What is the issue? Does the plasti dip bleed under the masking tape so you don't get a clean edge or does it pull off when you go to remove the masking tape?

The plasti-dip pulled up in some places (not too many), but mostly the tape left a sticky residue on the plasti-dip. I tried several things on a test piece to see how they would release the stickiness as well as how they impacted the plasti-dip. Most solvents were a problem for the plasti-dip. Ultimately the solution was elbow grease and some brushed on touch ups.

The lines were excellent, though.

I made a short Facebook live video, showing where I am currently on the ITB+ project, over the Holidays, and just posted it to YouTube.

https://youtu.be/Ih-zE3B55Uc

and now... straight outta Mt. Vernon

One more round of adjustments and throttle bodies are on their way to see me, from Al's garage to mine!

I might just make the next cars and coffee here in Columbia SC.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1483788422.jpg

Another package from Al arrived today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008763.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008811.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008862.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484008900.jpg


I have a couple stubborn studs on the driver's side that I'm fighting. I think I'll have first fire before the weekend.

beautiful.

An option for mounting your ECU /relay array.
POINTS TO CONSIDER :
- My seats are Kirkey fixed seats , so the ecu is actually mounted with industrial Velcro to a plate in between the REAR seat depressions.It can be lifted out to the door sill when I need to connect it to the laptop.
- Notice the 2-3 feet of cable slack to allow it to move a bit.
If your seat back is foldable you may not need to worry about this.
-Make sure your grounds are beyond reproach.
-my relay panel is crowded,I should re do it.

Good luck ,watching with interest.
PS would a partial drop give you a bit more room ? maybe help you work in the "box" a bit easier.

[http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484015378.jpg

These ITB threads are killing me. I have a perfectly good stock setup on my 3.6, but seeing and hearing these things is making me very impractical.

Those wheels will look good on a black car.

Price out everything to change it over, and that will help you resist..

It's definitely an emotion/passion fueled decision. In addition to the cost for the parts, the opportunity cost associated with depreciation on a low mileage bone stock car makes this very much not a logical financial excercise. Don't get me wrong, I've definitely justified it in my mind, but I've known me long enough to not really be fooled.

In all seriousness, part of the reason I bought a late 80's 911 in good shape was to allow me to tweak it year over year with less worry about having to fix serious issues. Its a great way for me to quench an OCD issue and do things exactly the way I want (no committees, no ROI, only self imposed deadlines...).

So, obviously, I'd just dive in and do it! More pictures soon.

Once you have gone public with your thirst for ITBs, you are already too far gone.

Much progress today, culminating with the first startup and idle.

I have two issues that I'm chasing down - searching has not answered them yet so....

1) there seems to smoke (but it does not have an electrical smell, or much of any smell) coming from somewhere around the glove box. I've only run at idle for maybe 30 seconds 3 times. The "smoke" goes away after I turn the car off, and it did not appear when I had the AEM ECU on for setup, nor when I was cranking it with the injectors and fuel pump off for ignition sync. I now think it has something to do with plugging the fuel line vacuum hose in the engine bay. Any thoughts?


2) my idle is around 3500 rpm. I'm crawling through a saved session and the AEM manual to see how to proceed. Any thoughts would be useful, but I suspect this is just more reading on my part.

My guesses are:

1) check fuel pump, jump the relay to run the pump and see if that causes the smoke

2) Probably a linkage issue, try adjusting/lengthening the linkage between the bellcrank and crossbar to lower the idle

That was quick.

Probably not the fuel pump, it's been running periodically (20 or 30 times) with ignition on while setting up the ECU. But I'll double check.

I'm going to double check the TPS calibration and the butterfly position with no throttle

Phil,
Set the basic idle using the throttle stop screw on the ITBs. This is basically the same procedure for carbs or EFI/ITBs. Disconnect the drop links from the front of the ITBs, so that they can be adjusted separately and not affect each other thru the crossbar. Using the main throttle stop screws, adjust the idle to 1000 RPM or so. I have balanced the flow on the bench, so they should be pretty close, choke to choke.....but this will need to be checked to ensure best performance. Do you have a flow meter? I can email you a guide for balancing these, if you are not familiar with the process. (If you've done Webers, etc.....it is pretty much the same procedure. except with the S3 ITBs you are using the adjustment between the butterfly shafts to balance the flow.)

regards,
al

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484440785.JPG

Phil,
Not sure what your smoke problem might be....but the Rasant ECU doesn't wire up to anything in the glove box area. Have you figured out what is causing that issue?

regards,
al

At first I thought possibly I had made a mistake wiring into the Tach (I know, not quite glove box area, but couldn't think of anything else). I have ruled that out.

I'm going to do more investigation on the next start and idle - fire extinguisher in hand! But, like I said, definitely not a smoke or ozone smell.

get in synch
 

1st.....I forgot to say....congratulations on your first fire up. .......Feel free to email me if you have questions regarding ITB balancing/tuning etc. You might want to buy or borrow one of these synchrometers (flow meter style). These are relatively inexpensive ($40 or so) and are invaluable for setting/blancing carbs/ITBs. I've used one of these to balance your ITBS on the bench.....so you should need only to set the side-to-side balance to the proper idle.....but engines are different than the bench and to really dial it in...I recommend one of these.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484442103.jpg

So, no issues with smoke in the cabin any longer - I think it may have been PB Blaster burning off various parts of the engine - or something - and making it's way into the open passenger side window. Regardless, I'll keep an eye out but it appears to be an issue no longer.

New issue - just noticed - the tach in the car is not working. I connected the tach wire from the AEM to the black/violet wire running forward from under the driver's side seat. So tracking that down now.

High idle seems to be throttle related, but still track it down.

That will do it. I have a flow meter and can balance them side to side.