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That's fond- just deglaze
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Cowl to fender seal- won't budge!
Hi All- looking for any further insight on replacement of the cowl to fender seal (4.3mm #901-503-394-22-M260) I've found all the other useful posts on this forum, and I did loosen the two 5mm Allen bolts on the interior, along with three bolts in the trunk, but the seal is not budging. I did use a plastic wedge try and spread the panel outward, with not much luck. It sounds like this has been a quick job for many on the forum- any thing I need to do in addition?
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Registered
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Quote:
For getting the new one in, you don't really need all that much space, basically you loosen the bolts and just kind of pull on the panel a little to get a tiny amount of space to shove the seal in. If you're not removing the bolts you will need to snip the bottom of the seal so that the seal slides over the bolts correctly, or it won't go in. With mine, it was pretty clear that the seal was meant to be installed by removing the bolts, sliding in the seal, and re-installing the bolts, but if you just create a V-shaped slit going from the bottom of the seal to where the bolt holes are, it should just slide right in. I sprayed my seal pretty liberally with silicone lubricant to make it move around much easier. It took no more than 10-15 minutes per side. If your old seals aren't coming out, that might be because your seal has the bolts going through the holes in the seal and it isn't breaking. Mine was old and brittle enough that it kind of broke apart, so I didn't have this problem, but that might be why you can't get it out. I can't really remember if by opening the door you can actually see the bottom of the seal where the bolts are going through or not, but I don't think so. The rubber might need to break for you to be able to get it out.
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1986 Carrera Coupe - 1987 W124 300E - 1999 Land Cruiser 100 - 2021 GLA250 Last edited by kyngfish; 12-12-2016 at 08:46 AM.. |
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That's fond- just deglaze
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Hi Kyngfish- Thanks- I am having trouble removing the original old seal. It's just not budging. You are correct in that I can see the bottom of the old seal.
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Metal Guru
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You have to loosen all the bolts in the area of the seal that hold the fender to the cowl. The bolts are all inside the fender except the rearmost two, which you can access by opening the door. Unless someone has loosened the bolts on the inside of the fender, they will be covered in a thick layer of bolt shultz and dirt, which will need to be removed.
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Paul B. '91 964 3.3 Turbo Port matched, SC cams, K27/K29 turbo, Roush Performance custom headers w/Tial MV-S dual wastegates, Rarlyl8 muffler, LWFW, GT2 clutch & PP, BL wur, factory RS shifter, RS mounts, FVD timing mod, Big Reds, H&R Coilovers, ESB spring plates- 210 lb Last edited by 911nut; 12-12-2016 at 10:09 AM.. |
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Registered
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Quote:
Obviously you don't want to end up tearing the seal near the top, and leaving the bottom half down there. Spray some silicone lubricant through there and see if that helps get things moving - spray from above and below (inside the fender through the open door)
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1986 Carrera Coupe - 1987 W124 300E - 1999 Land Cruiser 100 - 2021 GLA250 |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 750
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In the door jam, carefully inspect the area around the allen bolts for a weld that's used to help hold the fender. I don't know what years this was done but if the fenders have never been removed, it (one per fender) may still be there. A small putty knife between the cowel and the fender and a couple hammer blows should help liberate the fender.
Tim K |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Posts: 1,117
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Just went through this myself and it was a pain. I ended up cutting off some of the seal material to decrease the amount of material to push into the opening.
Just keep wiggling the seal and do your best to spread the opening with a plastic wedge or credit-card. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 2,307
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I had the weld on a 74. Serious tapping with hammer wouldn't get thru it. Never did really get an opening to replace the seal; had to cut the seal judiciously so that it was held in position at fewer points than in the stock setup.
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jhtaylor santa barbara 74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's. 73 Targa (gone but not forgotten) |
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