Will POR-15 stick to factory seam sealer?

[cowtown]

Hi everyone,
I'm getting ready to POR-15 the entire floor and back deck of my '75 911S...I've stripped every bit of carpet glue, and wire brushed the entire area. I've got about 25 hours into it.

Now, I'm wondering if I need to remove the original seam sealer in the rear seat area. Will the POR-15 stick to it if I paint over it? I'm not interested in the looks of it, just longevity.

Thanks for any advice,
Colin

[targa80]

Cowtown:

MOOO!!! I get a kick out of the California Cheese commercials with the talking cows.

I can't give you any advice on the Por-15 since I have not had the opportunity to use it yet. Maybe you can contact the manufacturer at there web site and ask them. What I am interested in right now is what you used to remove the glue and left over padding from the seat area? Also, are you planning on putting the padding back in?

[dean]

I believe POR-15 will stick like regular paint will to seam sealer. The advantage of POR-15 is on bare metal

[cowtown]

Well MOOOO yourself Pat.

Before anything else, I pried up all the tar coating on my floor with a paint scraper and occasional heat application via heatgun.

To remove the glue and padding, I am using a huge amount of scraping, MEK, and a huge amount of beer.

I pulled out everything I could, and started scraping it when dry before hitting it with any chemicals. This is slow and frustrating.

I tried MEK on a washcloth and Scotchbrite sponge. You must wear a respirator with this stuff. It was ok but not great at softening the glue. I found paper shop towels to be the best compromise in material and evaporation rate of the MEK.

Today, I also tried a wire wheel on an air drill. Wear a paint mask with this approach because the powder goes everywhere. It was pretty good at knocking off the glue in places that had NOT been exposed to MEK. It just tends to move the gummy previously-MEKed glue around on the metal. After wheeling an area, it was much easier to pick up the remnants with the MEK and shop towels. Downside of wheeling is that you will take some paint off (irrelevant in my case).

So, in summary, if I were to start again (and thank God I don't have to, because I'm almost out of beer), I would :
1.) scrape the glue with a scraper, then
2.) hit the dry glue with a wire wheel, then
3.) get out the solvent (MEK) only when I had taken out absolutely everything I could by mechanical means.

This is one long, yucky job, but it will (hopefully) be worth it. I will post before-and-after pictures when done.

I am not planing to put in any padding, as this will be a lightweight track/street car.

I may or may not put in carpet, depending on how the paint looks. I will have to topcoat the POR-15 with conventional paint because I understand it breaks down when exposed to UV.

Good luck

[targa80]

Colin:

Thank you for the info, it looks like I will attack mine with a scraper and wire wheel also. I have been telling myself that this is going to be a long lousy job.

Pat

[ChrisBennet]

I've heard of people using dry ice to remove undercoating. Anyone try it?
-Chris