Stuck Axle nuts

Dug89 · 11-12-2001, 05:00 AM

Anyone have a trick way to loosen 911 axle nuts? I'm off to Sears to replace my broken 1/2 inch breaker bar.

I'm trying to replace my rear bearings and I got stuck on the first task!

Thanks in advance.

Doug '84 911 ROW

Desert Man · 11-12-2001, 05:25 AM

I just had my wrench replace the real half-shafts on my '88 Carrera and the only reason I didn't do it myself is the nuts on the rotor side of the shaft require at least 342 ft. lbs. of torque to remove them. The only way to do it is either a mechanics air impact, or a 3/4" drive break-over bar and a pipe!

Rot 911 · 11-12-2001, 05:38 AM

Doug, Desert is right on the money. When you go to Sears, make sure you get that 3/4" breaker bar!

cary · 11-12-2001, 06:10 AM

Car on the ground. And LONGER pipe.

Check the torque specs.
My spec book says 300-320 Nm's not ft lbs.
If I remember right. It about 230 -240 ft lbs.

Maybe Mr. Walker will jump in with the exact spec.

KTL · 11-12-2001, 06:28 AM

It's 460Nm/340lb-ft. I believe Cary's spec. is for the castellated nut-type, not the lock nut-type. Yep, you'll need the 3/4 in. stuff with a length of pipe as well (if you don't have an impact).

john walker's workshop · 11-12-2001, 06:52 AM

pop off the hubcap and put the wheel back on. set it on the ground with the e/brake on and have at it. big breaker bar, pipe extension and pull from the 12 o'clock position. even an air wrench won't get them off unless it's a 3/4 or 1'' truck lug nut model.

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

JW is right...unless you have an industrial pressure, an impact wrench won't work.....my oldest and most favorite tool is my five foot long steel pipe. 2 inch ID, slips over my 3/4 flex handle......

Set the car on the ground and with wheels on, set the handle and pipe at 9 o'clock and jump on it....get yer fat friend or call me, 200 lbs of fat guy does the trick.....

Oh yeah....REMEMBER to pull the cotter pin first.....

beepbeep · 11-12-2001, 07:06 AM

Been there done that.

Get 3/4 inch heavy duty wrench, heat the nut slightly...

450 Nm is plenty of torque...

tobluforu · tobluforu's Garage

you can do it without the car on the ground-i just did. You will need another breaker type bar to put between wheel studs and have it rest on the ground. Then crank it off with the above mentioned tools. Don't forget to take rear rotor off first. The on ground method is easier though

jabb · 11-12-2001, 08:19 AM

If you wedge a bar between the wheel studs. Make sure you protect the studs with some rubber hose. Thats how I got mine off. Bar between studs lage bar on Breaker bar and emergency brake locked. Good luck

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

What's with the wedge the bar routine? THE SAFE WAY, is to put the wheel back on.....then lower the car to the ground.....

Let's look at the scenario as suggested....car on jack stand, wheel off, breaker bar and a slip over "your not listening" pipe....my fat butt jumping on the end.....to me, that's unsafe.

Take a few more minutes and put the wheel back on lower the car.....

Be SAFE, BE smart....

Dug89 · 11-12-2001, 10:30 AM

Thanks All for the replies. Sears did not have any 3/4 inch 30MM sockets so will try elsewhere. They did, however, replace my 1/2 inch breaker bar without any questions. Good 'ole Sears.

Doug

John Brandt · 11-12-2001, 11:15 AM

Dug,

don't worry about 3/4" drive, the half inch will work OK. you'll just break 'em occasionally. thats why you bought lifetime warranty tools. Big pipe, and wrap the threads with tape so you dont cut yourself

if your car is an '84 it has the castellated nut so cary's spec was right, and ditto I say to mikez. the car in the air is a disaster scenario waiting for you

gchappel · 11-12-2001, 11:24 AM

Double check, but I think that axle nut is a 32mm.
I did mine about 2 weeks ago- same exact problems- could not get the axle nut off. Did you know that with an extension bar you can bend your 1/2" breaker bar- I found that out. Finally borrowed a mechanics REALLY BIG impact wrench- and the nut came right off- seemed easy once I had the correct tools.
Gary

cary · 11-12-2001, 05:35 PM

What year did it change from a castellated nut with a cotter pin ? To a lock nut ?

CamB · CamB's Garage

How do you retorque the nut to those settings?

In terms of undoing it, I seem to remember someone posting about undoing (something? the axle nut) using the "jack" method. In other words, jack up the breaker bar!

Or was it jack up the car, put an axle stand under the breaker bar, then lower the car...

Cam

jthwan22 · 11-12-2001, 11:11 PM

If you need 340 ft/lb all you need is some simple math. 340/your weight=distance form socket. Example if you weight 170lb, you will need 2 ft distance when standing on braker bar with extension. No jumping up and down. Just stand on it till it stop turning.

Harold_89_911 · 11-13-2001, 09:17 PM

Actually a piece of cake with the right tools. Tried it with my 1/2" set and got way too much flex. Sears wanted $15 for the 1 1/4 (32 mm) 3/4" socket and $50 for a short breaker bar. Would have needed a new steel bar too. Just too much money for something I will only rarely use. So I went the cheap way and got a complete metric 3/4" set from Harbor Freight Tools for $43 (17 sockets, ratchet, extensions, etc.). Finish not very nice (made in China) but a lot of steel for the money (over 30 lbs). Also bought a nice long breaker bar for 3/4" that still fits my steel extension ($20). Got the axle nut off in less than 10 seconds (car on the ground, wheel on, hand-brake, and in gear). No jumping or any other funny business required. Just some nice stiff tools and plenty of leverage.

Don't even mess with the 1/2" stuff for this job. Just not the right tool for it.

Rufblackbird · 11-13-2001, 11:32 PM

I don't know what size the axle nut is on the 911, but on my VW GTi, it was a 30mm nut. Went down to Home Depot since Sears was closed already, and bought one, for $5, with lifetime guarantee also.

GIBSON · GIBSON's Garage

I recently became brain dead and removed my entire rear suspension (along with engine and trans) before removing the axle nut. It makes a somewhat difficult job a real pain in the butt. I have to replace my 73's right rear trailing arm due to kink the previous owner put in it. I decided to go aluminum so had to remove the axle nuts to slide out the cv joint flanges. One side came off fairly well, old torsion bar between the wheel studs, me standing on the trailing arm, 1/2 in breaker bar with a pipe on the end. The other one I had to cut off. Worked fine but even with the nut sliced all the way through it was hard to turn.
Remove 'em on the car, it's much easier.
Bruce Herrmann