![]() |
|
|
|
Moderator
|
Shift coupler - different issue
I have been having trouble with the coupler, despite new bushes EVERYWHERE.
It transpires it is because the little bolt which goes into the shift rod on the transmission side has stripped the threads in the coupler. The threads on the bolt are still ok, as (it appears) is the conical hole in the rod for the end of the bolt. Can I get away with helicoiling or timecerting the coupler? What thread is the little bolt? Yes I could (and probably will) measure it, but I like to ask. Alternatively, could I get a machine shop to press in somehow an insert with the original thread into the coupler? I know a new coupler is cheap. In the US. They cost more than 50% more here through the dealership and freight kills any joy of ordering from Pelican. Hmmm, I could just "borrow" the one from the '75 in the meantime... Now there is an idea!
__________________
1975 911S (in bits) 1969 911T (goes, but need fettling) 1973 BMW 2002tii (in bits, now with turbo) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
That little set-screw was probably cross-threaded at one time, which would have compromised the threads in the softer metal of the coupler. This type of repair would seem well suited for a helicoil, as the force on the set-screw is mostly torsional (i.e. once in place and properly tightened there is very little additional stress on the threads). As an alternative, I would also think you could re-bore and tap the hole in the coupler one size larger and carefully grind a cone on a new, larger set-screw.
Good luck, Jerry M '78 SC |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 5,067
|
Bite the bullet and buy a new one.
__________________
1984 Targa |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
Posts: 22,734
|
Yep, use the one from the spare parts car
![]() |
||
![]() |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Ouch- I imagine the coupler would go for NZ$200 or thereabouts back home
![]() I did the shift bushing replacement yesterday- had a hell of a time getting the cone screw undone & started to think I'd have to drill the thing out. Thankfully I didn't need to resort to that. The thread on the coupler itself is fine, but I'll get a new conescrew. Although I think tugging on the coupler to get the thing lose caused the transmission to shift out of first gear. I assume this is going to make it difficult to set the shift adjustment once I get the coupler back w/ new bushings pressed in? |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Manassas Va
Posts: 768
|
Andrew,
If it's out of first gear don't worry too much as it can be adjusted in Neutral anyway. Here's the info for you. Following the factory shifter adjustment procedure. a) Take off the cover between the rear seats which exposes the shift coupler. b) Loosen the retaining bolt which pinches the shift rod on to the spline on the shift coupler. Let it be very loose. c) WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, rotate the shift coupler clockwise when viewed facing towards the front of the car. You should be able to feel the coupler rub against the various shift stops as you rotate it back and forth. Rotate it to the furthest clockwise position, as seen when you are facing forward. d) Keep your hand on it and hold it there. Don’t let it wiggle, if it does, turn it back to the furthest clockwise position. e) Move the shift lever so that the more vertical part of the lever is vertical (ie 90 degrees to the level...sticking straight up so to speak). Move it so that it lightly touches the side of the shifter housing which is on the 1st/2nd gear side.....closest to the driver, placing the shifter lever in the neutral position between 1st and 2nd. f) They should now be properly aligned.....lever closest to the driver with bottom part vertical, coupler clockwise in the neutral plane. g) Carefully tighten the pinch bolt. Make sure it is quite tight. h) Check things out. You must be able to engage reverse clash free (give the gear a little bit of time to stop after you stomp on the clutch), shifting should get to all the gears easily when driving.....things don’t work as smoothly when stopped and lastly, there must be a little bit of rotational play when 5th gear is selected. This is checked by shifting into 5th, and feeling whether you can wiggle the shift coupler with your hand. It should just click back and forth slightly...not much, but clearly discernable play. i) Assuming all is well, put all the covers back. If it is not well....my fervent suggestion is that you START OVER at b. Dan O 84' 3.2 Targa
__________________
Dan O 84' 3.2 Targa |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |