Brake Lines - Flexible alternative to hard line at the caliper

[VFR750]

Does anyone make a flexible line that replaces the hard line from the front strut to the caliper?

The fundamental problem is getting the air out of the caliper after removing them.

It would be nice to be able to remove the caliper from the strut (when changing the rotor and hub bearings) and not have to disconnect the hard line. Almost every other car I've worked on has a flex line. Why can't a 911SC have one too?

Once the hard line connection is broken at the strut, air gets in, and it is a royal PITA to get the air out. Bleeding the brakes is one of the more frustrating job, and it is cause mainly by this connection that has to be broken.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by VFR750

Does anyone make a flexible line that replaces the hard line from the front strut to the caliper?

The fundamental problem is getting the air out of the caliper after removing them.

It would be nice to be able to remove the caliper from the strut (when changing the rotor and hub bearings) and not have to disconnect the hard line. Almost every other car I've worked on has a flex line. Why can't a 911SC have one too?

Once the hard line connection is broken at the strut, air gets in, and it is a royal PITA to get the air out. Bleeding the brakes is one of the more frustrating job, and it is cause mainly by this connection that has to be broken.

Something like this? You just need to order the right ends and length

[Brian911T]

I would recommend one of these pressure bleeders. It makes bleeding brakes and flushing the system a one person job and very easy.


Its Available from our host.
Universal Power Bleeder Kit - PelicanParts.com

[VFR750]

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

Something like this? You just need to order the right ends and length

Bill,

Who did you order this from? Or, who made this for you?

That is exactly what I want, with the stock end fitting for the steel ATE caliper.

[VFR750]

Btw, been using a motive power bleeder for over 10 years.

I want a way to not put the bubbles in there in the first place.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by VFR750

Bill,

Who did you order this from? Or, who made this for you?

That is exactly what I want, with the stock end fitting for the steel ATE caliper.

Mine came from Racetechnologies but all you need is 10mm bubble flare at the caliper, don'tt recall the chassis end and they need tobe a little longer than usual,

maybe Classic tube They are very accomodating

[Mahler9th]

Motive = local company, owned by a friend. Great product.

There are numerous brake line set ups that can work. You can either go straight into the caliper, or for some applications use a line with a banjo fitting on the caliper end. I have a bunch of part numbers that will work on file.

I also have some new lines with adequate length with banjo fittings on the caliper side-- couldn't use them for my project. Very similar to the set up in the picture in this thread.Let me know if you have interest in these.

There are numerous ways to attach the line to the strut to keep everything nice and tidy-- easy to fab something up.

If you come up with a design for your application like "-3 line of z length, with x connector on one end and y connector on the other end," I think I can point you to the right parts, which you can probably get from a place like Summit.

[midnight911]

you don't have to disconnect the hard line from the caliper. the hard line is "flexible."

[VFR750]

Yes you do if you want to remove the caliper.

[hcoles]

I'm thinking the same thing - why did they make it so difficult to move the caliper out of the way.
One solution is to cut a slot (3/16"?) in the "tab" connected to the strut - you pull the clip and slide things to get the OD of the tube to the tab and then slide the hard tubing through the slot. I think this might work but I haven't tried it personally.

[Mahler9th]

I have worked on a variety of Porsche braking systems with short hard lines at the caliper. I have never had a problem bleeding any of them. Most of my experience is with street/track or full race cars. I have used vacuum and pressure-based systems (like the trustworthy Motive-- excellent product, excellent folks). I have also done hand and gravity bleeding. I have never had a problem that I could assign to short hard lines attached to calipers.

I am not familiar with all stock SC brake parts.

My current Porsche is a race car, and the front braking system is a hodgepodge of parts I put together for my application-- street car "use cases" can be different.

Here is some information that may be helpful:

1. A number of companies sell -3 teflon-lined stainless braided brake lines with various lengths and hose ends. Two such companies are Russell Performance and Earl's Performance. These products are not usually DOT "approved," but are frequently used in off road (e.g., racing) applications. I have used various product like this for many, many years for race and mix-used Porsches I've owned.

Here are two examples of -3 lines with ring fittings on one end (let's call it caliper side):

Earl's Performance 63010224ERL
Russell Performance 657030

You can find these on their web sites or at places like Summit Racing. Various lengths are available.

2. You can also buy a banjo bolt from companies like these. Here is an example:

Earl's Performance 997517ERL

These things usually come with the needed washers.

3. When using such lines, you need to convert the other end so that it mates to the hard line on the car. Again, these companies make adapters, for example:

Earl's Performance 989534ERL

I have this type of adapter in various applications on my race car.

4. Porsche also shipped some rings and banjo bolts on the braking systems of some 930 and 914 cars.

Here are some examples of Porsche Part Numbers:

Ring fitting: 99921502703
Banjo bolt 99913500202
Washers are N038062

You can do a search on these part numbers and look at the images. They can be had from a variety of sources, likely including our host.

Here you would use lines with 10 x 1 fittings. These are harder to find than lines with -3 fittings.

5. I think you may be able to find some lines with the necessary Porsche 10 x 1 metric fittings on each ends at places like EBS in Nevada and maybe Paragon Products in Texas. Even the host here may stock some of these. These type of things have been available from time to time at Porsche-oriented stores for folks wishing to rid themselves of factory lines. Choices are likely to be fewer than the ubiquitous -3 stuff. Some of these products may come with "DOT approved" crimps. Some of these may be long enough to omit the short factory hard lines.

Do some search once you've speced out your needs, and I am sure that you will be successful. One key is to make sure that that things mate properly-- a variety of flare systems are out there in the wild, and you need to pay attention to this.

[gtc]

My local Parker hose shop will build custom brake lines. I imagine there is someone near you that does the same thing.
Here's a similar place in CT:
Connecticut's Leading Parker Fluid Connector Distributor

[swade]

Really great info Mike, thanks

[hcoles]

When you make a custom hose it looks like you don't end up with a swivel feature (stock has this at the caliper). This may or may not cause installation or removal difficulties. Maybe one or more of the fittings mentioned has a swivel feature.