RSR Finish - Super simple 30 minute DIY
 

I decided to try my hand at creating an RSR finish on a set of Euromeisters that I have sitting in the garage. I have read just about every post on how to do this. I was not thrilled with the idea of masking the wheels...it just seemed like a LOT of work. But, I was really inspired by what I understand to be the original method that Porsche used - flooding or dipping the wheels to get the black part. Since I had a brand new set of wheels with good black paint, I decided to "reverse" the process by flooding the wheel with water to "mask" the area I did NOT want to paint.

Here is the step-by-step process that I used:

1. Use duct tape to seal off all the holes from the back side of the wheel. Be sure to use "waterproof" or "weatherproof" tape. I used the 3M version, which worked great.

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2. SLOWLY pour water into the face of the wheel. I used a water bottle only filled about 1/2 way. You do not want to splash any water on the paddles where you want to paint.

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3. Fill the water to the point where the black paint meets the unpainted rim. Make sure the rim is level. It will become obvious it if is not. Since my garage floor had a slight taper to it, I had to add a small shim to get it perfectly level. Again, the water line will tell you when it is perfectly level.

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4. Spray paint in a light misting fashion. Do not get too close, or you will displace the water and end up with an uneven line. Obviously, the paint will adhere to the paddle and not the water. This is after the first coat.

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5. Continue to lay on light coats until you have adequate coverage. I think I did 5 or 6 coats.

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6. Let paint dry completely. Then use a toothpick to remove the paint film that formed on top of the water.

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7. Use a the toothpick to rub gently along the paint line. It will free up any ragged pieces leaving a perfectly smooth line. The ragged pieces will simply float away.

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8. And the finished product!

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I'm really pleased with how it came out.

So, now for the mad scientist experiment that I went through to get to this point.

Initially, I did not want to paint the wheels for fear of making a mistake. So, I tried the same method described above using PlastiDip in Aluminum color. It worked OK, but the masking line was not as clean. I also found the color to be a bit too dark. Here is how that came out:

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On a positive note, it is a great way to "trial" the RSR look without the full commitment of paint. Since it wasn't what I was looking for, I just peeled it all off and started over again. Just make sure to lay it on thick enough, otherwise, the areas that get coated too lightly are difficult to peel as it breaks into small pieces and is a real PITA to get it off.

Well done, love the reverse method! They look great.

After my PlastiDip experiment, I did a comparison study using other colors recommended in another thread. Rustoleum Metallic Matte Nickel #7277 vs. Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403 vs. PlastiDip Aluminum.

I filled 3 plastic plant saucers with water and tested each of the paints for color and cleanliness of line

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I found that the Krylon paint "misted" better than the others. It also dried faster and separated from the side wall easier, leaving a clean line, and was "brighter" in color. ***Edit - Note: I just realized that the can of Krylon 1403 that I used is marked as "interior". In reviewing the older RSR finish threads, people who used this paint recommended using a clear coat over it.

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In order from front to back, Krylon, Rustoleum and PlastiDip


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VERY cool. I did the reverse for my finish...same idea though. Love the notion of water as the mask! [emoji97]


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Super cool method thanks for sharing.

Cool.

Hopefully your paint will stick well to the base black without scuffing prior to spraying.

Great job, Larry. What a clever way to do it.
Thanks for sharing,
Dave

this is AMAZING! wow

Blown away, I'll be trying this method and posting pics here when completed.

Great write up!

Well done.

Yup, good point! I should note that I wiped the whole wheel down with isopropyl alcohol. I also went over the black areas to be painted with a quick wipe of acetone. So, I'm pretty sure I got rid of any surface contaminants and the paint should stick ok. In any case, this was my test wheel. I still haven't done the other three, so I will evaluate this when I do the others.

My bigger concern - that I am just realizing now - is the Krylon can says "interior" on it. :eek: I will have to see if they make #1403 in an "exterior" version. It was one of the recommendations on another RSR finish thread. I was only focused on finding Krylon 1403.

