beautiful.

An option for mounting your ECU /relay array.
POINTS TO CONSIDER :
- My seats are Kirkey fixed seats , so the ecu is actually mounted with industrial Velcro to a plate in between the REAR seat depressions.It can be lifted out to the door sill when I need to connect it to the laptop.
- Notice the 2-3 feet of cable slack to allow it to move a bit.
If your seat back is foldable you may not need to worry about this.
-Make sure your grounds are beyond reproach.
-my relay panel is crowded,I should re do it.

Good luck ,watching with interest.
PS would a partial drop give you a bit more room ? maybe help you work in the "box" a bit easier.

[http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484015378.jpg

These ITB threads are killing me. I have a perfectly good stock setup on my 3.6, but seeing and hearing these things is making me very impractical.

Those wheels will look good on a black car.

Price out everything to change it over, and that will help you resist..

It's definitely an emotion/passion fueled decision. In addition to the cost for the parts, the opportunity cost associated with depreciation on a low mileage bone stock car makes this very much not a logical financial excercise. Don't get me wrong, I've definitely justified it in my mind, but I've known me long enough to not really be fooled.

In all seriousness, part of the reason I bought a late 80's 911 in good shape was to allow me to tweak it year over year with less worry about having to fix serious issues. Its a great way for me to quench an OCD issue and do things exactly the way I want (no committees, no ROI, only self imposed deadlines...).

So, obviously, I'd just dive in and do it! More pictures soon.

Once you have gone public with your thirst for ITBs, you are already too far gone.

Much progress today, culminating with the first startup and idle.

I have two issues that I'm chasing down - searching has not answered them yet so....

1) there seems to smoke (but it does not have an electrical smell, or much of any smell) coming from somewhere around the glove box. I've only run at idle for maybe 30 seconds 3 times. The "smoke" goes away after I turn the car off, and it did not appear when I had the AEM ECU on for setup, nor when I was cranking it with the injectors and fuel pump off for ignition sync. I now think it has something to do with plugging the fuel line vacuum hose in the engine bay. Any thoughts?


2) my idle is around 3500 rpm. I'm crawling through a saved session and the AEM manual to see how to proceed. Any thoughts would be useful, but I suspect this is just more reading on my part.

My guesses are:

1) check fuel pump, jump the relay to run the pump and see if that causes the smoke

2) Probably a linkage issue, try adjusting/lengthening the linkage between the bellcrank and crossbar to lower the idle

That was quick.

Probably not the fuel pump, it's been running periodically (20 or 30 times) with ignition on while setting up the ECU. But I'll double check.

I'm going to double check the TPS calibration and the butterfly position with no throttle

Phil,
Set the basic idle using the throttle stop screw on the ITBs. This is basically the same procedure for carbs or EFI/ITBs. Disconnect the drop links from the front of the ITBs, so that they can be adjusted separately and not affect each other thru the crossbar. Using the main throttle stop screws, adjust the idle to 1000 RPM or so. I have balanced the flow on the bench, so they should be pretty close, choke to choke.....but this will need to be checked to ensure best performance. Do you have a flow meter? I can email you a guide for balancing these, if you are not familiar with the process. (If you've done Webers, etc.....it is pretty much the same procedure. except with the S3 ITBs you are using the adjustment between the butterfly shafts to balance the flow.)

regards,
al

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484440785.JPG

Phil,
Not sure what your smoke problem might be....but the Rasant ECU doesn't wire up to anything in the glove box area. Have you figured out what is causing that issue?

regards,
al

At first I thought possibly I had made a mistake wiring into the Tach (I know, not quite glove box area, but couldn't think of anything else). I have ruled that out.

I'm going to do more investigation on the next start and idle - fire extinguisher in hand! But, like I said, definitely not a smoke or ozone smell.

get in synch
 

1st.....I forgot to say....congratulations on your first fire up. .......Feel free to email me if you have questions regarding ITB balancing/tuning etc. You might want to buy or borrow one of these synchrometers (flow meter style). These are relatively inexpensive ($40 or so) and are invaluable for setting/blancing carbs/ITBs. I've used one of these to balance your ITBS on the bench.....so you should need only to set the side-to-side balance to the proper idle.....but engines are different than the bench and to really dial it in...I recommend one of these.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484442103.jpg

So, no issues with smoke in the cabin any longer - I think it may have been PB Blaster burning off various parts of the engine - or something - and making it's way into the open passenger side window. Regardless, I'll keep an eye out but it appears to be an issue no longer.

New issue - just noticed - the tach in the car is not working. I connected the tach wire from the AEM to the black/violet wire running forward from under the driver's side seat. So tracking that down now.

High idle seems to be throttle related, but still track it down.

That will do it. I have a flow meter and can balance them side to side.

Hard to be happier.

Phase 1 of the ITB project is complete. I'll post some pics and a video link.

The tach issue was a rookie mistake: the AEM Infinity must have it's Tach output setup and it needs to match the 1988 tachometer's need - which I found on Pelican, but for anyone reading this in the future, the AEM needs an output set for Tacho and that output is 3 pulses per revolution.

