Tool suggestions for newbie

[echecsqueen]

I am trying to learn how to do small repairs on my P car myself and find myself lacking correct tools each time I tackle a job. Instead of taking 3-4 trips to the hardware store each weekend, I thought the more experienced among you might share ideas for the best/most useful tools to have.
I am starting almost from scratch and would love brand names too as I hate to have tools that break or are poor quality. My first purchase was a stubby hex set that someone recommended on this forum and I have put it to good use several times already.

Other suggestions? What tools do you use the most?? What brand tools do you like ?

[gtc]

This stuff will get you through about 95% of the repairs.

Quality jack and jack stands
1/2" Breaker bar and 19mm socket for removing lug nuts.
1/4 and 3/8" drive ratchets and metric socket sets. (up to 22mm or so)
Set of quality screwdrivers (I have a Husky 6 in 1 screwdriver that i use for most things)
Hex keys (L-handle) and hex sockets (3/8 drive)
Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches
Needlenose pliers, diagonal cutters, wire stripper/crimper, channel lock pliers (Klein, Knipex or other quality brand)
Dead blow hammer (the cheap orange ones at harbor freight work fine)
Decent digital multimeter
Portable work light - the rechargeable cordless LED lights these days are handy.

[AC78]

And a Hazet Assistent to carry it all! (see a few threads below)

[zelrik911]

Because you are just starting, you should get a couple of sets of cheaper tools to get a range of sizes. You will quickly get to know which spanners & stuff are used most, so then buy that size in a good quality tool.

You will gradually get a collection of good stuff and have the original cheap stuff for odd occasions & to customise. Source a good tool store & befriend the salesperson.

I promise you that you will need a Dremel for drilling & cutting, so buy a good set when the 'special' sales are on.

Another tip is to keep an eagle eye out for 2nd hand stuff when people move house or retire or whatever, be aware that many of the simple tools in older car toolkits were very good quality especially japanese & euro & are usually given away at yard sales.

Look after your tools & they will look after you. Develop a firm policy on 'lending' out tools. Usually the tool you lend will be the most needed the next day.

[T77911S]

not sure what the deal is going to be with sears if they go out of business but go buy one of their nice tool sets.
you cant beat the deal. even though I have a lot of tools, when I was looking at them for my son I almost bought me another one just because they are such a good deal.

harbor freight has a nice big low profile jack for a little over 100. its heavy but it goes very hi. its the grey one. there are 2 sizes, get the bigger one.

also the 6ton stands from HF. about $40.

some VERY useful tools that you may not think of.
large channel locks from sears
vacuum hand pump. they come as brake bleed kit.
advance?- flexible magnetic pickup tool with a light on the end
small sanding pads and air tool from HF. great for cleaning up metal surfaces.
tap and die set or thread chase set
test light for electrical work. cheaper and easier than a MM,

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by echecsqueen

I am trying to learn how to do small repairs on my P car myself and find myself lacking correct tools each time I tackle a job. Instead of taking 3-4 trips to the hardware store each weekend, I thought the more experienced among you might share ideas for the best/most useful tools to have.
I am starting almost from scratch and would love brand names too as I hate to have tools that break or are poor quality. My first purchase was a stubby hex set that someone recommended on this forum and I have put it to good use several times already.

Other suggestions? What tools do you use the most?? What brand tools do you like ?

Queen,

As you mentioned, you are a newbie like most of us awhile back. Having all these fancy tools is nice to have but I would suggest that you focus more on your skill development instead. I have personally seen several DIY'ers' tool boxes filled with all assortment of tools and gadgets that were unused. And they look like they just came out from their packagings. As you gained experience, gradually buy needed tools only. Or if you are the sort of person that enjoys building special tools will help you more to understand how things are done.

I did not own any Stromski special tools until after I have done a few engine rebuilds and began to realize how good these tools are. Having the correct tools is a never ending activity. After more than 60 years of DIY'er wrenching, I still look for new tools for my projects. A hydraulic lift is great to have but this could wait until you decide to buy one.

Tony

[ganun]

here are some special tools for the 911.
1) 22x24 mm deep offset will do brake switches, shocks, alternator belt pulley, shop around. I have a MAC tools.
2) oil wrench set for the cooler and oil lines in general from host
3) valve adjustment feeler gauge, save you big bucks when you do your own adjustment, from host.
4) cig lighter plug in volt meter , ebay.

[gtc]

I was just turned on to the knipex "pliers wrench." They are expensive, about $50, but really cool. They pretty much eliminate the need for a crescent wrench or a pair of channel locks.

[JRSIII]

My two cents…by far and away the tools you use most frequently are combination wrenches and ratchet/sockets. Metric of course. In my mind, for the DIY’er / shadetree mechanic, Craftsman tools from Sears or Kobalt tools from Lowes work fine. I’m tending to gravitate toward the Kobalts as I find myself in Lowes every weekend for home improvement stuff and Sears stores are becoming more and more scarce.

I’d start with a metric combination wrench set, 8mm through 19mm, regular, and a metric combination wrench set, 8mm through 19mm, with ratcheting box end. Why both you ask? The ratcheting wrenches are handy as can be, but there are times you are going to want to put the box end on a stubborn or rusty bolt and whack the open end with a hammer to try to break the bolt free. One example is the bottom 19mm rear caliper bolt, that you can’t get a breaker bar and socket on due to clearance issues with the trailing arm. You don’t want to use the more expensive ratcheting wrenches for this as they can be damaged. This job is best left to dumb iron.

