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Engine Removed - What needs doing?
Hey ya'll. Just removed my 3.2 engine to clean it up/refresh it with a good scrub, new hoses and clamps, and to replace anything that looks past it's prime.
Now that it's out, what is recommended that I replace/refresh while I have easy access? I'm not hitting the machine/engine shop just yet, just wondering what gaskets/hoses/lines or other jobs that should be done now. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1502597189.jpg |
Replace fuel lines, inspect brake lines, check valve clearance.
My 2 cent. |
Mileage ?
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Mine is out but much older and with greater needs. So my non-engine list was extensive -replace shocks, repack cv joint, sound pad replacement...
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As mentioned, adjust valves, AND check for broken head studs while in there.
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Mileage is 130,000.
Valve job and studs already on the list. I got a gasket kit too. Any other gaskets need doing? Timing chain? |
there is something with the clutch fork or pivot for the fork that may need addressing. others will know, I just don't remember.
vacuum hoses rubber seal around engine. you want to isolate the lower engine as much as you can. sound deadening material? rear hood shocks? |
tell me about the two wheeled beast to the right of the car ....!
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I would suggest the oil thermostat o-ring and the oil pressure sender in the famous triangle of death. I replace that stuff anytime the engine is out. Ad of course the valve adjustment. Take a look at the clutch disk. If it has any wear, replace it now.
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Interesting engine platform...
1. Replace or remove the sound pad 2. Clean engine compartment 3. Clean gearbox 4. Remove shroud and repaint 5. Oil breather hoses back of engine 6. Triangle of death seals 7. Fuel filter 8. Repaint engine tins 9. Rear main seal 10. Front main seal 11. Valve adjustment made easy 12. Spark plugs 13. Clutch if past 50% worn out 14. Resurface flywheel if engagement is skippy I think I will stop there. |
[QUOTE=T77911S;9699224]there is something with the clutch fork or pivot for the fork that may need addressing. others will know, I just don't remember.
On your G50, there was an upgrade to the clutch fork bearing in late '88. Depending on when your car was built, it may already be in there. If not, it's an easy fix (if you use the version that does not require special boring of the fork shaft, like the factory did). Do a search and you will see. Also, the G50s came with a rubber spring set-up on the clutch. Check on that; at 130K, it could go at any time. Replace with regular metal spring centered clutch (NOT the rubber version, though it may not even be available). |
Bike looks like a Honda CB350 if mine eyes don't deceive...
Your engine pad isn't falling apart, but if I'm missing something, you might want to replace it with Cascade Audio's VB-TSM stuff to keep noise/heat at bay. This would be a good opportunity to replace the bushings on the inside of your trailing arms, as it is a pain to do with the engine in. If they haven't been done in 130k miles...well... Motor/transmission mounts, etc...Clean the ground strap...Clean, clean, clean... |
Pull off timing chain covers check chains and chain rails.
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All good info - will be starting a thread like this shortly - will be pulling the 3.0 out of mine and refreshing this fall/winter
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Check the gaskets between the intake manifolds and the heads.
Might also be a good time to send out the injectors for cleaning and new o-rings. |
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Fuel injectors need to be sent to a specialty shop for testing and cleaning . . . there are several
around the country . . . this is one of them used by some Pelican folks . . . WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services We sent ours out, but can't find the invoice for the service . . . the 3.8L race engine runs great ! Regards, |
Hi Adam ,how many miles on your car or engine?
Ivan |
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