Help Needed…..Rear Shock Replacement

[997at]

Was hoping to get some advice so I don't feel so stupid and also to stop me going crazy. I'm replacing the rear shocks on my 82. Got the drivers side top nut off (after removing the heater blower motor and fan……..which required disconnect of the fuel lines to the injectors). Bottom bolt won't budge even after adding a 4ft jack handle to the end of a breaker bar. Going to try an impact wrench next. Any other thoughts?
Now the bigger problem…….There is next to no access to the passenger side top nut. Certainly not enough for me to get both the wrench in and something else to hold the top of the shock from rotating………..I've tried for a few hours to no avail ( a few beers and lots of staring contests between me and the car too). I'm at the point where I'm considering an engine drop as the next step. For anyone who has done this on an 80-83, how is it possible without an engine drop. Sorry for the novice question, but I've wrenched on other cars before and never encountered shock access that was this tough.

[john walker's workshop]

3/8" air ratchet and a medium 17mm socket for the top and 1/2" impact wrench and 7/8" socket for the bottom. Never tried it by hand, or had to remove the blower.

[997at]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

3/8" air ratchet and a medium 17mm socket for the top and 1/2" impact wrench and 7/8" socket for the bottom. Never tried it by hand, or had to remove the blower.

Hi JW, thanks for the reply. I'm learning that doing it by hand is impossible. If I use an air ratchet on the top I'm assuming the pneumatic ratcheting gets it off without needing to hold the top of the stud? Thanks again.

[Franks89-911]

If you can believe it, this gizmo is all it took for me to get my lower shock bolts off. Bought it after I realized even with car on jack stands, I had no clearance to use breaker bar, and I didn't want to spend $200+ on an air compressor and impact wrench for a single job. Surprising amount of power for an electric. Soaked bolts in WD-40 for an evening and that seemed to help. Not remembering the "leftie loosie, righty tighty" rule initially, didn't.

I have an 89 so my passenger side top bolt wasn't as difficult as what you're describing, but I did have to remove my entire airbox & filter, and disconnect & push the metal MAF aside for access.

FREE SHIPPING — Kawasaki 12 Volt DC Electric Roadside Impact Wrench Kit — 1/2in. Drive, Model# 841337 | Corded Impact Wrenches| Northern Tool + Equipment

[997at]

Originally Posted by Franks89-911

If you can believe it, this gizmo is all it took for me to get my lower shock bolts off. Bought it after I realized even with car on jack stands, I had no clearance to use breaker bar, and I didn't want to spend $200+ on an air compressor and impact wrench for a single job. Surprising amount of power for an electric. Soaked bolts in WD-40 for an evening and that seemed to help. Not remembering the "leftie loosie, righty tighty" rule initially, didn't.

I have an 89 so my passenger side top bolt wasn't as difficult as what you're describing, but I did have to remove my entire airbox & filter, and disconnect & push the metal MAF aside for access.

FREE SHIPPING — Kawasaki 12 Volt DC Electric Roadside Impact Wrench Kit — 1/2in. Drive, Model# 841337 | Corded Impact Wrenches| Northern Tool + Equipment

Thanks for the tip Frank. I was able to borrow a friends pneumatic impact gun and pan to have at the bottom bolts tonight. Ya, access to the top passenger nut on an 82 is a beeatch! I'm going to buy an air ratchet tonight per John Walker's suggestion for the top. There is definitely enough access to get 1 wrench in there…………you just need the right one it seems.

[75 911s]

It's easy to lose orientation of loosening the bolt. So remember to make sure you are turning it the right way. I used a 1/2 ratchet with a 3ft breaker bar on the lower shock mount. If it still gives you issues, you can lie under the car and use your foot to gently bump the very end of the breaker bar, requires a bit of dexterity. But your leg has much more power. Obviously make sure you are unscrewing and not tightening.

[Kraftwerk]

Okay..a month old thread... but I just did this today, and like everyone else It was a 'head scratcher': For the top of the passenger side shock I simply disconnected the oil line /tube at the connector that way I was able to get my hands in there and place a vice grip on the top of the treaded rod, it is square on two sides, while i unscrewed the nut 17 mm wrench. Drivers side has much more room but I had to undo the heater tube/plastic thing.. which is very delicate after all these years so be careful with it I am sure replacements are pricey.

