Clutch Pedal limited excursion

[fizeus]

Pelicans please give me some hints on were to look.

I was in the middle of a "brake bleeding job" and looking at the clutch pedal I noted it rests too down to the floor.
Clutch do not slips and with the pedal fully down I can engage reverse gear with no grindings. My clutch works ok but with limited excursion (take out at 1cm from the floor and rests too close to the floor)
I only noted the shifts are a little hard when engine is cold... but I always considered this normal because when engine, and transmission fluid, is hot it works ok.

Looking at factory manual I should have no more than 2/2,5 cm of free cutch pedal play and actually I’m far away those numbers.

Here is a frontal photo of the pedal cluster:

Here is a lateral view:


And here is a lateral view with clutch pedal pulled (with my feet)



Where to look and how to fix ?

Thanks in advance for your help!

[DRACO A5OG]

It appears the cable has stretched, if you adjust and it still does not come up after use, then it could be your fork or at the Clevis or Pin at the pedal cluster that has sheared off.

Do you have the Helper Spring aka Omega Ring?

1st:
In any case there are two adjustments, at the clutch arm if you have the helper Spring with Arm. 1.20MM with cable removed, with the cable on the and turned in, gap should be 1.00MM.

2nd:
The above adjustment should bring the pedal up, if so then it is time to adjust the throw. With a caliper, take the measurements. ask a helper to press the pedal to the stop, the difference should be 25.0MM +/- 0.5MM

Clutch should engage at the half way point of the throw.

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by fizeus

Pelicans please give me some hints on were to look.

I was in the middle of a "brake bleeding job" and looking at the clutch pedal I noted it rests too down to the floor.
Clutch do not slips and with the pedal fully down I can engage reverse gear with no grindings. My clutch works ok but with limited excursion (take out at 1cm from the floor and rests too close to the floor)
I only noted the shifts are a little hard when engine is cold... but I always considered this normal because when engine, and transmission fluid, is hot it works ok.

Looking at factory manual I should have no more than 2/2,5 cm of free cutch pedal play and actually I’m far away those numbers.

Here is a frontal photo of the pedal cluster:

Here is a lateral view:


And here is a lateral view with clutch pedal pulled (with my feet)



Where to look and how to fix ?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Check out this article - it should help you resolve the clutch issue that you're having. If you have any other questions, feel free to post a Comment just below the article and we'll do our best to give you more specifics.

Porsche 911 Clutch Helper Spring Replacement | 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article


-Dmitry

[juanbenae]

look to see if something has made it way down into the pedal cluster that is not allowing it to return all the way. I lost a nut from a seat install effort that made its way into the cluster and wedged in between the clutch pedal at the base and the stop that exhibited the same exact symptom.

[fizeus]

I used the weekend to inspect the car and I found that my pedal cluster needs to be rebuilt because all plastic bushings are more than worn ... they are in pieces !

I suppose that my problem is due to broken bushings as you can see from the image below.


I saw that our host is selling brass made rebuilding kits. I 'm sure they will last longer but I'd like to ask if someone has found cons with them.

I just have one more question o trans/clutch experienced users.
Assuming that my pedal cluster is in the given condition ... Is this clutch arm free play normal?

https://sendvid.com/gvtvc9fg

[Jdub]

You will want to perform a search on this mini-project - look for P Zimmerman's comments on brass versus plastic. With either, you will not be replacing them again in your ownership of the car. I used brass but do see the reason for plastic.

Be very aware of the brass circular bushing and circlip that attaches the clutch cable. I would highly recommend a new clutch cable and be sure it is OEM. The combination of the new parts will absolutely amaze you when you get it out for your first drive.

Concerning your "lazy" clutch pedal all of that is adjusted once you get your new parts back in. You will use the adjustment at the Omega spring end to get your clutch pedal where you want it.

[fizeus]

Thank you for your helpful reply at first.
I read P Zimmerman's post and I get confirmations of my fears... metal on metal is not a good idea if parts are not constantly lubricated with oil.
I really think I 'll go with original plastic bushings.

P Zimmermann also suggested to replace clevis pin and fork but I can't find them on our host.
Is there anyone can provide PET IDs of the parts suggested ?
Thanks in advance

[911 Rod]

https://sendvid.com/gvtvc9fg

What the hell is this? ^^^

Sent my computer for a spiral and it had to be shut down to stop it.

[fizeus]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

https://sendvid.com/gvtvc9fg

What the hell is this? ^^^

Sent my computer for a spiral and it had to be shut down to stop it.

I'm sorry for this ... this is just a video sharing site.
Do not why but youtube was giving error while uploading data.

[Jdub]

Clevis pin: Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

Bushing for Clevis Pin: Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

Clutch roll pin: Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI