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IAN IAN is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Bend, OR USA
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Any Advantage To Updated Idler Arms For Use With Original Tensioners?

I'm staring at my chain cases and I'm wondering exactly what I should do.

I'm going to install the collars. I might replace the ramps, since they are all brown.

Are the original idlers arms okay for use with the original tensioners.

Thanks,
ian

Old 01-19-2003, 07:31 AM
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The black color of the ramps seems to fade over time and start to appear brown in color. Be very careful when installing the ramps and make sure you do not move the chain AT ALL. Ask me how I know, and how much it cost to fix

I'd recommend pulling the idler arms and inspecting the bushings. If they are worn at all, replace/upgrade to the later style. You may want to do this anyway, though. The later style has a wider base and bushing which helps prevent binding as the arm pivots.

Are you gonna remove and test the tensioners while you are in there? Many of us would recommend an upgrade to the pressure-fed tensioners. Have yours ever been replaced?

Best of luck, it's a fun job!
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:10 AM
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IAN IAN is offline
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How did you blow up your motor??

I'm looking at the whole mechanism and not thinking it looks as scary I would have expected. You must have skipped a tooth or something, otherwise I don't know how you roasted your engine.

Can't you just rotate the engine using the fan belt pully to see if there is any resistance??

I'm going to stick with the stock tensioners and install the collars. I realize there are many theories on this matter. I'm sure to get lectured, but I have consulted several mechanics that think this is a decent solution. The pressure fed are not 100% fail safe either and they are an expensive upgrade. I don't drive my car exensive distances so if I hear chain noise I'll pull over and get towed. I just want to prevent blowing up my motor.

Thanks,
ian
Old 01-19-2003, 08:33 AM
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Re: How did you blow up your motor??

Quote:
Originally posted by IAN

Can't you just rotate the engine using the fan belt pully to see if there is any resistance??
Yeah, ain't 20/20 hindsight a bit*h

You are correct about the pressure-fed tensioners. The shop that installed them in my SC had two out of three sets *fail*. Do not know if it was incorrect/non priming, or just a bad batch. Scary thought either way.
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:42 AM
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Yes, there is most definitely an advantage to using the newer chain wheel carriers, regardless of tensioner style. I'd still suggest the pressure tensioners, perhaps in the future. They are nearly infallible. Much more so than the early units.

Like I said, use a strong wire to clamp the chain together around the cam sprocket. I think the danger is skipping a cam sprocket tooth, rather than the crank sprocket. Still, be very careful. And yes, rotate the engine before starting. If you have a dial indicator and the holding fixture (P207?) you can check cam timing when you're done and be entirely certain.

Finally, if you get a failed tensioner, it will be at startup. It will sound like dragging a chain across the lip of a garbage can. Your collars SHOULD save your engine. Should.

Pelican probably has a tech article with the drawing of which ramps go where.
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Old 01-19-2003, 08:42 AM
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I know that the whole carrera tensioner debate has been beaten half to death, here and elsewhere, but now I actually have to decide. Motor is apart, about to assemble, ('82 SC, 120k), I'm leaning heavily towards new 930 tensioners. Can't seem to dredge up reliable reports of them failing, at least not w/ under 200k miles, TONS of failed carrera tensioner stories everywhere, always refuted by those who sell them.

Maybe I'll revive one of the old threads. Bottom line is that all tensioners are equal if working properly, (no performance or other difference other than claimed reliability), 930s are cheaper w/ less new potential oil leak locations, etc. I have a set of new carrera tensioners in the box from Pelican, only reason I am seriously considering them is resale value when I sell the car, everyone has been convinced that they are an upgrade. I'm not, but I am open to proof.

Anyone have direct experience w/ 930 tensioners failing within normal lifespan, (say, 150k miles)? No anedoctal stories from the internet please, only cases that you actually know of would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
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Old 01-19-2003, 09:35 AM
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OK. What are "930 tensioners"? What makes them unique?

Jerry M
'78 SC
Old 01-19-2003, 10:03 AM
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930 tensioners are not unique, they are the ones that came from the factory on my car, and yours.
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Old 01-19-2003, 10:06 AM
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binding of the idler support arm on it's pin has been documented to be the main cause if tensioner failure. that's why they went to the wider arm with two bushings.

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Old 01-19-2003, 10:40 AM
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