Next I’d buy both a 3/8” drive and a ¼” drive ratchet and metric socket set. Lowes as a 3/8” Kobalt set for $20 or $25 that includes ratchet, deep drive and standard sockets, a 3” extension, a gimbal adapter, and a plastic case. They make a similar set in ¼”. At some point you'll want 1/2" drive as well for larger jobs.

As noted above, you’ll then want an assortment of screwdrivers, adjustable wrenches, channel-lock pliers, etc.

One thing you’ll eventually need will be a good ½” drive torque wrench. The type that breaks over and clicks at the set torque and not the cheaper needle and scale type, if they even still make those. One with a range of 25-125 ft-lbs (with corresponding N-m scale) will be adequate for most jobs. However, if you ever get around to changing ball joints, you’ll need one that goes up to 250 ft-lbs, as they castellated nut needs to be torqued to 184 ft-lbs. This might be a time you want to invest in a good lightly used Snap-On tool off ebay.

Eventually you’ll want a cordless driver drill. I like Dewalt. I’d suggest buying a kit that comes with both a drill-driver and a ¼” impact driver. A good time to shop for these is around Christmas, as they are hugely popular as gift items. Last Christmas I found an 18V Dewalt set that came with drill-driver, impact driver, two batteries, a charger, and a canvas carry bag for $99 at Home Depot. Great value.

Something that hasn’t been mentioned, and I think is the single handiest thing I have in my tool box….one of those flexible wands with a handle on one end and a magnet on the other. You’ll constantly use this to retrieve bolts, nuts, and washers that you drop into cracks and can’t get a hand to. Also handy is one of those mirror on a stick contraptions.

All this being said, it seems that no matter how many tools I have, each time I start a new job I discover there is something else I need. For instance, when you do the first brake hose replacement, you’ll probably realize you don’t have an 11mm line wrench. It’s off to the hardware store. But I guess that’s part of the fun.

[autojack]

No one has mentioned a torque wrench yet. I have two, a Tekton 10-100 lb-ft and a Husky 50-250 lb-ft. I only ever need the big one for torquing lug nuts, where its long handle makes the job a little easier at the 75-85 lb-ft range. Properly torquing fasteners is important for safety and durability.

[echecsqueen]

Thanks all!!! I LOVE this forum. You guys are the best.

Great suggestions. Anyone else live in a humid climate where tools rust? I have a friend who uses desiccant in his tool drawers but that seems to be a PIA. Any other ideas to keep tools from corroding? It seems that some brands corrode more than others. Thanks

the queen

[911obgyn]

If you are working on the interior you will find you use every type of screwdriver and size of metric nutdriver you can get your hands on. One of my favorites is a ratcheting stubby right angle screwdriver.

[JRSIII]

^^^^^^

Absolutely this. Can't believe I forgot to mention. A metric nut driver set is invaluable.



As for the rust question...It's pretty darn humid here in Houston, and I've never had a problem. Keep your tools organized and cleaned up after each use and rust shouldn't be a concern.

[JSV798]

You'll need the Porsche spark plug socket to get the spark plugs out: nothing else worked for me. Like this one I've had for nearly 40 years. I use on other cars too

[911 Rod]

I have lots of tools and use most of them. Until about 5 years ago they were scattered in multiple drawers and tool boxes. I bought a 57" tool box and never looked back. Everything is now where it should be and with like tools.
Keeps you organized and you can be working instead of looking for s##t!

[sugarwood]

I built up my tool collection by simply buying the tools I needed for each subsequent repair.
At first, it increases the cost of the repair, but after a few years, they pay dividends.
Tools are an investment in your learning and hobby.

[rwest]

I would recommend staying away from the real cheap Harbor Freight style of wrench and socket sets. They work just fine when the going is easy, however they can strip a fastener that is giving up a fight because their tolerances can be sloppy, then you have a bigger problem.

I really like my Snap-on stuff, although it is expensive. I started out on $200 of Craftsman tools thirty years ago and did tons of car repair, now somehow I need several thousand worth of Snap-on and hardly work on cars!

You'll have to balance your budget and needs. Remember, buying cheap and then replacing with good costs more than just getting good first.

[Cajundaddy]

Lots of great suggestions. I didn't see lithium cordless drill/driver. I think this is my most used tool these days. Get a large assortment of bits and a flex extension. With this tool you can handle all manner of screws, torx bits, allen, hex, whatever. Some guys like the big manly (heavy) 18v max torque guns. I have one but find myself mostly use a smaller lightweight Makita that I can get in to all sorts of tight places or work overhead for extended periods without fatigue.
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/14540173231914253621?lsf=seller:1135568,store:3393 253856512187126&prds=oid:3925461602938697427&q=cordless+flex+adapter&hl=en&ei=5nEnWb7oNOiX0wKClrDAAg&lsft=gclid:CPLwyZKijNQCFYSTfgodwmQDRQ

Another useful tool for old cars: A 1/2" breaker bar and 4' x1" galvanized pipe as a helper. Lots of old rusted bolts that respond well to a little leverage.

[bickyd]

I would suggest you buy yourself a good foam kneepad for the hours you will spend in the engine compartment cleaning , troubleshooting and drooling. Cheap and your knees will thank you later. I feel that the Bentley manual is essential reference tool also. They are wonderful cars.

[T77911S]

Originally Posted by JSV798

You'll need the Porsche spark plug socket to get the spark plugs out: nothing else worked for me. Like this one I've had for nearly 40 years. I use on other cars too

3 inch extension on a swivel with a sparkplug socket, all welded together.

I have the Porsche tool, mine has a spring and swivel on it, still prefer the home made one.
you can put a ratchet on the homemade one. my Porsche tool has something like an alllen wrench, don't remember if a ratchet fit the other part.