As long as the contours of the FG hood are correct, the gaps and minor height differences can easily be corrected by an experienced FG body man (or even by an amateur who is willing to learn).

Thanks. I think I am heading to a sheetmetal solution however.

Here is the effort today massaging the metal fenders to fit:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494901869.jpg

It helped having the hood/lid on there.

Like the black and white look. Retro cop car.

hey mike, did you do the dansk or porsche fenders?...

I am diggin the look too. I will drive it a while before painting. I may just keep the bumpers black.

Marc, the parts are new from Porsche.

So this sequence worked out well for me:

Keep the original hood on, then exchange the fenders and get them to align well with the chassis and hood, then fit the bumper and align well with the other bits, then replace the hood.

I am wondering how I will make sure to keep the alignment once I take everything off for paint. Someone suggested, in another thread, to drill holes through the mating parts and cleco them together. When reinstalling the painted part, line up these small holes, reinstall the clecos, fasten with normal hardware, and then remove and fill the cleco holes. Are there any other creative ideas?

I received my metal hood, and, with the help of my wife and an abandoned pack of Coors Light (only used for the zombie apocalypse when the good stuff runs out), I got it installed and aligned in about 15 minutes. Pretty easy actually. The fit is great. I used one spacer on each of the rear attach locations.

The hood has one flat spot that will have to be dealt with and some superficial scratches that were touched up - it came from Porsche that way I think as there was no evidence of tampering with the box.

After taping off the mating body edges that could be damaged and using some towels in the vulnerable areas, I was able to do it unscathed. The beer box helped raise the hood so that I could fasten the screws. I used the same arrangement to remove the old hood.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497132203.jpg

I think I am now needing to remove all of these metal items and send them out for paint !

Very nice Mike. All metal front end, that is awesome.

David

Thanks David! I have been rear ended twice (in about 30 years of owning this car) and pushed under the cars ahead of me. I wanted the steel up front. I also went all steel in back.

It's looking real good Mike!

Thanks Lou! Is this taking me forever or what?!

lol, yes it has been a while but that's what happens when you do it right.

Keep up the good work!!
 

Yes it takes forever. I have days and weeks, maybe even months, into the assembly of the front of my backdate. On of these days I'll do a build thread on it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503968492.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503968641.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503968715.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503968796.jpg

What a great build!
Just a word of caution IF you are going to use hood shocks- in my build they pushed up taking up whatever slack there was in the hinges (they may seem nice and tight with little or no slop until you put the extreme pressure from the shock). Co-incidentally, Jonny042, who just posted above, came to the rescue with a replacement hinge that I was able to use.
Cheers,
Johan

No shocks for me - I have the carbon prop rod.