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ripped hard oilline?! ever seen? an idea?
edit: will get new oilline.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:26 PM.. |
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When I enlarged the bottom photo it looks like to me that the front of the bracket, the line had been creased and cracked. Possibly from the bracket(?). Compare it to the photo which shows the bracket being installed and it appears to be in the same location. Sorry you have take it apart but since you just out it in, it should not be anywhere close to a PITA as if it were original.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:22 PM.. |
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Could just be a manufacture flaw that finally gave up from continuous heating and cooling, vibration et. Hopefully you can remove it from theremostat without too much effort. At least you caught it close to home.
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Sorry Flo, I don't have the actual line in hand but in this photo, that little squiggly vertical line in front of where the bracket would be appears to be a crack. If that is not the case I apologize but it certainly looks that way in the photo.
What does that area look like after you have completely cleaned it and is the any oil residue on the inside of the line that may have traveled down the line because it is leaking from a different spot and is appearing in the location that you have photographed? After you have cleaned it thoroughly, with the bracket still removed, take your car for a short drive in your neighborhood to build some pressure in the oil and recheck it when you get back to see if that is the actual spot of the leak
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:22 PM.. |
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Quote:
It really looks like the oil line either moved along something, or vice-versa, and there was enough pressure to slightly crush it. Then, when whatever it was got to the bracket, it was stopped and the continued motion/pressure caused the line to depress further and crack. It could even be from a lift arm that was spread out to the edge of the pan that was up against the oil line and adjacent to the bracket. I would almost guarantee that is a crack that is oozing oil, under pressure.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip Last edited by ossiblue; 09-17-2017 at 06:51 AM.. |
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:22 PM.. |
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That can probably be soldered or brazed in place for a fix.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:22 PM.. |
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Glad you're going to be able to sort it out. Hopefully you won't have too much down time.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:23 PM.. |
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Oil line.
![]() ^^^^^ I agree, it is a pain a pill can't quite reach....... Especially if it is the upper line. Here's what I did about 20 years ago, and it has held. The concern with JB or Quicksteel is body flexing. Keep in mind that there is always oil pressure at the cooler input, and the oil flow back to the engine is active when the thermostat opens. There are several links on this site which addresses oil line removal. Good luck, pm me as needed.
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:23 PM.. |
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:23 PM.. |
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Don't use JB weld, fix it the right way. Take it off and braze it closed.
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Agree with the comments regarding JB, don't do it. Braze it, it will last a lot longer especially if you leave a little extra metal there afterwards and don't file all of the weld away
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit Last edited by Flojo; 09-19-2017 at 12:23 PM.. |
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Sleeve.
Quote:
Then cut out the damaged area plus about 2 inches on each end. Inserted/brazed a copper pipe/piece inside the oil line. And another on the outside of the oil line as shown. The copper replacement sizes are standard plumbing diameter. Prior to brazing, I re-installed the line for proper circular and horizontal axis alignments with the oil cooler and thermostat. Indexed/scribed replacement pieces/line, then removed/flushed /brazed, post braze re-flushed, and re-installed. I would suggest this approach or oil line replacement.
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1986 911 Targa. Per Road and Track magazine: Only in L.A.: In the window of a bar in Hermosa Beach, California. "Happy Hour prices during all car chases." Last edited by 86 911 Targa; 09-17-2017 at 03:29 PM.. |
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Repair
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1986 911 Targa. Per Road and Track magazine: Only in L.A.: In the window of a bar in Hermosa Beach, California. "Happy Hour prices during all car chases." |
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