Very ingenious.
Kudos!
I've been very impressed with the quality of Rustoleum paint.

No updates from those who did this a while ago??? It would be appreciated.

I was studying this again as well as checking online for paints. The Krylon paint illustrated is not "dull" but 'bright". I see what appears to be the same paint online and am hoping someone can confirm this is the same 1403. I also found a Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403 which looks quite different.

I'm impressed with the work put into this as well as the results. I mostly want to use the correct product.

Looks great!

I had a cracked rim and a partial can of 2k paint so I thought I would give it a try.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598715995.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598715995.jpg

So far so good. Even though I used the 3M duct tape I still had some leakage. If I do this again I will get a tub big enough for my wheel and I will put the tub and add water.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598811028.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598811028.jpg

The paint was not quite dry but I was paranoid about my water leaking out so using a tooth pick I removed most of the silver paint that was sitting on the surface of the water.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598811710.jpg

Overall I'm very happy with the results and the effort that I put it to this rim. For my good rims I will have them powder coated black (everything) then apply to Eastwood 2K silver paint.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598819995.jpg

FYI,

My mistake was NOT covering up the lug holes. Once you tightened the lugs, the paint will crack which may extend beyond the hole!!

Serge

Nice info and thanks!

I am getting ready to try this. I am including photos of the paint I purchased yesterday. Can graphics are different but this is the only 1403 Dull Aluminum I could find.

Finally settled on O' Reilly's about 6$ a can.

alwaysflat6' hope this helps.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611435982.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611435982.jpg

There's a real issue (or detail) about preserving the paint. How to protect it so it lasts years (?) before redoing the process?

Sherwood

All you can do is buy the best paint available. That is why I chose the 2K paint at $25 per can

Subscribed and awesome!

Agree with Harpo do this is a tub instead of taping the backsides. Easier and no mess if your taping leaks during the paint drying process.

Thanks for sharing. FWIW, some reviews re: 2K Clear from Bezos:
https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-14148Z-Spray-Paint/dp/B0743FCN5L/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=eastwood+2k+spray+pai nt%2C+matte+black&qid=1611453970&sr=8-1

Sherwood

Unfortunately I have not yet found a tub that is big enough to put a rim in. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it.

David

Is there anyone that has done this and can report back on longevity? I am only curious about painting the petals and wear and tear of washing, etc...

I am going to go on ahead with the process and will report how things are holding up - i'll try and log in here to give updates.

I deliberately left my wheel outside since August and still looks awesome

Would love to see longevity updates from those who embarked on this.

I'm the original poster and I haven't been back to this thread in a long time. It's great to see that it got some traction and others have found this helpful!

It's been over 5 years since I did this, and my wheels have held up great. That said, my car doesn't get exposed to a lot of harsh conditions. I do a fair amount of weekend driving during the summer months, and once a year I do a 2 day touring/rally event - about 250 miles with some pretty aggressive driving on back roads. I've picked up some rock chips on my hood, but nothing on the wheels. I don't drive the car in the winter, so they have never been exposed to salt or anything like that, and they have never been through an automatic carwash.

Looking back at my original post, I had some questions whether or not I used the right paint, but I ended up using on clear coat on them and they have held up beautifully. Any of the concerns that others expressed about adhesion, etc. don't seem to be an issue. They look like the day I did them.

Very Cool

Great follow up. Thank you!

I have always loved the RSR finish on Fuchs.

Here is how I did it..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1672879873.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1672879873.jpg

My wheels were polished, California bling bling by someone famous for 1600.00, too much for me. 6 months so far all good.

Damn. Looks good.

How did you do the black portion or was that already black? I have fully polished wheels I would love to look like yours.

Umm. I don't want to be a killjoy, but that stuff is for painting over wood. It will delaminate and fall off the aluminium wheels some time.

Probably, but still look great after 6 months of beach air..

Surviving in beach air. That's a good sign.

Maverick, the black as already done, the satin just knocked it down perfect. This stuff shoots like a dream, very quick like 2 minutes. If it does fall off I will shoot it again it is fast and easy to do, I used an air brush, no problem with over spray. That's why I do not care if it needs touch up in the future this worked so fast I did all 4 in 10 minutes.

Stunning results. Did you scuff or sand the polished areas prior to spraying the Minwax satin? Can you clarify how you prepped the polished areas to get the ‘anodized’ satin look?

Nice, I like the method!

Yeah, I used some green Scotch-bright and Dawn and washed the wheels on a hot day so they would dry . I did not go crazy just a light scrub because I did not think it would work, or it would run or be cloudy or splotchy. Came out perfect, fast with no overspray. After I did one I was motivated.

Yea, it will be interesting to see how it lasts, its water based and I don't *think* it's UV blocking and pretty sure it's not designed for outdoor usage. (And certainly not on aluminum LOL)

That said, sometimes products designed for X application work great for Y application. Is the car in the sun a lot?

to add an xref: I don't have a spray set up. I found what seems to be the same product in spray cans and may give it a try. "Minwax 33333000 Polycrylic Protective Finish Spray for Wood, Clear Satin, 11.5 oz. Aerosol Can" It's about $14.00.

I got no idea if it will work.. I just tried what I had laying around and was not expecting the results.
There are a lot of good clear coats out there I have used, Summit Racing. old PPG, Imron on my Saab EMS in 1976, Diamond clear, Eastwoods Nylac.. the MinWax water base has NOT held up on my wood dog gate after a year, so take any thing I do with a grain of salt. Have you seen my other threads? Your going to poop when you see my next *&^%$#@.

Rattle can clear 2K comes in gloss, satin and matte… it’ll last forever and is as easy to apply as any spray paint.

I’d choose that over any other clear coating.

Yup. Polycrylic isn't even water proof. I put a cold can of soda on a desk I did with it and it left a permanent white ring. Do not use that stuff on your wheels.