removing rear axles...??
 

I'm guessing I just need to put an allen wrench on the CV joint bolts??
They aren't budging and I've used a hammer against the allen wrench... but I don't want to strip it down trying to get these off.

Anyone have some suggestions?? I'm guessing it is still counter clockwise to take them off??

Should I hit each bolt with some PB blaster??
What's the trick to get these axles off the transmission?
(This is a the last step I need to do before dropping my engine and trans)

They're simple socket head cap screws, should be straightforward removal. I strip a bolt head every once in a while, but usually can get them out with a pair of vice grips on the outside as a last resort.

Get quality vice-grips. Real ones. Standard nose, not long ones. Bust them loose and then replace on re-fit.

There is not a lot of torque on them, in theory.

Well.. following the Bentley manual... its the last step, but the axle turns when I try to move it.

Perhaps a PO used an impact wrench to put them on?

I've put an allen wrench on one of the bolts and used a hammer as hard as I could and still it won't budge.
I blasted them with some PB Blaster as I'm lost as to what to do now.
I guess I will keep trying each week... but was hoping to have it finished today. :(

Do you have a 6mm hex that you can use a ratchet on? Works like 10x better than a L-shaped allen wrench. (I think it's 6mm...)

https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon....XL._SX355_.jpg

Oh and set the e-brake to stop the wheels from spinning.

Carrera 3.2 CV bolts removal........
 

Recently replaced the torn CV boots of an '87 Carrera and I used an impact wrench to loosen the bolts. If you need to remove the half shafts for some service or maintenance, don't forget to loosen axle bolts. Replace old and worn out CV bolts.

Tony

Clean out the cap heads on those bolts real good. It will help you find good purchase and help avoid stripping. Use the ratchet.

First thing: be sure to loosen your axle bolt before raising the car to do the CV joint side. Park it in gear, use your parking brake, chock your wheels and get yourself a big breaker bar. That nut is torqued to 340ish lbs-ft on your car.

Use the socket Allen wrench like Matt suggested. You can put a lot more leverage on those as required.

As Tony said, get a pick or something to make sure that any crud inside the Allen head of the fastener is gone. It's gotta be super clean to ensure your Allen tool sits nice and tight against the bottom. With that thought in mind, it probably wouldn't hurt to tap your Allen socket in a bit with a hammer before turning to make sure the tool is seated firmly in the bolt.

Your axle shouldn't turn if it's in gear and your e-brake is on.

Get a good set of allen head sockets. They'll be your best friend when it comes to removing the axle shaft bolts.

bonus hint... put a screw driver in the rotor vents to secure your tightening or loosening effort. pinched the fuch out of a pinky finger learning this. beware.

Thanks... I'm not sure what you're talking about?? What nut is 340lb torqued?
I have about 8 or so bolts along the outside of the boot cover that attaches to the transmission.
I need to take the axles off the trans so that I can remove the transmission and engine.

Those allen head bolts are giving me a hard time... I've put an allen wrench in them and tried to turn them counter-clockwise using a heavy hammer to get them to break loose and they aren't budging.

According to the books I'm looking at... they should only be torqued to 40-60lb. or so... These bolts are too small to be torqued over 100lb.

e-brake is on... not sure about the gear, as I've already had the shift coupler removed to prepare to drop trans.

Thanks... I'll have to pick up that tool and see if that helps.
e-brake is on... but obviously putting enough muscle into it still turns it slowly.

They're just tight, probably been awhile since off. You gotta stop the axle/wheel from turning any way you can and apply torque safely. Maybe a great excuse to buy an impact wrench of some type. I went the harbor tool route since they're low cost and I already have a little compressed air. For as little as I need that tool, has worked great. Or just get that adapter above and a 3/8" breaker bar, I love mine.
I always look for someway to jam the tire from rotating, be creative.

He's talking about the nut that holds the hub, etc in place. That is a beaaatch to break loose.
One of the best tools in my garage in the impact wrench. Man do I love that wrench when the lugs nuts are frozen after a wonderful winter filled with snow, ice and salt. Comes in handy for other jobs as well. Might need to add a piece of pipe to get some leverage. I have been known to break loose a few nuts and bolts using a swift kick

Not sure why people are suggesting breaking the hub nut loose? The axle shaft should drop down once you take the allen bolts off the back side of the hub and off of the transmission flange.
If you're buying an allen head socket, get a hardened impact style. I rounded one when trying to loosen one of mine. I also found it helpful to put a block of wood under the tire to help secure it while breaking the bolts loose. A bit of penetrating oil wouldn't hurt as well.