I fixed the sluggish throttle release with a heavier spring helping to pull the new bell housing back to closed throttle. Pictures to come, but I got the idea from Clay.0's thread.

I have a good bit more to do on getting the throttle bodies balanced from side to side, and phase 2 of this project will take me into the first phase of tuning.

All and all, it's hard to happier. The second drive around the block was uneventful, with a couple of backfires at ~3000 RPM and off throttle, but she drove quite well.

I clearly need to get a tune on it to make a judgement on the seat-of-pants difference, so that is coming.

ITB bug
 

I've been busy street tuning - learning a lot and getting things basically dialed in using David Borden's Excel workbook (which has been a huge help, by the way). Today I'm starting to trees the acceleration and deceleration trims (as you can see from the latest log screen shot).

I've been using MAP as the X axis and am thinking I need to either switch to TPS, or a blended/multi map approach. I'm not quite sure how that will work yet, with the AEM Infinity, but it appears to support it. Any thoughts on that would be useful.

As a side note, the sound is awesome and this setup was a hit at our local Cars and Coffee.

The red line on the graph is RPM. The lower graph is Lambda target (yellow) and Lambda1 (green). Clearly more to do, but trust me, it's come a long way in a week!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...61da09f372.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

ITB bug
 

More progress...



I've switched over to TPS instead of MAP for engine load on the VE table and that has made a noticeable difference in how the motor runs. Also, it helps to install the brake booster vacuum check valve in the correct orientation (oops).



I am now down to targeting a couple of awkward TPS / RPM regions on the VE map and beginning to tune for cold start. After that, I'll start working on wall wetting fuel trims based on rate of throttle change.



I'm going to need to validate my AFR targets - from all I have read, the should be on the rich side for our air filled engines.



And... once that is all complete, I'll visit a dunk (DYNO - not a dunk; auto correct) to start truing to find more power - in particular through ignition advancing.



Here are some pictures. I'll post a youtube link for sound shortly.





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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485465593.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485465593.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485465593.jpg

Great work! When I was tuning my ITB / ECU setup I found the off idle part the most tricky. Basically you want to turn off the acceleration enrichment and try and get the fuel cells as near to the AFR you want. Then turn on acceleration enrichment to sort out the off idle lean spike. I use a DTA ECU, I guess it may be called something else on the AEM system.

More progress this weekend.

Embarrassingly enough, the best improvement was finding that I had a loose coupling in the throttle linkage. It was just loose enough to create some play that made the throttle feel more sluggish than I had anticipated. Once tightened up, the throttle feels amazingly quick to react and acceleration is fantastic, especially in mid to high RPMs.

Here's a video...

https://youtu.be/BFN-skXFVho

nice job Phil.................all of you that are on the fence about upgrading your 911 to an EFI/ITB system, look at how Phil has so quickly installed and tuned his new system. He took the time to research, read, and learn and that dedication, combined with good DIY skills/patience made this a successful project. Phil contacted me a time or two with good questions regarding tuning, but it was 99.9% him.

I know that there is still tweaking to do, but congrats.

regards,
al

Al Kosmal
the x-faktory
koz@x-faktory.com
RGruppe #669
X-Faktory - Home

From what I can tell, it drives really nice. With the jumpy MAP, increasing the vacuum log vacuum might dampen the pulses. I was impressed even with the jumpy map, how smooth your AFR's remained. Is there a lot of smoothing used on your MAP settings?

Great job on having it turned around in only 1.5 months running that good!

The Pelican boards and some timely, key input from Al paved the way.

As for the MAP sensor, Tippy, I decided to go with TPS as the Y axis (load) on the VE table, while maintaining MAP for ignition and fuel. This has an effect of blending TPS with MAP (as it was explained to me by a guy from AEM). I'm probably only at ~40% saturated in my understanding of what the AEM Infinity can do for me, but the out-of-the box settings for most things, after configuration, has been quite good.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Could you not drill between the bores of the adapter plate and then tap a vacuum line fitting into the middle bore....that way you would only need one vacuum line from each bank.

It's been awhile since I last posted. The car is driving great, and I continue to tinker with the tune. Eventually I will get to a dyno tomtune the ignition timing. My only issue currently is sluggish summer time cold starts.

I have nearly popped the top off one of the filter socks, so while that is on order I did some research and fabricated some velocity stack screens. Brief video link attached (https://youtu.be/8UKGT4UhEU4).

ITB bug
 

It's been about 1 year since I ordered the parts and about 9 months since I started tuning.



I finally found a place to get the car on a dyno and get some help from the pros. Let me make a big shout out to Cody and his team at Black Forest Racing in Denver, NC (just outside of Charlotte). I was like a kid in a candy shop.



The car made peak HP at the rear wheel of 199.47 @ 5370RPM and more impressively, 210.9 lbft of torque at 4157 RPM. They did a great job of fixing my VE table and flattening out the AFR curve as well as dialing in an aggressive, but safe, ignition map.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510956256.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1510956256.jpg



And a short video for extra fun: https://youtu.be/D7E1lq3jvcE

nice work phil.

regards,
al

Looking good!