AEM AFR and Voltmeter Gauges Install
 

I'm a serial lurker, and have certainly taken much more from this forum than I've given it, but thought I'd share a pic of my AEM gauge install. In typical fashion for me, I started out wanting to add a voltmeter because I followed Jack Olsen's lead and installed a Battery Tender LiFePo4 battery and wanted to monitor the charging. So I ordered the AEM voltmeter and Rothsport clock delete plug.

But then I got thinking that if I put the voltmeter where the clock was, I won't be able to put anything else there, like an AFR gauge. In my mind, it's better to have an AFR gauge near your line of sight than it is a voltmeter. So I decided the drill a 2" hole in my perfectly good Rennline lower dash and mount the voltmeter there, and drill another 2" hole in my perfectly good clock delete plug for an AFR gauge.

Major thanks to Salcarceller, who I contacted for some advice about the O2 sensor wiring. I was afraid the 8' harness for the O2 sensor was going to be too short to go from the engine compartment through the interior into the frunk and then up to the rear of the gauge panel but I actually ended up with probably a foot of wiring to spare.

One word of advice, though. The AEM gauges can be programmed with various backlit colors to match different instrument lights and the default is red. To change the color you have to insert a jeweler's screwdriver into a hole in the back and turn an adjuster. The point is that if you can do this before the gauge is fully installed it'll probably be easier than doing it afterwards, where space is usually minimal.

Jeff

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486323015.jpg

Thanks for sharing with us Jeff - did you happen to do a write up for the install? If so, you may be interested in becoming a DIY Project Expert. If we end up publishing your article to site, we'll give you 10% off your next order. Check out the link below if you're interested!

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-Dmitry

Great work Jeff!
I am planning on doing the same thing this week. Could you post some detail with pics on where you ran the wiring?
Thom

There aren't many A-pillar mounting options. Here's an A-pillar gauge mount available on eBay. No drilling. The mount clamps onto the A-pillar profile; the gauge cup of choice attaches to it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486430329.jpg

Sherwood

Jeff, I've got the exact same gauges. I'm going to mount mine in the console where the air conditioning switches used to be - pictures will come when done. Where did you route your wiring for the O2 sensor? I'm doing that job next so would like to see what you did.

Mark.

Do you have the name of the seller of the A pillar mount? Thanks

Scott

Jeff,
That install looks great!
If you have a 84-89 Carrera I can share a document I have on gathering AFRs for the 3.2L motor. This doc outlines 7 test cases I use to access the health of a 3.2L motor. I developed these 7 test cases after years of looking at AFR readings on healthy motors. Even if the motor is not a 3.2L you can still use these basic tests on other engines like CIS but readings will run about -0.5 richer
You already have my email.

Route the wiring via the main engine harness access hole, it's located under the rear drivers side jump seat. If you are sitting in the rear seat it's directly behind your left heel. Lift the carpet in that area and you'll find the large DME to Engine harness as it goes through the firewall in that location. Run the harness from outside into the cabin, meaning you will route the small connector end of the harness that plugs into the gauge, start under the car and push that small connector through that large rubber grommet. You may want to pull the grommet out of the tin from inside the cabin, then get the gauge harness through the grommet and reinstall the grommet.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the tip Sal. I hope to have my components installed by the weekend and will also be contacting you soon for the data collection log.
Thom

This thread is also helpful for ideas on mounting
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/895323-aem-wideband-o2-gauges.html

Thanks for the wiring route details Sal. Will be easy as my interior is all out at this moment. I just have to get some time to put it up on the hoist so i can access the grommet from underneath. Please send the document with the 7 tests to my email - you and I have messaged before so I'll PM you the email address. The plan has always been to get the gauge in the car, do the testing, then buy your DME upgrade and new injectors. We'll make that happen this summer for sure.

Mark

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486499455.jpg

This is what I used for my AFR and voltmeter. AFR is the bottom instrument. It records up to 2 hours of data and you can download it to your laptop with the mini USB port in the front on the lower left and then chart it or make an Excel spread sheet. I records AFR, RPM, and manifold vacuum/pressure. Our host sell this kit.

The "CL" reading on the gauge is for "cold" meaning the wideband sensor is not warmed up yet.

Above digital readout is battery voltage, oil cooler temp, free air temp, and a digital clock. The toggle switches let you toggle through the settings and set the clock.

I cannot over emphasize how critical it is to record AFR, RPM, and MAP data and be able to analyze it later. to me, real time gauges with no data memory is a waste.......unless you have a co-pilot with a clipboard who can take notes really really fast!!!!:):):)

I have had this setup in my MFI 2.7 1973 for many years and it has been invaluable in setting the AFR.

This is a quick mock up of what I have in mind. I need to get the vinyl stretched a bit but I think the idea is clear.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486617886.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486617886.JPG

Lake Guy,
That's really nice super clean install!

That product is no longer on ebay, but I found one source:
Porsche 911 pillar pod gauge kit - 9xauto

Not at a friendly price. However, the unique profile of the early 911 A-pillar provides minimal options.

Dang, when that was available on eBay, it was less than half of that asking price!

Really nice install. Makes me wish I had a console. My gauge arrives today, time to get busy.

less than professional but it gets the job done .

-dampened vdo ampmeter
-lightweight 911 GT LM guage surround (coors light beer can with high speed carbon fiber vinyl wrap)TM :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486690001.jpg

Hey guys,

Sorry for the delay in responding to some of your questions, but it was a busy work week.

