Sway-A-Way adjustment

[AndreasK]

Hi! My car came with Sway-A-Way plates. I want to lower it about a 1/2 inch in the back. Is it really so simple, as to turn the one bolt? What keeps it from rattling losse when driving? Is it supposed to be done with the car on the ground or jacked up? Tried googling and could not find any definitive answers.

Also, whats the rubber cylinder thing around my bolt? (Sorry for all the dirt, I´ve just been driving a lot lately )

[Flojo]

lowering it by turning it out is right. you'll have to reajust camber.
the rubber imho has a bolt-protective purpose.

[Driven97]

For 1/2" I don't think you'll have to readjust camber. You'll gain a slight amount of negative but it's not going to be any different than if you had the back seat loaded with some cargo.

I'd jack the car up before turning to unload the bolt as much as possible. The large amount of compression force on that bolt likely keeps it from rattling loose, maybe some threadlock. Maybe double check there's not a locking nut or anything hidden under that sleeve.

Also, count the turns you do to lower it. Do the same on both sides. And write it down in case something goes wonky so you can return to a known good height.

[Elombard]

I would worry more about the toe change then the camber. Wont be much. but it does not take much. You can search around the site for directions on how to check the tow with strings. Find out where its at now and then make sure its the same after you lower.

Agree it would be about like having a load in the back seat.

I would un load the suspension (jack it up) before turning the adjuster but the sway away may be designed to turn with the suspension loaded.

[AndreasK]

Thanks guys!

The adjustment seems almost too easy, so I just had to check there wasnt a hidden trap in there somewhere. Also thanks for advise on alignment after. I´m at positive chamber now, so a bit more negative is ok

[Flojo]

looking at the picture, I would'nt lower it further. stance looks good, not just looks, but also thechnically.

rethink that idea.

[AndreasK]

Originally Posted by Flojo

looking at the picture, I would'nt lower it further. stance looks good, not just looks, but also thechnically.

rethink that idea.

Haha, Flojo. I´m going after your ride height I saw a pic of your car recently, sweet! Pick is not the best to show it, but front is perfect, rear is about 1/2 inch taller.

[Flojo]

well then, be careful with the wheelarch lip so it doesn't rub. or you'll have to roll it.

as you mention the stance on my SC: I had to reajust camber AND roll the lip (8x16 et11/225-50)

[AndreasK]

The car has fiberglass flairs (widened 77 911s) , and plenty of space

Edit; It was this low with 18"s when I got it.

[tobluforu]

Originally Posted by Elombard

I would worry more about the toe change then the camber. Wont be much. but it does not take much. You can search around the site for directions on how to check the tow with strings. Find out where its at now and then make sure its the same after you lower.

Agree it would be about like having a load in the back seat.

I would un load the suspension (jack it up) before turning the adjuster but the sway away may be designed to turn with the suspension loaded.

I have these plates and you can turn them while the car is loaded. I had my car shipped across the country and I had to raise it because it was low as heck and getting onto the trailer would have been a nightmare. God only knows what bumps the enclosed trailer went over, but when I went to lower it when I received the car, one of those adjusters was seized/jammed, whatever, but it would no longer budge. I tried everything, even tried to drill it out but its hardened steel, so I decided to leave it at that height since my auto-x days were officially over. My avatar is the height after the adjuster froze so you can only imagine how low my car was before.

[911pcars]

There's no provision on SAW spring plates for rotating the ride height screw with ease, just the friction between the screw and the female threads on the spring plate. If the threads are dry, attempting to rotate it with a load on it could cause the assembly to gall and freeze making adjustment even more difficult. Suggest unloading the rear suspension prior to rotating the set screw. That area should be prepped like any threaded-fastened joint. Some anti-seize on the threads will prevent further corrosion and make future adjustments easier. The rear weight on the spring plate will prevent the set screw from moving.

The rubber hose is a good idea for protection in corrosive environments. After final ride height adjustment, apply waterproof grease/anti-seize to the exposed threads, cut tubing to length, slice lengthwise, then install over the threads. A piece of flex tubing could be threaded onto the bottom end of the screw.

Sherwood