Oil return tubes. Should they be able to slide back and forth?
 

I have original oil return tubes.
I saw some oil gunked on them, and cleaned them off.

I was able to slide them back and forth in place.
Is this normal?

Probably not far off from them leaking. Mine were really loose. Started leaking just a bit when it was cold, turned into a pretty constant thing, so time to replace.

Fresh o-rings fit pretty tight, at least on the 2-piece tubes I installed on my car. Had to buy a special grease and everything to get them in.

Even new they can slide a small amount, but you are counting on the new O rings to seal. If yours are original they those O rings are probably undersize and when I did exactly what you did those tubes started leaking. So maybe think about getting a set of adjustable replacements now.

Be sure to slide them to the center (downside) of the engine for the time being.

I will let the oil return tubes be replaced by a pro.

It has two parts that scare off a beginner:

1) You need to destroy the part to remove it.
Now, if you can't reinstall the new part, you're F'ed

2) I read that it's very hard to get the replacement to snap into place.
When experienced people say something is hard, that means it will be impossible for me.
I have enough trouble disconnecting simply electrical plugs.

I cleaned the tubes off, and will reinspect after a few drives.

When the tubes leak, where does the oil typically end up landing?
All over the place, or just limited to the tubes area?

When my oil return tube seals failed, I had a pool of oil on my garage floor.

It's not THAT hard. Buy the grease. I got a 1oz tin from a scuba shop on Amazon for like $4. On my car (3.2) I had to remove the LH heat exchanger which added a couple of hours.

Thanks, jdub, I slid the tubes towards the center of the engine.

Matt, I have B&B headers, and I am not touching them since the exhaust studs are rusty.
The most experienced people on this forum say to steer clear a mile away from them.

sugarwood..actually it is a pretty easy job providing you get the right tools and right lubrication.
When you get the collapsible tubes do not go for the aluminium types.
then get your self Sachs lubricant from Pelican parts.It is the best now days, it used to be Bosh-which is NLA.
In assembly, lube the inner 2 o rings well and try to slide the tubes with your hands if they move freely.Then put the c clip on then the female type tube which will stop on the clip.
When you are putting the tubes together make them long enough so they fit nicely in the space not to short not to long, then adjust the c clip .Try one before you assemble the others.
Make sure the part of the tube where the 2 o rings are go away from the exhaust.So towards the middle engine case.
In assembly insert the longer side to the camshaft housing and pull back the smaller side towards the engine case , you can help your self with a flat screwdriver on the lip of the smaller tube.then you use the pliers to slide clip to the space for it.i use the pliers trough the heat exchanger for an easy access.or if you get pliers with bend tips, it will for from the bottom of the engine.

I hope this helps

ivan

it takes me 20 min ,so one hour should do..oh yaa drain the engine case only before you do this.

I read about the telescoping replacement tubes. The guy posted that he could not even get them to expand into place while they were just in his hands, outside of the car. That's when I knew it would be near impossible to get them to expand while on the car, in a tight space. That was enough to scare me away, b/c that seems all too real. I think the guy said he finally got them to click, but it was a nightmare installation. Does that sounds like the aluminium tubes?

Got a link for the easier to install C-clip non-aluminium tubes?

Hi..do not use aluminium tubes ..in my book they are Mickey Mouse...
As i have written you have to get the Sachs lube from Pelican.This will make the job 100% easy to do...Any other lubrication you will wrestle the tube to come a part.i hoped i`ve explained that above?
but then again everybody does what they want....

Ivanhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/men_ani.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/men_ani.gif

Variety is the spice of life, they say.

I did this job recently on my 3.6 along with lots of other seals. I did use an aluminum model of expandable oil return tube, and my Indy was supportive of that decision. Decades of air-cooled experience in that shop.

Make sure to use some lubricant on the o-rings or they definitely will not slide. I used Dow 111, as I recall. No issues on assembly and no leaks after a year.

I pulled the heat exchangers for access. A proper torch on the fasteners, getting them cherry red, and the four that were not already persuaded by penetrating oil, came right loose. In my case, much ado about nothing.

That's my experience, your mileage may very...

I may have made a mistake. Is this the random picture thread?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492035307.jpg

Over 5 years ago I replaced mine with the expanding aluminum type, so far still tight and dry. Did not remove the heat exchangers as the fasteners were rusty and did not want to deal with that issue as well.
Before digging into it i read through the hints and suggestions posted by others, it required some work arounds but job was completed over a weekend.
One suggestion is to throughly clean the surrounding area before removing the old tubes, once the tubes are removed there are large access holes directly into the engine.

sugarwood; two things. 1) When the tubes start to leak, it usually happens after the car sits unused for three or more days. As the oil level in the crankcase slowly rises, the oil will reach the tubes/o-rings and they will drip enough to leave a small puddle on the floor under the engine. 2) you need very strong hands to work the two-piece tubes into position, and then expand them. You also need a selection of tools that can be used to pry the tubes into position; which is difficult to do without scratching/damaging the tubes.

Yes, lubrication of the sort already mentioned helps, but the job is still a bit difficult to do. That's my $0.02...

I just did this job on my car. What Pete says rings true. I used a hose clamp on one side of the tube and the lip on the other as leverage to separate them until the o rings seated. I used large circlip pliers to separate them. There is absolutely no way to do this without scratching the hell out of the tubes in my opinion.

^^ I used a similar methods but with a hose clamp on each tube. They got a little scratched - and I also used Syl Glide from NAPA on the O rings.

That's no random picture, Bob, butt the infamous "Leghorn" award. If I recall correctly, Pieholio presented that to Mr. Sprotin'aWoody in his "I'm going to measure and adjust my 911's valve lash, butt then again, maybe not" thread, so I guess that means he is a two-time recipient of the honor! :)

boys boys..as i have mentioned above..(i am an retired 911 mechanic).This job takes me 20 minutes plus 5 to remove the old tubes.For a novice it should be done in 1 hour
No need to remove the the heat ex.
Sugar...wood follow my instructions and you can do it your self.
I am also pointing out the lubricant from our host because i have 30 years of experience working on these 911 beasts.
It is not a rocket science to do these tubes...and yes aluminium tubes suck..just look at the inner size of the o rings.....

Ivan