Installing rear wheel spacers Write-Up

[DeRRis]

Okay guys I’ve put some 80mm Wheel studs in the rear drive flange so I can fit 25mm (1 inch) spacers. This should get my wheel flush with the fender. I’ve done a little write-up which some of you might find handy. Okay here goes....

First I’ve loosened the centre driveshaft nut with my breaker bar.



Then I got the car in the air and removed the wheel.
I removed the brake disc screw



Loosened the two caliperbolts

Top


Bottom


And put the calliper to one side so I can remove the brake disc

[DeRRis]

After I removed the brake disc I put the calliper back with just one bold to keep the brake line from damaging.



Then I removed the centre driveshaft nut



I then removed the allenbolts that hold the driveshaft to the gearbox. Take real care here. You don’t want to strip these bolts. I tap the allenkey in with a hammer to make sure the seat properly.



You'll need to take the bottom bolt out of the shock absorber and then you can take your driveshaft out and put it aside.
Next up is the flange. With a slide hamer I removed that

[DeRRis]

Then it’s time to work on the drive flange.
First I hammered out the wheel studs with a nylon hamer.



Then I hammered the 80mm studs in using the same nylon Hammer. Now don’t worry if the don’t fully seat. When you torque your wheels up they will seat all the way.



Then it was time to get the outer bearing race from the flange.



Then we move on to the old bearing. First we have to get all of the emergency brake shoes and the dust shields off



Now you have a clean swingarm and you can get your removal tool out of the box

[DeRRis]

So on with the removal tool to extract the bearing from the swing arm



Then you press in your new bearing



Then you install all your dust shields.



Followed by you emergency brake stuff



And then you press in your drive flange

[DeRRis]

Then it’s on with the brake disc and calliper. The drive shaft and the shock absorber.



Then you pop on your spacer. I got these 25mm spacers



Then it’s on with the wheel, lower the car. And admire your work!



Don’t forget to torque your wheel and centre driveshaft nut
I think it’s spot on.



Hope this helps some of you. It took me about 2 and a half hours.

[livetopedal]

Thanks Dennis! Great write up and pictures. I bookmarked it for future reference.

[Elombard]

Cant you remove and install the studs by removing the parking brake stuff? Do you have to get the flange off the car?

Great write up.

[DeRRis]

Originally Posted by Elombard

Cant you remove and install the studs by removing the parking brake stuff? Do you have to get the flange off the car?

Great write up.

I wish, that would have saved me two hours. You can replace the stock lenght studs that way. Anything longer and you have to take off the flange.

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by Elombard

Cant you remove and install the studs by removing the parking brake stuff? Do you have to get the flange off the car?

Great write up.

I believe you might be able to if you don't go over 66mm studs, but the OP used 80 mm.

[Busta Rib]

It's possible to install 100mm studs without removing the rear hubs. I did it on my car. There is a small hole on the inboard side of the hub where you can insert one stud at a time. Then use the method described in this thread (Wheel Stud replacement...A pictoral..) to pull the studs through. You need to remove the emergency brake components and brake dust shields but it is possible.

[Lyle O]

Originally Posted by Busta Rib

It's possible to install 100mm studs without removing the rear hubs. I did it on my car. There is a small hole on the inboard side of the hub where you can insert one stud at a time. Then use the method described in this thread (Wheel Stud replacement...A pictoral..) to pull the studs through. You need to remove the emergency brake components and brake dust shields but it is possible.

+1 Yup, I dun it...

[DeRRis]

Originally Posted by Busta Rib

It's possible to install 100mm studs without removing the rear hubs. I did it on my car. There is a small hole on the inboard side of the hub where you can insert one stud at a time. Then use the method described in this thread (Wheel Stud replacement...A pictoral..) to pull the studs through. You need to remove the emergency brake components and brake dust shields but it is possible.

Could you let me know where that hole is? I tried to instal the studs without removing the flange but coudn't find any place to get enough "angle" to stick them through.

[GeorgeM]

The hole is where the parking brake cable goes through. You'll have to loosen up the parking brake stuff (i.e. remove the retainers) to remove the spreaders the spring between them, then you have a hole big enough to give you room to get the longer studs in there.

[911tracker85]

I did this recently.

replaced the studs years ago when doing bearings and to give me option on how to position the wheels when I was running this car at DE. ran a set of 17" kinesis for years. a few years ago decided to retire it from the track, now almost everything returned to stock.

did not realize that parking brake hole could be used, nice info.

when I put the original fuchs back on they sat inside too much for me. so I installed 25mm on rear and 10mm on front.

your wheels sit just a bit closer to the fender as I still have 2-3 degree neg camber from the DE/track days. but good to know/see it will still clear when I get around to changing the alignment.

it really makes the car look better with the wheels out near the fender. good job.

[DeRRis]

I also did not know you could use the parkingbrakecablehole. You learn something new every day. Lets just call it a rearwheelbearing replacement write-up

Anyways I like how it all turned out and I just love to work on these old 911

[87maniac]

I'd like opinions about the advantages/downsides to running
'bolt-on' wheel adapters vs. long studs & spacer plate (as OP did).

[Elombard]

I have no proof but those look less strong to me and I would avoid them if I could.

[safe]

Bolted on spacers is much easier and work fine, I use them all the time on the track.
Before anyone mention something like: "you can't re-torque, the wheel is going to fall off and you will die" (or some thing like that). It has never happened that any nut has come loose and I bolt mine on and of 10 times a year for ~6-8 years now.

But you can't use anything thinner than 18 mm.

And as you have mentioned you can change them (on the rear) without removing the hub.