Replace CV Joint or Whole Axle

[arbita1]

My cv joints are shot. I currently have both axles removed while the engine is out. Much easier that way. Should I replace the whole axle or just the cv joints and boots. I'll have to buy a bigger circlip remover and not sure if I need the boot crimp tool. Seems like not much savings compared to just buying the axles complete. What is everyone else doing with this?


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[kwikt 911]

I would get the complete axle. Price wise it might be cheaper for the complete unit and certainly not as messy! Good luck

[997at]

I just went through this too. I bought new axle assemblies. About the same price and a lot easier.

[Mick_D]

I hear a lot of people who know about such things feel that the grease used to pack the pre-built axle kits is inferior and will not last a year of deriving before requiring repacking with a quality grease. I also understand that there's an issue with the rubber boots being of poor quality.
Just saying. I am probably going to buy the prebuilts and pack them with good grease.

[Jesse16]

I would disagree that the grease is inferior quality, I think that's a bunch of hearsay. The GKN stuff is high moly from the OEM and thats good enough for me regarding CV Grease. The amount is nicely governed by the packet so you don't over stuff them. My original joints at 27 years had grease that had become tar and they were still working fine till a boot got destroyed. I cleaned, repacked, and rebooted and all has been good. Switched sides on the joints as I saw no reason not to. The OEM's like GKN still build millions of Axles so their boots are as good as boots get I'd bet.
I did buy the clamp tool off amazon, pinched them closed easy.

[universeman]

I got Lobros and installed them when I did my diff seals. Huge advantage not having to deal with all the grease. Still a fairly messy job if you're not careful. All you're really paying extra for is a piece of round metal bar (the axle shaft itself) so IMO axle replacement is the way to go. Put some value on your time....there's always more projects...

[Mick_D]

hey fine, I'm just a parrot parroting what I've read here.
Gimme a cracker dammit

[winders]

Originally Posted by Mick_D

I hear a lot of people who know about such things feel that the grease used to pack the pre-built axle kits is inferior and will not last a year of deriving before requiring repacking with a quality grease.

Originally Posted by Jesse16

I would disagree that the grease is inferior quality, I think that's a bunch of hearsay. The GKN stuff is high moly from the OEM and thats good enough for me regarding CV Grease. The amount is nicely governed by the packet so you don't over stuff them.

Originally Posted by Mick_D

hey fine, I'm just a parrot parroting what I've read here.
Gimme a cracker dammit

The grease that comes in the prebuilt axles and the packets in the kits is mediocre at best. I would never use it on the cv joints on my street car and certainly not in my race car. I use Red Line CV-2. You can use that crap if you want, Jesse, but I wouldn't be discouraging others from repacking with a better grease.

[juanbenae]

ive only ever replaced the joints & boots repacking with the swepco molly goodness. it can be messy, but I drop each one into a ziplock, add grease and hand pack it. it's like playdoh. just don't pet the bunny too hard and lance the bag. you hate it then.

when ready for install while still in the bag I try to squeegee as much grease off the thing as I can. pull it from the bag wiping the excess grease from the exterior surface up while on the bench on a paper plate. also pushing the grease from the bolt holes with a 8 penny nail. although a 10 might work...

I then get the clean boot, mate it to the greased, but wiped down CV and put a couple zipties thru the bolt holes securing it to the boot. install it on the axle and rebag. the ties actually help in keeping the cv from coming apart on you after greased due to it being secured to the boot flange.

I leave the zipties in place until I have 1 or 2 bolts started to thread. pull the bag at the last possible second. start with the trailing arm side. use tie wire to support the axle just prior to reinstall. a few minutes spend building scaffolding beats working from a ladder a wise carpenter once told me.

if you have less time than money, then have your wrench buy the entire axle cause it'll be less shop time.

[arbita1]

Ok. I ordered two new assembled axels today. I just want an easy bolt on item. I've done enough dissembling and rebuild with this engine rebuild already.


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[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Ok. I ordered two new assembled axels today. I just want an easy bolt on item. I've done enough dissembling and rebuild with this engine rebuild already.


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understand the looking to get to point A to B as painlessly (quickly) as possible. I have new to me 75 with the motor out currently and since I only drove it like 7 miles home before dropping the motor I have not clue what shape the CV's are in. I may pull the inboard set to clean & inspect and see if they all need replacing. I have more time than money most days though..

[winders]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Ok. I ordered two new assembled axels today. I just want an easy bolt on item. I've done enough dissembling and rebuild with this engine rebuild already.

Is it really the time to take a shortcut now?

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by winders

Is it really the time to take a shortcut now?

The savings was only $100 between buying the separate parts and tools (bigger circlip remover and boot crimper) vs. buying the assembled units. Didn't see the point to buy the rebuild kit.


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