[997at]

OP here. I also ended up removing the blower motor and hoses on the drivers side and the oil line on the passenger side. I needed to use an air ratchet on the passenger side as well as vice grips and regular wrench. Bottom bolts required a 6 point impact socket and a half inch breaker bar with a 4 ft jack handle on it to create a 5 foot lever.

[yelcab1]

My Ingersol Rand impact gun works every time.

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Glad this has been a helpful thread to the Pelican community. I also wanted to add a link to our shock replacement tech article that may be helpful. If you scroll down to the comments/suggestions section and read Franks89-911 and mrhaydndownes responses, it may be helpful for those who have issues with the rear shock removal.

Tech article here: Porsche 911 Shock Replacement | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
Shocks for anyone else that may need them: Porsche 911 (1974-1989) - Shocks

[fred cook]

Originally Posted by 997at

Was hoping to get some advice so I don't feel so stupid and also to stop me going crazy. I'm replacing the rear shocks on my 82. Got the drivers side top nut off (after removing the heater blower motor and fan……..which required disconnect of the fuel lines to the injectors). Bottom bolt won't budge even after adding a 4ft jack handle to the end of a breaker bar. Going to try an impact wrench next. Any other thoughts?
Now the bigger problem…….There is next to no access to the passenger side top nut. Certainly not enough for me to get both the wrench in and something else to hold the top of the shock from rotating………..I've tried for a few hours to no avail ( a few beers and lots of staring contests between me and the car too). I'm at the point where I'm considering an engine drop as the next step. For anyone who has done this on an 80-83, how is it possible without an engine drop. Sorry for the novice question, but I've wrenched on other cars before and never encountered shock access that was this tough.

When I replaced the rear shocks on my SC, I was able to reach around the CIS to get to the passenger side top shock nut. I used two wrenches, could not see what I was doing, but it was easy enough to do by feel. Used one wrench to hold the shock shaft and another to turn the nut. You can gain a bit of room by removing the CIS top rubber boot.

[felix83]

Bumping this thread. I'm in the process of removing the rear shocks and the rear right one is a right bastard to get off. I plan on using a small blowtorch to heat the area of the trailing arm where the bolt is threaded and then go at it with an impact wrench. Has anyone tried this?
I'm losing patience here, this is turning out to be one of the most frustrating projects to date.

[Leebag]

I have an 83 sc

top shock mount.

I used craftsman elbow wrench on the top nut and vise grip to hold the top rod of the shock. lock the vise grip and ratchet it out until the vise grip hits the wall to stop the shock rod from turning. didn't need to take fuel lines or heater blower.

bottom bolt

didn't really need to use torch in my situation. soak in wd40, an impact socket and a half inch breaker bar connected to a long jack handle.

[kyngfish]

You also may want to consider that there is downward pressure on the shock AND the bolt, making it harder to get off. If you can fit it, you can put a jack under the shock and place some slight upward pressure on the shock.

This should relieve some of the pressure and make it easier to get off with an impact wrench.

Haven't really done this with the Porsche, but with my truck, it was a necessary step when removing bottom bolts.

[Kraftwerk]

So we are doing this project at the same time. It's like a book club but instead of reading the same book we are writing the same book.
The lower bolt where the shock meets the trailing arm: Mine did not budge either. I took of the trailing arm WITH the shock still attached. ( ps. I am doing this entire job w/o an impact gun .. but that's a story for another time) My plan is to put the trailing arm in a vice or simply bolt it to the floor of my studio then go at that bolt with a six point socket and a 4 foot leverage bar.

[yelcab1]

This is where air compressor and an IR gun come in handy. If you work on cars, air tools give you more time to spend with your wife.

[997at]

OP here. FWIW I was able to break my lower shock bolts loose eventually with a six point impact socket attached to a 2ft breaker bar onto which I added a 4ft floor jack handle.........bust those suckers loose with leverage and the right socket. I first went at it with an impact gun to the point of destroying the socket and it didn't do the job......but my compressor is not that great either.