Now if you plan to fully remove the axle assembly from the car you will need to remove the big nut from the axle end out at the wheel. At the tranny end its just the 6 or 8 hex end bolts. Tons of discussion on how to remove that nut safely, I've never had one fight me harder than my 1/2 beaker and 24" cheater pipe couldn't handle. Again, an impact wrench (mine is air) works super well on this specific task.

I use a 3/8" drive pneumatic impact with the aforementioned hex "socket". A battery powered will work too.

On other thing to note, if you can buy the longer version of that allen socket, get it and if you have an air impact along with an impact swivel you can lightly "bounce" the bolts with the impact. You just want to be careful you don't break one off in the axle or transmission flange.

What I did with mine when removing was rotate the wheel so I had easier access than trying to work my way around the axle.

Maybe clean and PB the exposed end of the bolts and take a wire brush to it.
With the wheel off I found if I used multiple extensions the impact gets absorbed and nothing happens. Using a long pipe did the trick on my 86.
Clean out the holes and tap the allen in nice and snug.

Don't hammer. Use additional leverage as others have said.

Check that you have 6 point allen bolts, many cars came with a 12 point.

Please take your time!!

If you think this is bad try removing the bolts after you strip the head.

Thanks all for your help... I finally got them off. How did I do it???
I bought the hex socket as suggested... and also bought a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter.
This allowed me to use my Gorilla Lug Nut Wrench with the extendable handle...
You were all right... it was tight but turned slow. Just stuck on there from all the gunk and road grime build up. It created a type of seal that made it difficult.

WOOT WOOT!!!
Now to do the hardest part.... actually dropping the engine.

The OP titled this thread, "Removing rear axles...??". So I made the assumption that he wanted to actually remove the rear axle and was having issues with the CVs. They're usually the least of most people's problems when taking the axle out, thus my suggestion regarding the axle nut because perhaps he hadn't gotten there yet.

Now with his last post, I realize he was just trying to get the CVs off the transmission so he could drop the engine. No axle removal required.

Cool!
Now just make sure you do a good once around to make sure you have everything unhooked before you start the drop. I know from experience that it sucks when you start dropping the engine and realize you still have some line connected. In my opinion, prep of disconnecting everything is harder than actually dropping the engine.

Good luck and be careful!

Two different types of CV joints.........
 

Cabmando,

Your assumption is correct if you are working on 100-mm CV's with a detachable stub axle. The axle (halfshaft) could be separated after the removal of the 8-mm CV bolts. However, the new larger 108-mm CV's with 10-mm CV bolts do not have detachable stub axle without undergoing some modification. This is the reason why you need to loosen stub axle nut to remove the CV shaft from the car. The change in CV from 100-mm to 108-mm started in '85 MY.

Tony

Thanks cabmando...
I've already noticed some linkage that needs to be moved, such as throttle linkage as well as the axles having to drop all the way down to clear them (I have them tied up right now to keep them from hanging down)

I'm also guessing I'll need to put my headers back on (as I took them off to gain access to removing everything).
I'm concerned that the engine weight would shift onto an exhaust bolt too much and snap them.

Pretty common to let the engine sit on the exhaust.

If your goal is an engine drop, read these posts

I have dropped my engine as well as a few others and have always left the heat exchangers on. I'm assuming you took the bolts loose at the transmission flange and left them attached to the hub flange. I normally just drop them altogether just to have them out of the way and they really don't go in all that hard.

You don't have to put your HE's back on but they help stabilize the engine. If you haven't looked into it, there's a thread here with some great advice on jacks or a platform you can make fairly easily for a floor jack to help drop the engine.

Boyt,
I'd have to check by my brother took the flanges and half shafts from my car (he owned the car first)because they were the larger 10mm bolts IIRC. He can drop his the same way I drop mine as I recall. I have helped him with a few engine drop and installs and don't recall doing anything any different than I do with my axle shafts.

Rear axle shafts and CV joints........
 

Cabmando,

The change in larger CV joints began in 1985 USA Model Year and some early production models ('85) had the earlier (100-mm) CV joints. See Bulletin #5 pages 118-119 (Catalog PNA-000-147). The OP's '87 Carrera 3.2 would have the bigger 108-mm CV joints.

Tony

Can someone confirm the torque for these bolts?

8mm flange bolts=30ft/lbs 10mm flange bolts=60ft/lbs

CV bolts recommended torque values..........
 

8-mm CV bolts..........................30 ft-lb.
10-mm CV bolts.........................60 ft-lb.

See page 420-21 (Bentley Carrera 3.2 shop manual).

Tony