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engine is out!!! thanks all!!

And so begins my journey of rebuilding begins...




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1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe
Old 10-06-2017, 02:50 PM
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Nice work! Have fun, as everyone else will tell you, it's a very slippery slope!

I pulled my 3 Liter to fix some oil leaks and ended up with a hot-rodded 3.2 short stroke!
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1976 911S Signature Edition - 3.2SSt (JE 98mm 9.5:1 pistons, 964 Cams, Carrillo Rods, ARP Head Studs, AASCO Valvetrain, 3.2 Carrera Manifold, ID725's, B&B Headers, TS HyperGate45 Gen V, TS RacePort, BW S360, AEM Infinity 506, E85)
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Old 10-06-2017, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '76 911S 3.0 View Post
Nice work! Have fun, as everyone else will tell you, it's a very slippery slope!

I pulled my 3 Liter to fix some oil leaks and ended up with a hot-rodded 3.2 short stroke!
I'm definitely staying with the 3.2.
But I already know that I'm going to spend more time cleaning up the engine bay and rear suspension parts.

For instance... how do I take out the rubber seal around the engine tins??
It looks warped and needs to be replaced.
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:01 PM
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83 911 Production Cab #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakrat View Post
... For instance... how do I take out the rubber seal around the engine tins??
It looks warped and needs to be replaced.
Just pull it out.

Get a new one, when you put the engine back, one flab below the tin and one above using you finger.
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83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger
Old 10-06-2017, 03:08 PM
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Nice work, congrats
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:09 PM
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Old 10-06-2017, 03:15 PM
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so... I followed the Bentley manual, but found it was missing some critical steps.
Page 101-6.. last picture shows the speed sensor... but apparently it needs to be removed too.
Page 101-5.. 2nd picture shows removal of cruise control cable... however you will need to pull on the linkage to give the cable slack.. otherwise you wont be able to remove the dust cover.
Page 101-6... 2nd picture shows removal of accelerator pull rod. You will need to remove the actual transmission brace with 13mm socket or this won't clear.(page 101-9, 2nd pic)
page 101-5... 1st picture shows multi-pin harness to be removed. I apparently either missed this or removed something else.

Also... I had to raise the 3 ton jacks to the very top.. plus add 2x4 underneath the jacks for extra clearance. I also had to put a hydraulic jack under 2 2x4 and lift up one side after adding the 2x4s to both sides under the jack stands. Because I was short about 1 inch to clear the engine (this was with my hydraulic table I bought from Harbor Freight).
You might not need this if you just get a 1000lb wooden furniture mover cart, as it will drop it more.

Also... the axles need special attention given to be cleared from the trans as it is dropped. It took some strategic movement to clear some linkage that the driver's side axle was getting caught up on..

Finally... it seemed the PO didn't put hoses back correctly as some hoses needed to be disconnected and reconnected as they criss-crossed onto themselves.
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Last edited by Trakrat; 10-06-2017 at 04:39 PM..
Old 10-06-2017, 03:58 PM
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Can we retitle this "Down the slippery slope I went"??

Good luck and glad you got it out of there!
Old 10-06-2017, 04:49 PM
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Have fun and enjoy the process .

Get ready to grow your tool collection... eBay is great.

Just bought a used Mac tools bore gauge for $50 shipped... Helluva deal...

You can buy nice micrometers reasonably too. Harbor freight also has really good micrometers. People laugh derisively at hf tools, but go on YouTube or online and look at the machinists doing reviews. They are surprised how accurate these tools are for the buck. Many machinist even admit these are their primary tools. The hf digital micrometer matched the Mitiyo to .0001...

Bo

Last edited by bpu699; 10-06-2017 at 06:21 PM..
Old 10-06-2017, 06:11 PM
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Nice job!

-Jake
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:22 PM
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Trakrat, did you do this solo?

Nice job!
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Old 10-07-2017, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by carreradpt View Post
Trakrat, did you do this solo?

Nice job!
I wouldn't really say 'solo'... as my fellow pelicans on here helped me out greatly.

I did need someone to hold a floor jack steady, as I put a couple 2x4s underneath it to give some additional lift height... but it got kind of wobbly, so was worried about it.
But yeah... my myself. Probably started a couple weeks ago... but I only have 1 day a week to work on it. If I got frustrated or confused about removing something, I stopped and consulted everyone here and did more research. Then went back to it later.
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
Have fun and enjoy the process .

Get ready to grow your tool collection... eBay is great.

Just bought a used Mac tools bore gauge for $50 shipped... Helluva deal...

You can buy nice micrometers reasonably too. Harbor freight also has really good micrometers. People laugh derisively at hf tools, but go on YouTube or online and look at the machinists doing reviews. They are surprised how accurate these tools are for the buck. Many machinist even admit these are their primary tools. The hf digital micrometer matched the Mitiyo to .0001...

Bo
It would be nice if someone made an 'engine rebuild tool list' of what and where to buy
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:18 AM
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whats the plan and reason for removal? Studs? valve guides?
Gonna leave the pistons in the cylinders? That was where i slipped and fell down the slope.
i got nervous once i accidentally pulled them out of the cylinders and learned what alusil was.
This journey will be one you look back on fondly.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by pampadori View Post
whats the plan and reason for removal? Studs? valve guides?
Gonna leave the pistons in the cylinders? That was where i slipped and fell down the slope.
i got nervous once i accidentally pulled them out of the cylinders and learned what alusil was.
This journey will be one you look back on fondly.
I took the engine out cause it may have spun a bearing or two... and/or floated the valves.

My next step is to remove the transmission from the engine.. researching that now.

Clean, clean, and clean some more apparently. This thing is FILTHY.

Then to start disassembling everything to ship it to Ollie's. Get everything cleaned and bead blasted. and have them check for any damage, measurements, etc... and see what needs to be replaced or repaired.
I would have no idea what I'm looking at and would need a machine shop I can trust to tell me what to do.

I'm fine with keeping the engine a 3.2 but adding in possibly some titanium springs, raceware studs all around and other stronger components to allow the engine to handle redline abuse.

We'll see what Ollie's recommends.

OF course... I've already started with the "While the engine's out..." which means completely cleaning and detailing the engine bay and refreshing the rear suspension.
My goal is to get the rear end of the car like brand new... and work my way forward.
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakrat View Post
I'm fine with keeping the engine a 3.2 but adding in possibly some titanium springs, raceware studs all around and other stronger components to allow the engine to handle redline abuse.
Outstanding work.

I know you are doing research. If you want to make it a "spinner" drop the coin on balancing and high end rod bolts.

Consider boat tailing and knife edging.

Might as well get Carrillo rods.

Then it needs to breathe better.

Cripes, too fast. Now you need to stop better.

You are a young man. Just rape your 401k. Hell, the market's good.

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Old 10-07-2017, 12:32 PM
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