Pelican Parts Forums - Oil return tubes. Should they be able to slide back and forth?

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- - Oil return tubes. Should they be able to slide back and forth? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/952809-oil-return-tubes-should-they-able-slide-back-forth.html)

Can you tell us what wrong with aluminium types?
Cab you post link, or part number of the sachs lubrican? Is it this http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/4200-080-050-M38&SuperCat=Y&SVSVSI=.htm#
Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by proporsche (Post 9545896)

sugarwood..actually it is a pretty easy job providing you get the right tools and right lubrication.
When you get the collapsible tubes do not go for the aluminium types.
then get your self Sachs lubricant from Pelican parts.It is the best now days, it used to be Bosh-which is NLA.
In assembly, lube the inner 2 o rings well and try to slide the tubes with your hands if they move freely.Then put the c clip on then the female type tube which will stop on the clip.
When you are putting the tubes together make them long enough so they fit nicely in the space not to short not to long, then adjust the c clip .Try one before you assemble the others.
Make sure the part of the tube where the 2 o rings are go away from the exhaust.So towards the middle engine case.
In assembly insert the longer side to the camshaft housing and pull back the smaller side towards the engine case , you can help your self with a flat screwdriver on the lip of the smaller tube.then you use the pliers to slide clip to the space for it.i use the pliers trough the heat exchanger for an easy access.or if you get pliers with bend tips, it will for from the bottom of the engine.

I hope this helps

ivan

it takes me 20 min ,so one hour should do..oh yaa drain the engine case only before you do this.

My 3.2 had aluminum tubes 4 pieces for each tube, the o rings were shot and the ends came off the tubes when i removed them, I jb welded them back together and got new orings. I will replace them with the steel ones because they are starting to leak again. Silicone grease works good to make them slide. No heat exchanger removal neccesary it is just a bit harder on the left side. My first repair lasted about 3 years.

Lube definitely will help. I have done this many times prior to my build.

You don't need braun but as in all of our Porsche tasks, the proper tools or improvise the tools. Get two BFS's and equally pry the leaking offenders off after removal of the circlips, use electrical tape if you worry about marring the case of tubes then get some matching pry bars and two clamps the same ID as the OD of the tubes. Place the clamps where they need to be so the pry bars can press out and the tubes into the case and heads. I swear they will simply plop right in. Leak Free. Don't forget the circlip :D

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_11209.jpg

https://www.belmetric.com/images/CA1...ue%20Clamp.jpg

Removing the Heat Exchangers makes it even easier. :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann (Post 9548774)

... 2) you need very strong hands to work the two-piece tubes into position, and then expand them. You also need a selection of tools that can be used to pry the tubes into position; which is difficult to do without scratching/damaging the tubes...

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG (Post 9548986)

https://www.belmetric.com/images/CA1...ue%20Clamp.jpg

My 4 steps program... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/592674-oil-tubes-removing-refurbishing.html#post5856532

Quote:

Originally Posted by 997at (Post 9548817)

I just did this job on my car. What Pete says rings true. I used a hose clamp on one side of the tube and the lip on the other as leverage to separate them until the o rings seated. I used large circlip pliers to separate them. There is absolutely no way to do this without scratching the hell out of the tubes in my opinion.

I pushed the case side in first, then used a giant pair of channel locks to pull the other end into the head. With the Dow 111, pops right in,
No scratches....

Quote:

Originally Posted by 997at (Post 9548817)

I took my exhaust off and put two hose clamps on the tubes. I than used two small crowbars to expaned the tube. No scratsching here

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...pscp2eql1h.jpg

^^^Easy-peeezy with the exhaust removed. My comments were made to assist sugarwood with his decision based on his exhaust being on the car (as he wrote he has rusty studs). I don't know how much room B&B headers offer, but if it's anything like a stock heat exchanger it's a tight fit.

Tube quality. Aluminum tubes are not the cat's meow because they are made from pieces that are assembled with epoxy. At my shop we preferred the tubes sold at Porsche, where each section is a single, formed, piece. Anytime I can use a replacement part that has fewer opportunities to fail that's the part for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo (Post 9548923)

That's no random picture, Bob, butt the infamous "Leghorn" award. If I recall correctly, Pieholio presented that to Mr. Sprotin'aWoody in his "I'm going to measure and adjust my 911's valve lash, butt then again, maybe not" thread, so I guess that means he is a two-time recipient of the honor! :)

Heh heh

I like sugarwood. He is a righteous dude.

Leghorn award presented for valve lash. Upgraded to the rare Darth Leghorn award for actually attempting to remove his exhaust in a subsequent effort.