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The drain plug that would't let go...

In the process of getting ready to drop the engine and was draining the oil. Plug on the oil tank would not budge. Socket just rounded the bolt, crescent wrenches and channel locks the same, even a pipe wrench simply took the metal off the head like butter. Wanted to weld on a big nut to use a breaker bar but was worried about potentially igniting the oil in the tank. Didn't want to use an extractor for fear of breaking the bit off. My next pass was going to be drilling it out, but a buddy came over convinced he could get it done. Well, he did. The tools used...propane torch for a little heat, candle wax, and a punch, together with a dose of persistence. I think the wax was key. Hope this helps someone else down the road.

Old 10-11-2017, 11:47 AM
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Candle wax is amazing for what it can do.

How long has it been since the oil was changed on your 911? I change mine every 12 months. And I can't imaging how it could be so difficult to remove unless someone put it on with no sealing ring and just super tight. Glad ya got it off.
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:03 PM
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I'll bite...what did he use the candle wax for?
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by universeman View Post
I'll bite...what did he use the candle wax for?
Once you have heated up the bolt flange area, you simply touch a candle to the junction where the bolt and female flange meet. The candle was gets wicked into the threads and lubricates them.
Its actually quite amazing...works on a similar principle to sweating copper pipes.

Last edited by 997at; 10-11-2017 at 12:32 PM..
Old 10-11-2017, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH85Carrera View Post
Candle wax is amazing for what it can do.

How long has it been since the oil was changed on your 911? I change mine every 12 months. And I can't imaging how it could be so difficult to remove unless someone put it on with no sealing ring and just super tight. Glad ya got it off.
It had been 2 years and 3K miles since the last oil change, and I don't recall the plug being cranked on. Aluminum washer was in place. I'll be a little more gentle going forwards and also commit to a 12 month oil change interval as well.
Old 10-11-2017, 12:31 PM
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beat me to it -- fascinating concept

only thing I have to add is -- Remember that the wax will tend to flow to the heat source, so heat the bottom threads the most.
Old 10-11-2017, 12:32 PM
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I wouldn't be concerned about using a torch to weld a large nut on. I have done this a couple of times on "normal" cars. Not a worry, if you are using a mig or tig.
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:41 PM
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Cool...I think people wayyy over torque these bolts in general, they're not under any strain whatsoever and they just need to be tight enough to keep from dripping (hence the crush washer which helps with that)

Snug it up and go, then tighten only if it drips!

I put one of those Fumoto valves on my oil tank, I know how much everyone hates on them but it does make oil changes much easier and is high enough behind the wheel that I'm not worried about it getting opened accidentally (which takes a special push/turn combo anyway)
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:30 PM
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What about these?
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:57 PM
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When I bought my 911 it had no history. My drain plug wasn't stripped, but it wouldn't budge even with heat and a cheater bar. I was using so much force I was actually worried I would damage the tank.

I ended up taking a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, and carefully carving into the seam between the washer and the drain plug. That broke it loose and it just spun off. Had to get a new drain plug though.

Mark
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
What about these?
These actually do work - and they work well. Some joker put a drain plug on with a impact gun on my Volvo - seriously. Not only did it fry the drain plug washer and threaded it into the pan itself, but rounded it. I put one of these on and really cranked on it with a pipe. It worked.
Old 10-11-2017, 08:11 PM
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Two of my cars, Chryslers, have 22mm nuts welded on to the drain plugs. The genius engineers use a 13mm hex with a 20mm threaded plug, duoh.
They must have used an impact to tighten them at the dealers. Now with that I can use a 22mm hex, no problem.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:02 PM
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After a new crush washer leaked on my wife's Subaru, causing me to have to toss 5 quarts of new synthetic, I finally bought one of those Fumitomo drain valves for it.

Mark
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:39 AM
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With a clean drain pan, should have just dumped it right back into the engine.
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Old 10-13-2017, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
With a clean drain pan, should have just dumped it right back into the engine.
That's what I used to do with my MG.

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Old 10-13-2017, 09:50 AM
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