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Though as Kevin points out our air is clean, it is also dusty... and it also rains a lot... so I picked up an almost new set of the PMO rain hats and filters from a fellow pelican. These have pedigree, as they were once mounted on an engine by Henry Schmidt for testing purposes. But I digress... ;) I was inspired by the adapter plates that Closed Course Motorsport sells. There are just two things I wanted to do differently then Clay does: 1) I wanted to get as close to the same runner length as I have with the trumpets included in Al's kit (the black trumpets in my photos), and 2) I didn't want to go from a round bore, to an oval, back to round, and back to oval again. So I designed my own adapter plates in stainless and welded some lengths of pipe to them. The ID is the same as the ITBs, and with regard to runner length it is less then 1cm shorter total then the black trumpets. The silicone hose that Al includes fit perfectly over the pipes, and I used some nice stainless clamps to secure these to the ITB's. The pipe sits flush on the top of each TB, so I have as smooth a transition as possible the whole way. The short chrome trumpets are Empi, I got them off a VW guy on ebay. The assemblies are a bit heavy, but compared to CIS and A/C which I removed, I'm still ahead. Pretty happy with the results and they just fit under the decklid. Happy to answer questions. Pics: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528299099.JPG |
That is an excellent solution. I have a triumph based itb kit from X-Faktory and had similar thoughts about Clay’s kit. I’ll probably model whatever I do based on yours. But I’ll likely try aluminum or FG. Fortunately for me, I have quite some time before I am close to ready for the itbs at all let alone the filters.
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Nice work Evan........
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As Al says Evan: NICE[emoji106][emoji2][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Looks good Evan
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Evan, please be sure that there is nothing inside the filter elements that can come loose and find its way into an intake port. Many years ago my shop built a 1.8 liter 914/4 for me to drive in SCCA E/P. We thought we had everything ready to go for a 3-hour SCCA Enduro at Willow Springs Raceway in CA.
Unfortunately, at about the 2 hour 15 minute mark we had an air filter fastener work loose (yes, the 4 cyl engine vibrates more than a six) and find it's way into a combustion chamber, which sadly ended our day - after building about a 10 minute lead in the race. Major bummer! BTW; beautiful solution to the filter problem! |
Thanks for the nice words everyone!
Now for the big news: ITS ALIVE! First start: <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vXSh49BTnu8" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe> A few hurdles: the usual wiring for EDIS and a coil pack turned out to be wrong in my case. Absolute mystery. EDIS should trigger from pins 10-12-11 to coil pack pins 1-3-2 and fire the coils A-C-B. Mine, with correct wiring fired C-B-A. With that sorted it fired right up! Suspecting an oddball coil pack issue, but for now I'm just happy it is running. Then I discovered a broken valve spring... which had been fine when I adjusted valves with the motor out, so it broke sometime after first startup. Luckily our x-Faktory guru graciously loaned me his valve spring tools and sourced me some springs, so I am back in business. I'll go deeper into a refresh of these and maybe the whole motor next winter, right now I am going to get it on the road. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1528468864.jpg Adjusting the throttle linkage was also a major ordeal, surprisingly, but I won't bore you with that now. Lots of tuning to do... |
^^^^^. HAHA, love that feeling!! That laugh
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Subscibed
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What were the symptoms of the broken valve spring? |
Congratulations. Enjoy following your progress
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Next time I have the motor out I'll replace all the springs at once... or build a new motor. :) |
Finally got around to catching up on this thread and read the whole thing from beginning to end. Of particular interest to me because I'm in the middle of a 915 build myself (complete with shorter gears similar to Evan). It's a great thread!!!
The story seems to have no ending, however? I hope nothing went drastically wrong.... Or, like Canada, you are buried under a metre or two of snow? |
Evan,
when can we expect an update on the project? |
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Hi everyone! Sorry for the lack of updates. A tip: when people say that tuning EFI is challenging, you should believe them. I got so buried in getting the car running and driveable, and fixing small issues, that summer 2019 came and went and I never got back to updating the thread. But now I'm back! The short version: all my hard work paid off. I have a gearbox that functions very nicely, and the shorter gears from Guard really make the car lively. They do whine a bit-- Matt at Guard warned me about this so I expected it. ITBs were definitely worth the investment. More on this later. So let's start getting this thread up to date. In an earlier post I wrote about coil pack issues I encountered, and I want to elaborate a bit on that in case it can help someone else later on. Most of the Megasquirt schematics out there showing how to wire EDIS show that it should trigger from pins 10-12-11 to coil pack pins 1-3-2 and fire the coils A-C-B. Like this... but this was definitely incorrect for my setup: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590155533.jpg After much trial and error, I figured out that my coil pack needed +12V on pin 1, with EDIS pins 10-11-12 connected to coil pack pins 2-3-4. Remember that EDIS triggers pins in the order 10-12-11, thereby giving me the A-C-B firing order. You could rearrange this to suit your situation of course, but my plug wires were already at their final lengths, so I went with this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590155748.png After much research I also learned the following: 1) There are two orientations for the connectors on EDIS coil packs, one that sticks straight out the side of the pack, and one that turns 90 degrees. I have the first one of these, but the pinout is the same either way. BUT: even though the connector pinout is the same on both, the second one with the 90 degree connector is flipped, meaning A-B-C are the other way around. Just to test this I also purchased the other type of coil pack, and wired as shown it works: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590155932.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590155932.jpg This is the connector, here you see which is pin 4. Same pinout for both coil packs, but the usual Megasquirt wiring diagrams for EDIS were not correct in my case. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590155932.jpg And finally, a trick for finding out which the power pin is on your coil pack. Measure resistance between the pins. All the coils should show about 1.4 KOhms between them, the power pin will show about 0.8 KOhms between it and the coils: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590156714.jpg So, that was today's geeky update... I went through a lot of frustration with this to figure it out, so I hope someone else reading this will find it useful. More posts soon! |
Edis
Evan,
And to others that are interested in The EDIS ignition. I am now using the coil pack supplied by DiyAutotune.......works very well and eliminates the Ford coil pinout confusion. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590160475.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590160475.JPG regards, al |
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