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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Bend, OR USA
Posts: 372
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I'm looking at my Open Chain Cases Now...
I just took off my chain cases and I'm staring at my exisiting tensioners on my 72T 2.4. They have around 37k on them.
I have a few questions. 1) Is there a decent way to check the condition of my existing tensioners? 2) The ramps have no marks, show very very little wear. Im going to leave them. 3) I want to install the collars. Any tips? 4) Do I need to look at anything else while I'm in there? Idler arms, etc. 5) Anything else. Thanks very much for your help. Ian |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 12,665
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It is my understanding that some of the tensioner issues were not directly related to the tensioner but witht he geometry of the chain path. As part of the tensioner upgrade, you change a (I think) the idler sproket and that helps to improve the geometry. I understand that there is a harmonic for the chain in the 2000-3000 rpm range that causes the chaine to vibrate fiercely. Witht he early cars, like your and mine, you don't want to be below 3000 anyway so you aviod the harmonic issue as well. The later engine will provide decent power at these low rpms and so the vibration problem was increased.
Most of this is third hand info but I seems to make sense to me. I currently do not have carrera tensionerrs but at some point I plan to add them for better piece of mind. I the interim, I keep listening. I am a bit skeptical of the stops since they can mask a failure unless you check them regularly.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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With the chain in place, you probably cannot see the pitting of the ramps. Replace them while you are there.
I would use some serious loctite, like the red stuff, if I were installing collars. Also, they say not to overtighten them. I have a pair I never used (went to the pressure units instead), and I can go read the torque spec if you need. It is in inch-pounds.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Bend, OR USA
Posts: 372
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Superman,......
All of my ramps are brown. My understanding is that there should be 4 black and 1 brown.
Any thoughts on how to check the current condition of the tensioners? The part# on the tensioner is #901105519. They are pretty old, but have only about 37k on them. How hard is it to do the ramps?? thanks, ian |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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I know of no way to check tensioners. If they work, they're fine. for now.
The two main dangers in changing ramps are allowing the chain to slip, or dropping a ramp into the engine case. Use a strong wire to hold the chain if necessary. At TDC #1, the cams will not be exerting pressure against the chain. Still, wiring them so that they simply cannot lose their place on the cam sprockets is perhaps wise. Smaller wire, or long needle nose pliers can be used to help guard against dropping a ramp into the engine. The ramps snap on. You can unscrew the bolts that hold them, or at lest the ones with the bolt heads on the front of the case. It takes some pressure to snap them on. I don't know if they snap onto both bolts, or if only one makes the 'snap' and the other just screws into place.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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