First I ran the wiring along the inner wheel well and secured it so it wouldn't get snagged on anything. You can see how big the harness connector is. I also wrapped it to keep dirt and grime out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486826791.jpg

Sal had suggested running the wiring from the O2 sensor through the large grommet in the LH rear seat footwell area, which you can see part of in the lower right of the next photo. I initially tried that but decided to find another solution because the connector that goes into the back of the gauge is rectangular and has small tabs on the ends, so I was concerned about possibly breaking it while trying to force it through what is already a tight grommet. And because I was worried about the cable not being long enough, I wanted to run the wiring up the center of the car and not on the LH close to the door jamb like Sal did because my gauge is closer to the center of the car. So I drilled another hole and then added a grommet and silicone sealer:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486826335.jpg

Then I ran the wiring through the LH inner seat rail and up to the pedal cluster. Because I have removed the A/C, I was able to run the wiring through an existing hole in underneath the dash into the smuggler's box and then out to the back of the dash in the frunk. (Please excuse my loose under dash wiring. I've removed a lot of interior components, like the center console and original dash, but am trying to keep most of the wiring for the time being.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486826698.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486826870.jpg

After test driving the car, I agree with Dick that the value of an AFR gauge is seriously diminished without a data logger. The nice thing about the AEM gauges is both the voltmeter and AFR gauge have wires in the harnesses that can be connected to a data logger. Mine are not being used now, but I expect that'll change in the future.

Yes, my car is an '86, Al, and I'm just getting to the point in my ownership where I'm starting to want to learn about tuning the engine. I've been fortunate that the engine has run very well since I bought this car a few years ago, but I'm sure it could be better. So if you could send that document I'd be most appreciative.

Jeff

Jeff, PM me your email address I'll send the doc

Here is how I did mine. BTW, nice job on your install Taxi.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486859793.jpg

I chose to mount my sensor in the tail pipe. Couldn't weld my heat exchangers (aluminized), and I didn't think there was room on the inlet of the muffler.
It works just fine on the outlet!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486859910.jpg

I then ran the sensor wire from the sensor up through the engine seal where the original fuel line ran.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486860058.jpg

Then up and to the rear (actually front) of the engine compartment where the plug to the harness is. That wire runs down by the firewall following the fuel line. It then goes into the rear of the tunnel through an unused hole.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486860298.jpg

Then out of the tunnel in the smuggler's box and up to the gauge.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486860398.jpg

Brilliant! But I'd mount it down closer to the dash.

I dread the thought of anything high up that you could bump your head on.

Gordon,

Be aware that I have seen first hand differences between a sensor near the tail pipe outlet and one in the collector. The tailpipe readings will read 0.5 to as much as 1.0 AFR leaner! I see this all the time when a dyno operator puts the senor in the tail pipe. I then ask for it to be moved and we see true AFR data. I suspect this is because some fresh air is introduced back into the muffler because of sound wave pulses. Kind of the same reason you can see fuel atomized and floating above a carburetor on a hi-performance motor, how does fuel actually get outside the carb if the motor is at full load? This pulse theory is also at play in the exhaust. I suggest you try moving the senor to the collector or you could weld a bung on the inlet to the muffler instead of the outlet and put a plug in the outlet bung. I warn you here because you may tune that motor incorrectly, with the sensor as placed now you will likely see a false lean reading. I bet you are running significantly richer than the gauge is telling you.

Never really cared for any option I have seen for mounting the gauges so I made my own to fit where the ash tray used to live. I covered it in vinyl that came very close to matching the existing knee pad.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486914273.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486914292.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486914342.jpg

Thanks for the feedback. Actually, I am struggling with an overly rich situation at present. The reading on the gauge in the picture, was during warm up.
I am able to get around 12.5 - 13 to 1 at idle. Any leaner, it won't run.

The real issue is at cruise. I'm at 10.8 - 11.2 on the freeway.

I've come to the conclusion that it must be my emulsion tubes. My thinking is that the main jets are coming in too soon. Nothing I do to the idles makes any difference on the freeway. At full throttle it's 12.5 to 1.

Thanks for the advise.

Edit: I put a two foot long hose to extend the exhaust and it made no difference. So more experimenting to do.
Also the emulsion tubes were a bust. No change. So now it's time to frits with the idle air correctors. Bummer.

PM sent. Thanks, Al.

Thanks, Gordon. I constantly feel that my car and I are somewhat inferior to the many beautiful vehicles and smart minds on this forum, so I appreciate the compliment. Your engine compartment looks really clean.

Jeff

I'm in the midst of this same project this weekend. I will too be mounting it in the no op clock hole. made the retaining bezel today by hole sawing a nylon type cutting board and gluing the pieces together. the final front facing layer was a piece of plastic file divider thing I had laying around that worked nicely with the bit of texture it provided & being black. winning!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486943904.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486943926.jpg

will use the old clock rubber sleeve deal to retain the bezzle puck


went to a buddy of mines buddy's house last night for bung welding fun & games. here's our work on my SSIs. will only be monitoring one bank but went ahead and put them on both sides.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486944155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486944186.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486944217.jpg

Looks good nice TIG welding.......also smart to put bungs in on both sides while you are at it. Also smart to get it as close to the head as possible.

You could hook up a toggle switch to from one side to the other....OR you could put in one of these:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486952545.jpg

and it gathers data from both sides that you can play back later.

yes on as close as possible w/o having the sensor interfere with lower valve cover removal!:eek:

I was going off memory in placement on the circumference & went conservative, closer to 9 o'clock than noon.

just met the welder chopper-jim last night. great guy with a very set up shop in his garage where he makes his living doing Harley things. as an old VW guy he loved the fact I was going to carbs, so I had to promise him a ride when the motor's done...