So, I'm confident that the "water mask" process works well. I'm now less confident that Krylon 1403 is the correct paint to be using! ***Edit - I went back to review the older RSR threads that recommended using Krylon 1403. I noticed they also recommended using a clear coat (matte or satin) over it.

Very creative. Excellent work.

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Yep, you could scuff and clear after, or if you find a different, acceptable paint, you might be able to spray the whole wheel with an adhesion promoter prior to the water mask. I think either would work.

Regardless, it's good to see someone thinking outside the box a little bit.

What a great concept. Well done!
Just my own opinion on fast vs slow drying paints. For durability, I prefer slow drying which I finish off with a couple of hours under a hot work lamp.......but then again that would negate your "30 minute DIY".
If you want to finish off with a shiny lip, put the rim on the rear hub and run engine in 2nd gear at idle. Use 800 wet sand to remove paint followed by 2000 then alum polish on rag. Non-positraction cars will need to brace the other rear wheel with a 1"X1" wood piece between the studs and against the floor.
Cheers,
Johan

Thanks, guys. I appreciate your feedback! I feel like my efforts have been validated. I certainly didn't get that from my wife yesterday....She just had that WTF look on her face every time she walked through the garage. Admittedly, it looked like I was conducting some sort of Consumer Reports project. :D

On a serious note, if anyone has suggestions for the best paint to use, I'd appreciate your input. It's funny, but when I googled the Krylon 1403, I found links to other car forums (like the Camaro guys) that were using it too. So, maybe just clear coating is the answer(?). In any case, I'm pretty confident that my experiment using the water masking works well and has real potential. If I can find the perfect paint (right color, finish, durability, etc.) this may be winning combination.

Spray paint is a waste of time and money, it has no catalyst, it will never harden.

You can buy catalyzed clear in a spray can at the auto paint supply. Done.

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Talk about thinking outside the box... or throwing away the box.

Purchased two cans of Plasticoat Antique Gold to redo the silver to gelb. Masking a 7.5" Linea Corsa and found it virtually impossible to mask the black due to a trench between the inner and outer wheel. Was hoping this would be a solution but appreciated the conclusive test. However this will probably work with conventional paints.

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P.S. The wheels on this car were refinished using a rattle can with no clear and finish held up great for the 8 years I owned her, with no clear (catalyzed or other wise). But +1 on what my esteemed colleague from the great state of Washington said.

What an awesome idea!

Subscribed.

Hmm.... I don't totally agree..... at least here in Canada, which I'm sure is applicable in lots is US states, there are a number of spay paints that are really good. I've had great success with Rust Oleum and Tremclad- two coats within 2 hours, let dry over night, then heat lamp for 2 hours. Result is nice and durable. Most of my front undercarriage running gear is painted like this.
JMHO
Cheers,
Johan

Brilliant. I plan to do this soon.

excellent thread !

Brilliant!

If your gonna take the time to do something might as well do it right. Mixing different kinds of paint systems or applying a catalyst paint over a non hardening spray bomb only leads to failure, mainly lifting of the spray bomb base.

very nice may do the same with my Euro's

My local paint supply company will make up a rattle can with 2K paint but instead of 50% catalyst they use 5%. This gives the can a shelf life of 48hours if kept cool and the paint takes longer to harden after spraying. Need to wear a good mask as 2K paint is not nice stuff to breathe.

no paint (or any kind of vapour/dust) is nice to breathe. at least use those $3 tissue masks..., saves your lungs!
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Awesome project. I have been contemplating a set of Euromeisters, but really wanted RSR finish. This looks surprisingly simple.

I am so impressed - what a great approach!

Krylon Dull Aluminum 1403 is the bomb. It replicates a Cadmium finish and I've been using it on a '59 BMW R69 restoration for that very look.

Did you use a clear over the 1403 and how many coats?

Water. What an excellent idea. Thanks for sharing.

Subscribed. Awesome idea

What a great thread, makes me want to get an old wheel and try the water method. Thanks for the article, well done.

Excellent tips!!!

I just ordered some 2K rattle can paint from Eastwood. I will report back

First time I’ve seen this thread. How cool is that idea? :)

How do your wheels look after 3 years on the road?